Goat worming

tvtaber

Songster
12 Years
Aug 2, 2007
350
4
141
Central CA
I have 5 adult pygmy goats, all are healthy but we've had them for a few months and it is spring (summer?) so it seems it is time to worm them. I am confused by all the info online, most of it for producers of meat or milk with big operations, and hesitate to call the nice lady we bought them from because she seemed to be overly concientious(wacky?).

I understand the issues with underdosing, using the same wormer, etc, but need a simple primer on the practical application. I have not seen any worms in the litter and everyone seems to be pink gummed and energetic.

Thanks!
 
My goats have never been wormed in their life. The oldest is 4 - 5 years old. My vet just checked them out about a week ago and none of them have worms.
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I do not believe in just routinely worming or treating aniamls without cause. You can have the poop checked and if worms are found then treat them. If not don't treat them. LOL
 
Yup - get a fecal run on them and go from there.

We know we have roundworms in our soil and protozoal cocci - so we have to routinely deworm our goats. We choose Ivermec to control the worms here as SafeGuard has a high level of resistance in our area (talk to a vet about what is working and what isn't in your area). However, SafeGuard DOES work on the protozoal cocci (this is a fairly new use for this drug).
 
Safeguard is pretty 'safe' if you're doing it without 100% certainty that you have a problem. You could always take a fecal to the vet and get it checked. It costs me about $10. You'll spend more than $10 on dewormer pretty quickly.
 
I agree get a fecal or learn to do them yourself and then if any eggs or worms are found then worm them...also not only do you check the gums but the bottom eyelid too. This is a good way to see if they are anemic too. I fecal before worming and you need to take in fresh berries straight from the goat for it to work. Dry berries dont work as well either.
 
If the eyeylids and gums are bubblegum pink they are good and if they arent that pink they are wormy usually. paler and almost white they are anemic and need iron and worming and not to fast either you give them half the dose just to kill of some of the adult worm or they can basically bleed to death from worming and killing all the parasites to fast I check mine and do a fecal on the skinniest goat. then I proceed from there with worming mine. Then I do it again in 10 days and then 10 days later and they are usually very pink by then but you want to get as many stages of larva as possible.
 
alot of people say not to routinely deworm ur goats/animals, because it causes disease resistance to the parasites.. but i have two 14 year old goats. and i believe it is because i deworm. i have to routinely deworm anywase, because where i live there are nieghbors animals that arent taken care of well with worms that run over into my property, and horses, cattle, dogs, chickens etc all shareing 10 acres.. so i need to deworm regularily. I have raised goats for a long time... i work at a vet clinic, and fortunatley can do regular fecals exams for free,, but alot of people cant. and instead of not worming. i would worm. the only goats i ever lost, was because i was going through a stage where i told myself i wouldnt worm inless i thought i needed to... when goats get worms, boy they get them! and they will just die on you. there wasnt anything i could do. and ever since then i have wormed about three to four times a year, and i have never lost one since.
i use something alot of people prob think would be weird.. but this is what i have always used, it is the most cost effiecient for me. however if you goats are not pets, then it might be harder than just buying goat wormer pellets.

i buy horse ivermectin in the syringe,, then dose them accordingly. then ill get safeguard horse syringe and, then something eles horse wormer... etc etc.

i just stick it in their mouth. its quick, easy and i can worm about six to nine goats off of one horse tube.
 

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