For the MINIMALISTS - those who think less is more in chicken keeping - Please help

[RoyalChick]

So I need to switch my feed in the winter? Why is it contraindicated to give layer feed in the winter?


Is there a way to check to see if HPAI is big in my area? RoyalChick, if you're watching this thread, can you comment since in your in NJ, also?

There are very few cases of HPAI reported in NJ. Most of those have been ducks at Cape May.
I suspect NJ is not testing much. I just don’t find it credible that there are cases in all the states around us but barely any in NJ.
I take some precautions but mainly just hope for the best.
A quick tip fir BYC - to tag someone put @ in front of their user name and they will get notified. I just came across you question catching up on your thread because it took longer for me to see it.

 

[sdm111]

I've been feeding gamefowl hens and cocks layer pellets for decades with no apparent I'll effect. The cocks live a healthy long life. People can make it as difficult as they want but at the end of the day a chicken is still just a chicken.
Starter to layer.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

Since we were discussing it, I wanted to include some info about Apple Cider Vinegar (with mother) for chickens:

- Helps control Coccidiosis
- Promotes digestive health by providing probiotics
- Boosts immune function
- Great in plastic waterers to prevent green algae build up that happens in the summer months, helping to keep waterers clean
- Introduces beneficial bacteria
- Lowers the pH of the digestive tract which will make the environment less welcoming to pathogens and, therefore, reduce common infections and increase resistance to disease, preventing worms, mites and lice
- Reduces intestinal and fecal odor
- Helps break down minerals and fats
- Assists the animal to assimilate protein
- Assists the animal to convert food better

Can be given from when they are chicks through oldies

Don’t use apple cider vinegar in a metal waterer, as it can react to certain metals specifically galvanized metals and cause them to leech zinc into the water which is toxic to birds. It is best to use a plastic waterer when adding apple cider vinegar to your flocks drinking water.

The ration is 1 tablespoon per gallon or 2 1/2 cups per 55 gallon barrel

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

I've been feeding gamefowl hens and cocks layer pellets for decades with no apparent I'll effect. The cocks live a healthy long life. People can make it as difficult as they want but at the end of the day a chicken is still just a chicken.
Starter to layer.

Different things work for different folks. Thanks for chiming in, sdm

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

There are very few cases of HPAI reported in NJ. Most of those have been ducks at Cape May.
I suspect NJ is not testing much. I just don’t find it credible that there are cases in all the states around us but barely any in NJ.
I take some precautions but mainly just hope for the best.
A quick tip fir BYC - to tag someone put @ in front of their user name and they will get notified. I just came across you question catching up on your thread because it took longer for me to see it.

Great, thanks for the info regarding HPAI.

Yes, I know this @RoyalChick. I had a dumb dumb moment. Thanks for the reminder

 

[3KillerBs]

Since we were discussing it, I wanted to include some info about Apple Cider Vinegar (with mother) for chickens:

- Helps control Coccidiosis
- Promotes digestive health by providing probiotics
- Boosts immune function
- Great in plastic waterers to prevent green algae build up that happens in the summer months, helping to keep waterers clean
- Introduces beneficial bacteria
- Lowers the pH of the digestive tract which will make the environment less welcoming to pathogens and, therefore, reduce common infections and increase resistance to disease, preventing worms, mites and lice
- Reduces intestinal and fecal odor
- Helps break down minerals and fats
- Assists the animal to assimilate protein
- Assists the animal to convert food better

Can be given from when they are chicks through oldies

Don’t use apple cider vinegar in a metal waterer, as it can react to certain metals specifically galvanized metals and cause them to leech zinc into the water which is toxic to birds. It is best to use a plastic waterer when adding apple cider vinegar to your flocks drinking water.

The ration is 1 tablespoon per gallon or 2 1/2 cups per 55 gallon barrel

Personally, I never give my chickens any additive to their water -- not even electrolytes during blistering heat -- without also offering a supply of pure, unadulterated water as well.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

Here's some photos of our coop on the areas we modified.

Doubled it: 2 of them, mirror images. I have removable dividers in the middle of run/coop for when I need to separate groups (like with new chicks last fall). We also put the run doors on front instead of sides. Used solid metal roof instead of clear/polycarbonate because we don't have any natural shade and would get too hot here for clear roof.
View attachment 3466083

It looks really nice! It's great that you can separate your new additions.

You might be able to make out the small pieces of wood along the studs. Those rotate to hold in place winterizing panels (not shown) I made out of 1x2s and clear vinyl.

I'm not sure where you're located but do you find it's too "open" in the winter. There's a lot of ventilation. I wonder if it's too much when it gets cold out. I guess you felt like you needed the winterizing panels...

Moved pop-door (since we moved the front door). Added Omlet autodoors. Did not add the full length roost bar in the run. Instead added branches in the corners.
View attachment 3466088

I was wondering if we need a closing door. Is there a problem just leaving it open for them to come and go as they please?

No ceiling panels - just open to the metal roof. Instead closed off gaps with HWC.
View attachment 3466091

This would have been a better idea than the roof panels so nothing could potentially get in. I thought the whole structure had hardware cloth until we assembled the ceiling panels and by then it was too late to make adjustments. I don't want to take everything apart. Nice job!

