- Dec 10, 2013
- 74
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Welcome!thanks Brother Rolito
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Welcome!thanks Brother Rolito
when i fill my bator with water it goes up to 37% humidity, after a couple days it drops all the way down to 10%I let local eggs sit for 6-12 hours, and shipped eggs sit overnight so 12-24 hours but never more.
That along with the Brinsea and minimal candling (max twice, Usually just once) generally produces fabulous results.
Also tend to run the bator a bit dry, and hatch at 50-60% humidity. The lower humidity has virtually eliminated last minute failure to hatch.
i only wish the silkies had made it for Bernie's wifecandling results of chickens
buff orps 6/6
bbs orps 12/15
silkie 0/3
salmon favs 6/6
hfr mutts 22/29
bp brahma 4/8
others 75% average viability
.
this is the highest we have ever seen. if we can translate this into 50% hatched birds, we will be over the moon.
I am crying over the San Diego eggs not making it.
Search @ You Tube How to set up P. I. G. S. Baboyang walang amoy or odorless pigpen.
That is FABULOUS!!!candling results of chickens
buff orps 6/6
bbs orps 12/15
silkie 0/3
salmon favs 6/6
hfr mutts 22/29
bp brahma 4/8
others 75% average viability
.
this is the highest we have ever seen. if we can translate this into 50% hatched birds, we will be over the moon.
I am crying over the San Diego eggs not making it.
i can still take it in exchange for a regular luggagewhen i fill my bator with water it goes up to 37% humidity, after a couple days it drops all the way down to 10%
i let it stay that way overnight, then refill the pan with water once again.
i get 80% to 100% hatches with this method using my own local eggs
now this # is after i have removed any clears
i only wish the silkies had made it for Bernie's wife
can we hope for a pair of bronze turkeys?
not sure what to do about them "nicking" you on the golf bag ....... are you more or less done now on importing OZ ???
Hmmmm...I don't have a humidity gauge and with my first hatch last year, I just followed the directions (put water in the channel, make sure it stayed full, increased humidity prior to hatch by putting water in the second channel).
I lost one chick at hatch, and I had one other shrink-wrapped chick.
But....I was your typical first time hatcher and had that bator open every few minutes (BAAAAD).
Maybe I should pick up a humidity gauge and stick it in my Brinsea?
Humidity gauges are very, very finicky things. You can put 10 of them next to eachother and all will read something different. Calibrate them, and a week later they're off again.
I used to have hermit crabs for YEARS and they had very specific humidity requirements... went through every gauge out there and none of them were reliable for long. Eventually you learn what to look for *laugh*. With crabs: mold? too wet. Condensation? too wet. Dry substrate? too dry (obviously). We adjusted with sponges and misting (sound familiar? lol) and increasing/reducing air flow.
I'm sure with eggs it works much the same. Go by what you see. Size of the air pocket. Condensation. Shrink wrapping. etc. Adjust accordingly. Put a gauge in if it helps, just know they can be off quite a bit. Trust your gut tooAnd stop opening the bator!![]()
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SALLY SUNSHINE has a hatching 101 article in my signature area.That's interesting, I wasn't aware of that. We have a humidity gauge in the snake's tank (son has a corn snake) and it's always showing low humidity, but...well...it's been dry around these parts!