African Toulouse eh? Are the males generally aggressive? Mine just started getting nasty, bit me, hissed at me, the works. The female is still pretty sweet.
GOOSE BREEDING THREAD - for breeding, incubating, hatching and rearing.
- Thread starter pete55
- Start date
I almost lost a lip to my gander once. man they can stretch their necks a long way. I looked like I'd be in a bar room brawl. Now if i want to pet him on the head I do it real fast. He's not near as aggressive as he was when younger.
Not only can they stretch their necks, but they go from calm to angry in about a heartbeat! They're quicker than they look!
It is funny though. I mean it wasn't funny that the end of my nose looked leprous for like 10 days, but it was funny that I was so dumb as to let that happen.
I still pick them up and cuddle them occasionally but I always make sure I have my hand on their neck/head. I remember when I first got geese I looked up some information and was aghast that they had teeth not only on their bills but their tongues! I was too stupid, at that point, to translate what that meant if I picked up a large bird with a REALLY long neck and didn't control the neck...
Because they're like freaking cobras!
But so fluffy, I'm going to die!
I leave all the brooding to my geese, but my book says that storage is 75%, but for incubating, no more than 40% (38-40) RH for pils (at 99ºF/37.2ºC), whereas ducks and chinese are better at 55% RH. It says that Pils don´t do well with too much humidity, which is why those eggs can do well under broody chickens, unlike the Chinese that need higher RH.. ..my book by Chris Ashton.Hi.
What temperature and humidity does everyone have their incubator on when incubating Pilgrim Geese?
We could have hung out together and everyone would have wondered if we won the fight or the other guy did. lol
You have no idea of how fast the goslings or adult geese can run until you try to catch them!!!! Then you see.....
Storage is when you put the eggs aside to get enough to put into the incubator.
Pilrims need less humidity. If they are too wet they die in shell. Me, I don´t really understand the shutdown thing, as my geese come off the nest anyway, as normal...I can keep a really good eye on what´s happening with the pipping etc. because of this. In my book, the author doesn´t seem to do shut-down. She waits until they internally pip, then moves them to a hatcher where she keeps a close eye to make sure they lost enough liquid to hatch...or, that they´re not losing too much...in which case she lessens or raises the humidity. ou cn tell by the size of the aircell and the weight of the egg.
As regards temp, maybe go by your manual. I´m only relating what my book here says, as I don´t use incubators. The book also says that a lot depends on the weather conditions as to whether you get a successful hatch, for instance, heat waves, bad weather, can mess too much with the eggs and they don´t survive. It says early in the season can be less successful than later, and that males are more likely early in the season...lots of info here, it´s very interesting. It says that African and Chinese are the easiest to hatch in incubators because they naturally lose water more readiy than the European breeds....etc
The shortest time is 28 days to incubate, pipping is usually 28 days +, up to 30+. Often incubators seem to take longer than natural brooding. This book I have is very good. Why not see if you can get a copy? There are a few really good books available full of information. This one I have is "Domestic Geese" by Chris Ashton who has Ashton Waterfowl in England. You should be able to get it there, I imagine?
Never have truer words been writ.
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