Gosling pooping bubbles and something that looks like maybe worms? She is eating, drinking and walking fine. She looks and acts healthy.

[Goosebaby]

Well the one that lays down a lot is pooping total liquid green or water. It’s getting concerning to me. I am really worried about her because she is so sweet. She is getting some more adultish feathers so she is growing and isn’t losing weight or anything but…

Have you tried the corid? If not start them on it.

Runny droppings are caused by some sort of inflammation in the intestines, the problem is determining what.
Sometimes it isn’t that big of an issue, it could be a temporary thing that resolved itself or not.
Healthy geese will have runny droppings now and then if they’ve been getting too hot and drinking a lot of water as a result or if they’ve been eating watery foods like fruit.

Coccidiosis is a common cause of droppings like these, but the issue is that countless other things can cause this issue and each of them has a different course of treatment.

If you have a vet that will do a fecal stain and a fecal float I would highly recommend it, that’s the only way you’re going to have any idea what could be going on here.

You could buy antibiotics but blindly treating without knowing what the cause is can create more problems, unfortunatly that’s often the only choice many of us have with the lack of vets that will see poultry but even still getting some real veterinary work is much better.

There are a few things you can try, but I’m wary of them considering her age and weight, it can be difficult to figure out the right dosage if she’s under a pound of weight but here’s some more common illnesses I can think of that could do this plus what treats them.

Coccidia - amprolium/Corid or toltrazuril

Worms - fenbendazole “safeguard horse paste”

Giardia - SMZ TMP, Metronidazole, or fenbendazole

Clostridium - Amoxicillin, Baytril, Metronidazole, Tylosin, depending on the species


SUpplements with potassium can not be given when SMZ TMP is in the body, otherwise this antibiotic is considered fairly safe when taken at the proper dosage.

Giardia is a tricky thing to eradicate, reinfection is pretty much a given, you have to completely sterilize everything she could come into contact with during and after treatment.

Clostridium isn’t something that can be avoided considering how hardy it is and that it lives in everything’s gut anyway. Clostridium is tricky because treating it with antibiotics also kills the good bacteria that keeps it at bay, so it can come back worse after treating it, so always use an excellent probiotic during and after antibiotic treatment.

 

[Goosebaby]

Some of those antibiotics have a broad spectrum and will treat a number of issues, SMZ TMP, Baytril, and Tylosin are good choices for gastrointestinal issues.
But sometimes bacteria is very specific with what will kill it, some antibiotics will just beat it down but not kill it and by doing so create a resistant strain of bacteria.

 

[4Dobermans]

Have you tried the corid? If not start them on it.

Runny droppings are caused by some sort of inflammation in the intestines, the problem is determining what.
Sometimes it isn’t that big of an issue, it could be a temporary thing that resolved itself or not.
Healthy geese will have runny droppings now and then if they’ve been getting too hot and drinking a lot of water as a result or if they’ve been eating watery foods like fruit.

Coccidiosis is a common cause of droppings like these, but the issue is that countless other things can cause this issue and each of them has a different course of treatment.

If you have a vet that will do a fecal stain and a fecal float I would highly recommend it, that’s the only way you’re going to have any idea what could be going on here.

You could buy antibiotics but blindly treating without knowing what the cause is can create more problems, unfortunatly that’s often the only choice many of us have with the lack of vets that will see poultry but even still getting some real veterinary work is much better.

There are a few things you can try, but I’m wary of them considering her age and weight, it can be difficult to figure out the right dosage if she’s under a pound of weight but here’s some more common illnesses I can think of that could do this plus what treats them.

Coccidia - amprolium/Corid or toltrazuril

Worms - fenbendazole “safeguard horse paste”

Giardia - SMZ TMP or fenbendazole

Clostridium - Amoxicillin, Baytril, Metronidazole, Tylosin, depending on the species


SUpplements with potassium can not be given when SMZ TMP is in the body, otherwise this antibiotic is considered fairly safe when taken at the proper dosage.

Giardia is a tricky thing to eradicate, reinfection is pretty much a given, you have to completely sterilize everything she could come into contact with during and after treatment.

Clostridium isn’t something that can be avoided considering how hardy it is and that it lives in everything’s gut anyway. Clostridium is tricky because treating it with antibiotics also kills the good bacteria that keeps it at bay, so it can come back worse after treating it, so always use an excellent probiotic during and after antibiotic treatment.

I am going to say it’s probably coccidious. It’s the one I have always had a problem with. My birds have never had any other parasite or problem with sickness besides the coccidious and the sour crop from the impaction. I am going to start them on corid because they all have green poop so I will give them all it for about probably two or three days to see if they get better.

 

[Goosebaby]

Try the corid, corid actually doesn’t truly kill coccidia, it just beats it back enough that the body can recover and develop antibodies to it. Toltrazuril will actually kill it but it’s very pricey.
Some exposure to coccidia is good, teaching the immune system to fight it is preferable to not being exposed and coming down with it hard later in life, so toltrazuril is for really bad infections in my opinion. Corid is just fine unless you have a strain that’s resistant to it.

