I'd like to support the post of the other posters.
First, frothy droppings are most often a sign of worms, particularly if they're green and the birds are adults.
DE, used correctly, is one of a number of good natural ways to ward off great loads of intestinal parasites.
HOWEVER - once there is a worm issue, you simply must deworm with a standard worming product to save the live of the bird and your flock. The description that you've given of this bird strongly tells me that the bird has a heavy parasite load. If one does, then it's possible that more do.
Heavy parasite loads must be handled carefully. Too many worms dying off at once can actually cause a bird to go into anaphylactic shock. Think of what you've heard about organ donors going into shock when the body 'rejects' the donated organ. It does so because it doesn't recognize what it considered a foreign protein. The same thing happens with worms. When the worms are alive, it's no problem (other than the obvious problems worms cause). But when the worm dies, it becomes a foreign protein. A lot of worms causes the body to think that there's a mass of foreign protein and it goes into shock. Add to that a heavy load of dead worms trying to leave the intestine and often there's blockage.
So, to avoid that, the standard and recommended protocol is to start with a worming with Wazine 17 (piperazine 17%). Do NOT buy the piperazine for dogs/cats. Only the livestock piperazine with labeling for poultry to avoid confusion and frustration.
Piperazine pretty much only kills roundworms, and then not all of them (it must be repeated). But this is GOOD for your situation! You don't want to kill them all - you want to kill enough to help start solving the problem without killing the bird. Give one day, withdraw eating eggs and meat for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, then go back and worm all of the birds with ivermectin. I prefer the drop-on, used between the shoulders. I buy generic to cut paying for labels. It only takes a drop to three depending on the bird and the safety margin is huge. You can eat the eggs during using ivermectin.
Worm them now, and THEN let your DE, cayenne, etc do the work of keeping things from getting too bad between your twice a year wormings. I like spring before summer, and fall so that birds' weights don't drop off during the winter.
I am a big proponent of using as few chemicals as possible. I used DE for years in my flock and am about to do so again now that my flock is gaining in size again (after a raccoon and dog depopulation of them). I'm the type of person who likes natural source vitamins, living nutrition, and organic things. But I do know from my over thirty years of experience with exotic birds and poultry that there are some times when a chemical is necessary. And this is one of them.
By the way, at any time that any bird experiences stress or illness or medication, always boost their essential parasite colonies of their gut by using a probiotic. You can use plain yogurt (as long as you're not medicating with a mycin or cycline drug), acidophilus tablets/capsules (commonly found at grocers and pharmacies now days), or a prepared livestock probiotic (live bacteria pls, must say CFU somewhere on the label) like probios (powder or paste), fastrack, etc.
Use daily during medication - even antibiotics - to hedge your bets. Then for every day you medicate, use at least every other day for twice that many days.
Example: 7 days of medication give probiotics daily, 14 days after medication give probiotics every other day at least.
In this case, I'd worm the one day and then give probiotics every other day for the 2 weeks until you give the ivermectin. Then every other day for a week after the ivermectin.
I hope this helps. please feel free to PM me with any questions about anything I've posted. Thanks!
