Flushes for aiding in toxin removal

Please don't syringe these flushes as most owners aren't experienced in doing this and can cause great harm getting fluids into the birds lungs. Just allow them to drink it.
I was using a baby nose bugger asperator, then I read this. Switched to a bowl and added some peas to excite them. My girls did fine but my drake is really out of it. What is the proper way to syringe if I have to???
 
Anything liquid? this is the info on how to administer
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

What toxin do you think they got into?
I cut up my avocado tree, had cuttings in a bucket. They drank from it so that could be it? I also dug up the yard, raking up God knows what? They follow me knowing I reveal the bug fest, could have been something bad?? Tina Turner started yesterday, she's the best hunter. She was just laying down after I filled all the water bowls and pool. Then Tyrone my drake was dragging feet coming in last night. I should have known last night. This morning all 3 were lame.
 
Yes you can do it that way too just not everyone knows it has to be done slowly and will shoot liquid straight into their mouths and then they aspirate. Doing it according to the info in the link I gave you is to me easier since you can get more into them at one time. When doing a flush is important so the flush works faster. Especially if they aren't drinking on their own. They have to be able to still hold their heads up though so the liquid goes down into their crop and not their lungs.
 
Yes you can do it that way too just not everyone knows it has to be done slowly and will shoot liquid straight into their mouths and then they aspirate. Doing it according to the info in the link I gave you is to me easier since you can get more into them at one time. When doing a flush is important so the flush works faster. Especially if they aren't drinking on their own. They have to be able to still hold their heads up though so the liquid goes down into their crop and not their lungs.
That’s exactly the reason you should use a syringe with the technique in the link.

From my own expierience if a bird is sick enough to need medicine or a flush 50% of the time they’re at the point where they aren’t drinking or eating on their own anyway, and many birds refuse to drink medicated water on their own even if they are still drinking.
 
The biggest issue with using a syringe is inexperience. If you’re not used to it and doubt yourself to much you’re more likely to make a mistake.

Truthfully syringe feeding isn’t that difficult if done right.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

The tricky part is getting the bird in the right position.
#1 If you have a more easy going bird you can back them into a corner.
#2 If it’s a more difficult bird you’ll have to grab a hold of them and squat over their back, DONT sit on them, just squat low enough that you have them pinned between your legs and body.

Whichever way you end up doing this the next thing you do is wrap one hand around their bill and apply pressure to the corners of their mouth, when they start to open wrap your hand around their upper jaw, a goose can bite you very easily like this. Then insert the syringe as shown in the link.
The faster you do all this the easier it is and less stressful for your bird.

Tip: with geese I’ve found that a larger syringe makes it A LOT EASIER.
3ml to 6ml syringes are smaller and trickier to maneuver into the back of the throat easily, I’ve had one almost go down my gander’s throat once.
12 ml syringes are much easier to use with larger birds.

For a duck a 6ml syringe is just fine.
 
information for treatments read online should always be researched for yourself. It is always best to consult an avian vet when dealing with illness in geese. The information below is how WE dose and use the flushes here on our farm.


Flushes**

Epsom Salt Flush:
3 Tsp. Epsom Salts.
1 ½ Cups water
¼ – ½ gram vitamin and electrolyte powder * Optional
2 – 3 times a day for 3 days or until a full recovery is made.


Molasses Flush:
1 cup Molasses
2 ½ gallons water
5 – 6 grams vitamin and electrolyte powder * Optional
! !Do not exceed 8 hours ! ! After 8 hours replace Molasses flush with vitamin and electrolyte water


Activated Charcoal Slurry
1 tsp. Activated Charcoal Powder
8 oz. – Pure Water
Dose 6 – 8 times daily

**These flushes will cause slight to moderate dehydration as they work to expel toxins and foreign matter from your birds system. After giving a flush, offer a steady supply of vitamin and electrolyte fortified water until a full recovery is made.

we prefer to use steamed oats (quacker like humans eat) and mashed egg when a bird is ill. Isolated into a dog kennel, covered to keep darker and quiet and keeping stress to a minimum.
Mine seem to be more stressed/depressed when separated from the flock, it's tough :) I worry sometimes, depending on which duck it is if separating makes it worse because of how much they dislike it. I want to try the charcoal flush but my drake isn't drinking much and if it can cause dehydration I'm not sure I would do it. What about adding powder from a few capsules to the drinking water so whatever he does drink will have some in it but maybe not so much he'd get dehydrated?
I tried electrolyte water on its own and he doesn't touch it.
I have molasses, I might try that.
Also, if this dosage is for geese, would it be less for a duck? My drake is a 4 month old Pekin.
 

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