GRAPHIC PICS of my day learning to caponize

There's a testicle sac surrounding each testicle. Use a tweezers tool (tweezers end of the scalpel tool in the Chinese tool set) to grasp a tiny portion of the sac to tear the sac. Once the testicle is exposed, one can use the tweezers to pull and twist (not my favorite method but sometimes necessary) the testicle free. The only thing holding the testicle will be the vas deferens. If you're using a straw tool, the same sac must be removed first. Using the straw tool is similar to grabbing and pulling. Be careful, though, as the straw may cut into the testicle when one pulls on the wire/line/thread. If the wire/line/thread is not at the base of the testicle, because the operator has the tool over the sac and the testicle, the sharp edge of the straw may cut into the testicle causing a slip.

With practice, the wire tool works better than the other tools because there is immediate feedback to the operator's fingers telling him/her where the wire is and when the resistance ends. The single strand has the best cutting ability (rather than a double wire, thick wire, or a plastic fishing line). Using the wire tool well requires practice. Watch youtube videos. Watch people use the tool. It's elegant because it's simple and it works. We are rarely experts the first time we learn a new skill. If one can't get the wire tool around the testicle, the sac surrounding the testicle is probably still intact. Tearing the sac at its anchor points, the ends closest to the artery, is riskier than tearing the sac near the center of the testicle.
Very sad but good lesson. How did the two older fellows do after I left?
 
There's a testicle sac surrounding each testicle. Use a tweezers tool (tweezers end of the scalpel tool in the Chinese tool set) to grasp a tiny portion of the sac to tear the sac. Once the testicle is exposed, one can use the tweezers to pull and twist (not my favorite method but sometimes necessary) the testicle free. The only thing holding the testicle will be the vas deferens. If you're using a straw tool, the same sac must be removed first. Using the straw tool is similar to grabbing and pulling. Be careful, though, as the straw may cut into the testicle when one pulls on the wire/line/thread. If the wire/line/thread is not at the base of the testicle, because the operator has the tool over the sac and the testicle, the sharp edge of the straw may cut into the testicle causing a slip.

With practice, the wire tool works better than the other tools because there is immediate feedback to the operator's fingers telling him/her where the wire is and when the resistance ends. The single strand has the best cutting ability (rather than a double wire, thick wire, or a plastic fishing line). Using the wire tool well requires practice. Watch youtube videos. Watch people use the tool. It's elegant because it's simple and it works. We are rarely experts the first time we learn a new skill. If one can't get the wire tool around the testicle, the sac surrounding the testicle is probably still intact. Tearing the sac at its anchor points, the ends closest to the artery, is riskier than tearing the sac near the center of the testicle.
Great post Poco.
goodpost.gif
The art of this comes at a price. Practice, practice, practice. I see I'm not alone in not being able to find the correct area to cut. Just need some roosters to practice.on.
big_smile.png
 
Both older fellows are eating, drinking, pooping, and demanding to be let out. They will be confined until their incision sites are healed. I credit the vitamin supplement and fasting regimen for their survival.

Such good news! That K is amazing stuff! So happy for Dan too, he seemed a bit disheartened.

Here are my two successful attempts. They are sick of isolation already, and keep begging to be let out!


I usually keep any birds with injuries for around 2 weeks.

How long should it take capons to recover?
 
Last edited:
We still have 13.5 roos to caponize. Duckmang is going to make us a cauterizing tool to get the testes out instead of string this week, and we're going to try again in a few days. Tonight I have to grab up Screech and bring him inside or something, until we can make him a capon.
 
Both older fellows are eating, drinking, pooping, and demanding to be let out. They will be confined until their incision sites are healed. I credit the vitamin supplement and fasting regimen for their survival.

I'm so glad to hear this. I sent you a pm but you must not have gotten it yet. I was so scared that I had truly hurt the one I did. All I know is he really, really shouldn't be a slip. LOL
 
Such good news! That K is amazing stuff! So happy for Dan too, he seemed a bit disheartened.

Here are my two successful attempts. They are sick of isolation already, and keep begging to be let out!


I usually keep any birds with injuries for around 2 weeks.

How long should it take capons to recover?

Tara, did you go home and do more? I have 3 maybe 4 wild boys in a cage outside. Wild boys are ones who refuse to sleep in the coop. I have a few more and I am hoping that after they are caponized that they will want to be homebodys. I think I counted about 12 that need to be caponized but I have to get a few more supplies before I do it so, these guys are going to have to live in the cage for a few days.
 
We have 13.5 more roos to caponize still. My bf duckmang and I decided to try to do 2 more tomorrow night, and repeat every couple of days to make things more manageable.

Everyone is alive today still, eating, drinking etc. In the 1 pen are 14 chickens and 10 muscovy ducks in a 25x75 area. No one is picking on anyone, or bothering anyone.

How long should we wait to try again with the ones we opened up too high? We're starting with the ones we haven't tried to caponize yet, so the others can heal up, but we need to get it done.
 
I liked that tool better for that too. I found I could grab it with those and once was able to get the tweezers and the string tool in one hand while I maneuvered the string underneath (dose that make sense
hmm.png
), the sawing motion was difficult, you need a second pair of hands to remove the tweezers.

I don't know if I got a 2nd tool with the hole for the thread but if I did, I think what I am going to try is to put the other end of the thread in the other tool, untied. Once I get the thread around the testical, twist the tools to the other hands which will cross the thread and see if I can saw it that way. If I can get the thread ends in opposite hands, it might work better and the only way to cross the thread that way is to have a second tool with a thread hole in it.

The tweezers are good for the younger ones who don't have all the attachments around the testical but I will be caponing 5 month olds and I am not sure what I will find in each of them.
 
Tara, did you go home and do more? I have 3 maybe 4 wild boys in a cage outside. Wild boys are ones who refuse to sleep in the coop. I have a few more and I am hoping that after they are caponized that they will want to be homebodys. I think I counted about 12 that need to be caponized but I have to get a few more supplies before I do it so, these guys are going to have to live in the cage for a few days.

I have a few weeks until I'll have any that need the procedure. I brought all of the boys I had! I have some week old chicks that the cockerals will be my first solo attempts.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom