- Jan 26, 2013
- 3
- 8
- 62
Add 100 Degree Water To The Needed Level And Allow It To Settle( Quit Swirling And Calm Down)
100 F is 40 C for the rest of the world.
100 F is 40 C for the rest of the world.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Many Folks Are Having Eggs Go Overdue For Hatch And Wondering If They Are Duds, Late, Or Have Had Some Sort Of Fetal Demise.... The Float Test Is Simple Yet Effect Way Of Checking Egg Viability.
I Normally Give Eggs A Full 24 Hrs Overdue Before Float Testing. It Works On All Bird Eggs- Period! Takes Very Little Equipment Or Time To Do And Is Easy To Perform.
Start With A Bowl Of Sufficient Depth To Allow The Eggs Your Testing To Float Freely Or Sink. Add 100 Degree Water To The Needed Level And Allow It To Settle( Quit Swirling And Calm Down)
Once Settled Take The Egg Or Eggs To Be Tested And Gently Lower Them Into The Water With As Little Disturbance As Possible. You May Need To Wait A Few Minutes For The Water To Settle Again After Adding Egg/ Eggs. Then Just Watch....
Eggs Are Judged By Observation With Results As Follows:
1. Sinker= Dud, Never Developed
2. High Floater (like A Fishing Bobber Without Weights) Say 45% Or More Of The Egg Above The Water Line= Dud, No Development Or Fetal Demise, Likely Rupture Of Internal Membranes Causing The Egg To Dehydrate.
3. Low Floater= Viable Egg, Development Full Term
4. Low Floater Rockin And Rollin! This Is The Live Embryo Moving Inside The Egg= Definate Viable Egg!
Once Test Results Complete Take Viable Eggs And Gently Pat Dry And Replace In Hatcher. Duds Are Best Discarded At This Time.
It Should Be Noted All Eggs Warrant Close Inspection Prior To Float Testing--- Any Pips In The Shell? Do Not Float Test! If The Shell Is Broken, Pipped Or Cracked In Any Way Water May Enter And Drown The Chick Inside
This Test Works Off Of Air Cell Development With Embryo Growth. Infertile Eggs Will Have An Underdeveloped Or Absent Air Cell That Isnt Large Enough To Float The Egg....thus The Sinkers. Ruptured Membranes Will Allow The Egg To Dehydrate.... Thus The High Floater. Proper Development Of The Embryo Will Cause The Air Cell To Develope To The Point Where Viable Eggs Will Float With Approximately 10-15% Of The Egg Above The Water Line--- These Are The Viable Eggs. Obvious Movement Of The Egg Shows Signs Of Life For The Chick Within. Works On All Bird Eggs From Hummingbirds To Ostriches![]()
If so, very confusing language because I don't consider that a dud.
100F is 37.77C not 40CAdd 100 Degree Water To The Needed Level And Allow It To Settle( Quit Swirling And Calm Down)
100 F is 40 C for the rest of the world.
Has anyone done the float test on overdue eggs and saw slight movement and then had them hatch?
I had 5 coturnix Quail eggs left at day 21 (nearly 22), my other 9 eggs have hatched, the last hatchings were 2 days ago. I hate the idea of disposing of eggs that have live chicks in them. I did the float test and I'm pretty sure 4 of them had light movements, they floated a little above the surface. One floated very high and was also significantly lighter than the others, quite certain that one is mostly air. I'm wondering if anyone has had coturnix quail hatch later than day 21?
Candle the remaining eggs. A live egg will be full under the air cell and have a red tinge to it. A dead egg will have a watery layer between the air cell and the dead chick and the dead chick will sink towards the narrow end of the egg.. It will also look very black.
If they haven't pipped internally will that kill them?Day 22 seems very late. I'd carefully break them open at the fat end and see what's going on.
If they haven't pipped internally will that kill them?![]()