Added clean out doors to the back of henhouse. I only open these when I'm doing a deep clean and removing all the coop bedding. However, I have not been through the heat of the summer with this coop yet, and I might swap out these solid doors for "screen" doors made with HWC to help keep it from getting too hot. TBD on that.
View attachment 3466094

Again, great idea. You can access it through the inside and outside. I like that.

Swapped out the 2x2 nesting boxes for cat litter boxes. Also added trim on egg doors to help with drafts. View from inside coop:
View attachment 3466098
View from outside, looking into egg door:
View attachment 3466100

I think we've got a rough plan for the nest boxes. The litter boxes are a good alternative in case it doesn't work out. And we wouldn't have to take apart and put back together.

Adjusted henhouse roost (shorter length - it's just under 7'), added poop tray and a ladder up to the tray (for one of my older hens who can't jump).
View attachment 3466108

I might have to do a little ladder, also. Our pop door has a 12" drop because we're modifying for deep bedding. The ladder would have to be directly on the inside of the coop so they can get down when the bedding is low. Would it be bad for the wood on the legs of the ladder to sit in the deep bedding while the layers keep getting higher? I wonder if it would warp and decay.

Someone mentioned that I probably don't need a poop board. Are you glad you added it?

Built a wind break in the run out of leftover scrap siding/lumber. Behind this panel is one of their favorite hang out/nap spots. It's not anchored to anything in the ground - just attached to the underside of the henhouse.
View attachment 3466104

I love this! Such a great idea! A little "me" time for the ladies.

Hope that helps! I loved these plans (I've posted on here before about how great they were - for anyone else following along, the plans are from this website: https://www.thegardencoop.com/). The only thing I disagree with in the plans is the # of hens it can support. I would not put more than 7 or 8 in one (I have 14 because mine is doubled, but I feel like any more than that would be too crowded unless they were free ranging all day, EVERY day).

This is good to know. We were discussing getting one more in the future to make 6 so we'd still be okay. I love that you put the two together. You did a nice job.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

By “enough”, do you mean to keep the chickens out of that space? If so, definitely. I used some landscape fabric to block it off bc it’s what I had at the moment I decided I was fed up with them pooping on everything up there, and it worked fine until it warmed up and I was able to remove the boxes entirely.

Thanks for confirming the storage space would be suitable. It's funny that they went up there to hang out. It's not a very big space.

 

[AnnPann]

I'm not sure where you're located but do you find it's too "open" in the winter. There's a lot of ventilation. I wonder if it's too much when it gets cold out. I guess you felt like you needed the winterizing panels...

I'm in KS and my coop is unprotected (no trees or buildings near by), and it gets WINDY here, year round, so yes we definitely needed the winterizing panels. I really like how the ventilation in the henhouse is all overhead. I did add Premier1 Ultrascreen to the openings on the back (under the roof) to blunt the N wind. It's removable, so will only be up during wintertime. The Ultrascreen still allows air flow, but makes it so the strong wind isn't swirling around in the henhouse (see this thread). My winterizing panels also don't go all the way to the roof - I leave around 2' of it at the top open for airflow (and added Ultrascreen to those open areas too). It did get cold when we had that super freezing week before xmas, and a few of my hens got some mild frostbite (I think from drinking, not from moisture in the coop, as it stayed very dry), and a few had to be brought into the garage to thaw the ice that accumulated on their backs from the condensation on their own breath. But they all survived (including 3 month old chicks!), and if they can make it through that cold snap, I think we'll be good from here on out!

I was wondering if we need a closing door. Is there a problem just leaving it open for them to come and go as they please?

You can technically leave it open since the entire structure is protected with HWC. I just sleep better knowing they are locked up and "out of sight." I'd prefer they get in the habit of sleeping in the coop where foxes, coyotes, racoons, etc can't be eyeballing them all night.

The ladder would have to be directly on the inside of the coop so they can get down when the bedding is low. Would it be bad for the wood on the legs of the ladder to sit in the deep bedding while the layers keep getting higher? I wonder if it would warp and decay.

I used pressure treated wood to make the ladder from the henhouse to the run because of this. And the one inside the coop was scrap from the other ladder. It was probably the easiest part of the whole project, so if it rotted and we needed to replace it, it's a quick fix. Also doesn't have to be a ladder made of wood. With only 12" to cover, you could just stack some cinder blocks or bricks to make "steps" (and add/remove as needed based on bedding height).

Someone mentioned that I probably don't need a poop board. Are you glad you added it?

YES YES YES. Can't imagine not having it. I put a thin layer of PDZ on it and scoop it every other day or so. They don't all end up "hitting" the board because they sleep in weird places, but I'd say 80% of the poop ends up on the board (and then scooped out and put into my compost bins, which I then use in my garden). One surprise bonus of the poop board was it gave me a bit of storage underneath. I was mad I didn't get to keep the storage above the nesting boxes, but realized I could put containers of food/treats/grit/etc under the poop board, and the hens leave it alone and it doesn't get pooped on.

 

[3KillerBs]

I'm in KS and my coop is unprotected (no trees or buildings near by), and it gets WINDY here, year round, so yes we definitely needed the winterizing panels.

So very important to understand your local conditions and adapt your practices to suit them.