Flock murdered, WARNING GRAPHIC PHOTOS!!!!!

[123RedBeard]

I highly doubt a weasel would/could pull a chicken that far through the fence ... more than likely a raccoon ...

Yes, you can hook/wire the hardware cloth to the existing fence, I wouldn't waste the time or energy with the barbed wire, as most predators can easily fit between the barbs, unless you have bears ...

 

[Mossy Dell]

I would attach heavier wire, like 1/2" by 1" welded wire. I would attach it to the outside of the wire. At the very bottom, instead of digging down, you can lay a piece of wire on the ground and attach it securely to the bottom of the fence and pin it against the ground. It helps if you can mow really short, kill the vegetation for a while, or even rototill the strip. You don't want wire catching your mower. This time of year, you can probably smash or walk the wire down on top of the ground and put bricks, blocks, or rocks on it. In spring, vegetation will cover it. Sowing some clover helps.

Digging predators don't think to back up a foot or two. Buried wire works but is more labor and it will rust faster underground.

 

[aart]

I had thought about doing this in the past, but haven't had any incidents until a few weeks ago, so I put it off.

Bummer! Sorry for your losses.

I cannot find ANY threads or ANY online (not BYC) posts that show exactly how to do so.

There are tons of them, but all are different because all set ups are different.
Here's decent basic guide:
http://www.poultrydvm.com/featured-infographic/tips-for-protecting-poultry-from-predators

Pics of your coop and run will garner more specific suggestions.

 

[50-45-1]

I leave the pop door open. I have always trained my hens to put themselves in the coop at dusk.

my chickens naturally go to roost at dusk. most do.
i lock the Poop door after they are all in.
if you do not want to go out and open and close them each day, there are automatic closing door that some folks have good luck with. other dont have such good luck as it malfunctions, closes before the chickens are in locking them out, stays open to late and allows the preditor in.....
if you want to secure the run, i would agree hardware cloth is the way to go. i would dig it down in the ground a good foot and then have it bend out like L shape another foot. it must go all the way around the run including over the top. racoons rats and weasels can climb to name a few, and if you only go 4 feet they just climb over it.
this is a lot of work to secure this run. and since most predator attacks happen at night time, securing the coop is less labor intensive and cheaper.

 

[ducks4you]

Here is a picture from earlier this Fall, Page 16 of the thread, post #160, to give you an idea of my setup. I am out of state, but will be happy to take any more pictures, if you would like to see them.
https://www.theeasygarden.com/threads/ducks-ragtag-2019-gardening.22808/page-16

 

[ducks4you]

Ok, This link tells me what materials to use and a few photos of how to affix it to my dog panels. I only know this bc I have done it before. A newbie would be lost.
I also know that the dog fencing gate is difficult for a raccoon, and I have always used a chain with two snaps, one on the gate and the other on the fencing. I have to use smart locks bc I have owned several horses, now and in the past, that were escape artists.
How do I keep the hardware cloth on the ceiling from collapsing down?
How do I secure the gate?
Should I build out a weasel proof entrance beyond the gate?...maybe 2 ft deep, 6 ft high, 32 inches wide, with a buried hardware cloth floor?

 

[aart]

1. How do I keep the hardware cloth on the ceiling from collapsing down?
2. How do I secure the gate?
3. Should I build out a weasel proof entrance beyond the gate?...maybe 2 ft deep, 6 ft high, 32 inches wide, with a buried hardware cloth floor?

1. Rafters to support it...and the snow it will hold.
2. HC on gate, concrete threshold under gate, close gaps around gate with wood like a door stop.
3. No, that's just another thing to enclose.

For now, have someone close the coop door until you get back in town??

Oh, and think about anti dig aprons:
Good examples of anti-dig apron installation.
If rodents are prolific, burying the apron ~12" would be good.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/wire-around-coop.1110498/#post-17093528
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/new-coop-project.1169916/page-2#post-18481208

 

[hayley3]

Some of them look like they were mauled by a canine. A raccoon would just eat the neck if it got it that far through the fence. But really what matters now is prevention for whatever it was.
I know it's heartbreaking...I came home to a similar scene in the same month..November.

 

[RoosterML]

Sorry for your loss.
Electric fence, electric fence, did I mention electric fence.

 

[ducks4you]

@aart , Thanks! I have 8 ft 4 x 4's to support the bird netting buried in the run. I imagine that I could dig down and support each of them like you do when you build (horse) jump uprights. Note: the bases look like a pinwheel, scroll down.
https://www.saddlebox.net/building-your-own-horse-jumps-part-one/
I could buy a few more for verticals and attach horizontal pieces to them to support the new roofing.
If I bury hardware cloth underneath the gate and make room on top for cement, do you think some 16 x 16 in pavers would work?
I really want to put cement all along right below the fencing.
My 5 acre property used to be part of a 100yo working farm. The "tool shed" used to be a chicken house. There is even an inside door with 1/2 inch hardware cloth, and the 4 windows have hardware cloth, with the windows that tip in for summer and push back for winter.
(I will add pictures soon.)
I have closed the pop door...but the "horses are gone after the barn door is closed", so to speak. NO chickens until the Spring.
Any other thoughts?