 

[4Dobermans]

Try the corid, corid actually doesn’t truly kill coccidia, it just beats it back enough that the body can recover and develop antibodies to it. Toltrazuril will actually kill it but it’s very pricey.
Some exposure to coccidia is good, teaching the immune system to fight it is preferable to not being exposed and coming down with it hard later in life, so toltrazuril is for really bad infections in my opinion. Corid is just fine unless you have a strain that’s resistant to it.

you don’t think she looks pale or anything right? She still won’t eat but will drink water. Also is it alright her wing looks like that. I am getting really worried and upset about her. She is really a sweet one. She is going to die isn’t she. She just pooped liquid with white stringy stuff.

 

[4Dobermans]

Try the corid, corid actually doesn’t truly kill coccidia, it just beats it back enough that the body can recover and develop antibodies to it. Toltrazuril will actually kill it but it’s very pricey.
Some exposure to coccidia is good, teaching the immune system to fight it is preferable to not being exposed and coming down with it hard later in life, so toltrazuril is for really bad infections in my opinion. Corid is just fine unless you have a strain that’s resistant to it.

She is still not eating but she drinks a whole bunch of water. I don’t know what to do. She is going to die and I can’t save her because the stupid vet won’t see her and there is no way I am taking her to the other two since they killed my animals before

 

[Miss Lydia]

Have you ever tube feed any of your birds?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/tube-feeding-ducks-updated-5-7-2020.1211994/
Poor baby needs some nourishment.

 

[4Dobermans]

Have you ever tube feed any of your birds?
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/tube-feeding-ducks-updated-5-7-2020.1211994/
Poor baby needs some nourishment.

I don’t feel safe doing it with the tubs. I have syringe fed them before and I have gave them medication before with a syringe.

 

[Goosebaby]

Tube feeding is scary at first but once you and your bird get used to it it isn’t so bad, tube feeding has brought some of my birds back from near death, when it comes to the point that they aren’t eating you don’t really have a choice, you have to feed them or they will die, and you might as well put them down quickly if you aren’t going to tube feed them because death by starvation is an awful way to go.

I have syringe fed geese when I didn’t have the tube on hand, it’s also how I administer liquid medications, the downside of syring feeding is that you can only administer liquids through the syringe, so liquid vitamins and pedialyte are the best you can do with a syringe, which isn’t much.

If you do use a syring it’s important that you don’t get in down their airway, if by accident they do get some down the wrong tube let them shake it out as much as the can. Insert the syringe as far down the RIGHT side of HER throat and hit the plunger.

You can try gerber baby food, I’m not sure if you can get it through a syringe, it might still be too thick, it isn’t a good source of protein but it’s the most effective gut lubricant that doesn’t make my gander vomit that I’ve used.

If you can tube feed her I would suggest getting some feed that’s 30% protein, the more concentrated nutrients will help her while she isn’t eating as much.

If you can’t get her to a vet, then you might try getting her antibiotics, if you think it is coccidia I would suggest SMZ TMP, you can get it from here https://okiedogsupply.com/fish-smz-tmp-30ct/
It will treat coccidia, giardia, and a number of other possible causes, but you need to feed her while you’re waiting on the antibiotic.

How much does she way?

 

[4Dobermans]

Tube feeding is scary at first but once you and your bird get used to it it isn’t so bad, tube feeding has brought some of my birds back from near death, when it comes to the point that they aren’t eating you don’t really have a choice, you have to feed them or they will die, and you might as well put them down quickly if you aren’t going to tube feed them because death by starvation is an awful way to go.

I have syringe fed geese when I didn’t have the tube on hand, it’s also how I administer liquid medications, the downside of syring feeding is that you can only administer liquids through the syringe, so liquid vitamins and pedialyte are the best you can do with a syringe, which isn’t much.

If you do use a syring it’s important that you don’t get in down their airway, if by accident they do get some down the wrong tube let them shake it out as much as the can. Insert the syringe as far down the RIGHT side of HER throat and hit the plunger.

You can try gerber baby food, I’m not sure if you can get it through a syringe, it might still be too thick, it isn’t a good source of protein but it’s the most effective gut lubricant that doesn’t make my gander vomit that I’ve used.

If you can tube feed her I would suggest getting some feed that’s 30% protein, the more concentrated nutrients will help her while she isn’t eating as much.

If you can’t get her to a vet, then you might try getting her antibiotics, if you think it is coccidia I would suggest SMZ TMP, you can get it from here https://okiedogsupply.com/fish-smz-tmp-30ct/
It will treat coccidia, giardia, and a number of other possible causes, but you need to feed her while you’re waiting on the antibiotic.

How much does she way?

I have no idea on the weight. She isn’t losing any and she has some of her more adult feathers so she is growing but…. Let me rephrase that. She does eat but only tiny bites and only if I sprinkle it into her beak. I think she might be a little more stable on her feet because yesterday she was a little stumbly. I do have Gerber baby food, I can try it. I am not sure if it is sickness or dehydration because she drank a shit ton of water and still is drinking water sometimes. The others ones aren’t sick though and after I gave corid the other two started pooping solid browns again. I am confused on what it is