Framing questions - weather issues

[Luckytaz]

Sounds like you have a good plan. I just started building 8x10 coop, inside my pole building. It's on skids, so when it's closed in, I'll pull it out.

 

[LynneP]

Thompson's is a good product, an excellent alternative. Building always takes longer than we think, and starting in spring can be tricky if the weather won't cooperate, then the birds hatch and there's mass panic!

 

[kiwiegg]

Thanks for the replies everyone - that is a cool design goldtopper, all that MN snow will slide right off! I'm going in the direction of doing as much as I can in my detatched garage over the winter and putting it together in spring. The "dummies" walk in plan calls for the floor (base) to just have outside 2x4's in treated lumber but I'm going to do the whole thing in treated and put it up on low concrete blocks, not the 4x4 treated skids it calls for. This way I can do it over the next few months at my own pace and spread out the financial shock too!

 

[Judy]

Quote:
I wouldn't and most people wouldn't -- see Pat's post again. No reason to use crummier and more expensive lumber that you are going to protect from elements.

If you were thinking all treated so you could leave it half-built during winter, I think you'd regret that. It wouldn't rot in the weather, but it would do everything else bad -- twist, warp, crack, curl. I wish you could see the porch I built a couple of years ago -- despite having a coat of water seal on it.

Since you have a garage, you can nearly finish it in there, just have several large pieces to haul out and put together. Ideal situation in my mind. You can do a tremendous amount of it ahead and still have the pieces of manageable weight. Especially if you are going to have a peak roof.

 

[kiwiegg]

Thanks for the input everybody. goldtopper, that's a nice disign - the MN snow will slide right off!

 

[CityChook]

FWIW, I put Behr waterproofing stain on my exterior siding in the fall and by the following spring it had already started peeling up. I don't think it holds up very well to our long lasting cold temperatures. I much more prefer to use linseed oil/mineral spirits to seal the T1-11. The stain seemed to hold up just fine on the timbers (like in the run) but not at all on the siding. Weird. Like you are planning, I also put my coop up on landscape blocks instead of skids and am very happy with it's performance. Make sure you build in a place with good run off for that spring thaw and that you keep the coop high enough that it isn't going to flood or having standing water beneath it. Also, consider the direction the door will face and build it high enough that you won't have to dig it out (of the snow) so you can open it. We've survived 2 MN winters now very successfully. Good luck!

 

[kiwiegg]

Thanks for all the good advive everyone. Citychook, i was thinking of putting a coat of kilz then two coats of exterior paint on the T1-11 when I'm done. I used "Australian Oil", a Cabot product on some cedar Adirondack furniture I made in spring - they did not even last the summer - they look OK but the original finish is long gone. What exactly did you use (linseed etc) for yours? It would look nice I'm sure, very natural. I was thinking of matching color with this playhouse I made last year and have promised my wife to put window boxes on the coop!

 

[kiwiegg]

ddawn - I think you're right. The weather is goning to get real nasty real soon here. Untreated lumber is cheaper and easier to work with and I have been inspired on this forum HOW MUCH people do in their garages in preparation for the final build. Thanks.

 

[CityChook]

When working with exterior wood, I use 1/2 linseed oil 1/2 mineral spirits. The spirits help the oil absorb deeply and then they evaporate and just leave the oil. Wipe away any residue, although I find that virgin wood rarely has residue left over - it all absorbs. Use a disposable paint brush and work over the dirt or grass - the oil will stain concrete/asphalt (don't ask me how I know this -- my DH isn't happy about this). I've been using this mixture for my teak patio furniture for the last 10+ years and am happy with the results.

I went with a natural look for the T1-11 on the exterior of my coop, but I like the protection of paint. Use oil based Kilz and exterior paint, even on the interior of the coop. It will adhere better and withstand the fluxuations of temperature much better than an interior paint will. PS - if you're willing to spend the time/money, I recommend painting your interior. It might seem like a hassle now, but trust me, the first time you have to clean out your coop you're going to be REALLY glad you did it. And after a long winter of being locked inside, your coop is going to be DIRTY. Do the floor while you're at it.

Also, consider hardwiring your electrical service. You are going to need it and having it hard wired looks better and is so much safer. You'll need power for keeping water thawed and providing heat/light should you choose to do so.

PS - that playhouse is amazing. I have 3 daughters who would DIE to have that in their backyard. My chickens are spoiled...

Feel free to PM me anytime if I can be of assistance.

cc

 

[owler]

The only thing I would worry about is a plywood floor where snow/water will sit. Framing will be fine. Builders don't worry about weather until the building is sealed and the interior work as started. Before that no effort is used to keep weather out. The wood will be fine because the snow/water is not sitting. Like I said, only worry about the floor.