Green turds Please help. :) [Pictures included]

[tulie13]

Quote:
ARE YOU USING MEDICATED CHICK STARTER FEED? As in containing a small amount of amprolium (I think it's like 0.125%). If you are using the medicated feed, then it's probably NOT cocci.

Other advanced bacterial digestive orders (such as E. coli) can also cause intestinal bleeding. Which means Corid/amprolium for cocci will probably not help, if it's not coccidiosis. I believe Sulmet is effective against several bacterial infections, and Glenda recommended it for the E. coli in your green-pooping hen.

If you are NOT USING MEDICATED CHICK STARTER FEED, there is a chance that you may have coccidiosis in your chicks. Glenda has already suggested that it may be cocci, and that does cause bloody poo. In this case, I would treat for cocci - you can use Corid/amprolium if you can get it at your local feed store, or Sulmet. Directions should be on the containers. Sulmet should be able to help coccidiosis and E.coli, so I'd be inclined to use the Sulmet and cross your fingers.

 

[Glenda L Heywood]

True the Sulmet would do the two things at once

In my post I did tell what to do if Red Poo

here is the answer again as it is sign of coccidiopsis

#1 FOR COCCIDIOSIS
really red poo

if your going to only feed the hen and chicks the medication for coccidiosis in their water and feed then you may have to make a make shift pen to isolated them in for 5-7 days while medicating for coccidiosis

for the hen and chicks do this for coccidiosis
4 TBSP OF DRY CRUMBLE FEED
8 TBSP OF WATER
ADD 1 TSP OF SULMET
mix good and feed the hen and chicks
FEED THIS FOR TWO MORNINGS
THEN CLEAN THE WET FEEDER AND PUT THE DRY CRUMBLES BACK IN FEEDER

also put the coccidiosis medication in their waterers for the 5-7 days]

for the flock do this for coccidiosis
THIS CAN BE MADE INTO
1 QT OF DRY FEED
2 QTS OF WATER
and then add tsp of sulmet for coccidiosis

FOR HEN AND CHICKS for coccidiosis
Corrid is for coccidiosis
4 tbsp of dry crumble feed
8 tbsp of water
2 tsp of corid 9.6%
for two mornings
also put corid 2 tsp in gallon of water
for the 5-7 days for coccidiosis

If using corid 9.6% for the flock for coccidiosis
1 QT OF of dry mash
2 QTS of water
add 2 tsp of corid 9.6% to the water
feed 2 tsp per chicken for a feeding
feed this two mornings to get the medication in the birds
also at same time put the corid or sulmet in the drinking water for 7 days each chick get 2 tsp of the wet mash with coccidiosis meds

speckled hen gives corid(9.6%) liquid in 2 tsp per gallon of water
And after medicating give the following things for coccidiosis
either the corid amproylium or the sulmet will work but now you have a difficient gut problem with the E.coli
and it needs to have the Vitamin E put in the wet mash probiotic to help the E.coli gut problem

#2 GREEN POO
do this
now the
natural probiotic recipe is is:
3 tbsp of dry crumbles
4 tbsp of milk, sweet, sour, or buttermilk or a mixture of all or some
1 tbsp of yoguart of non flavored yoguart ( no artificial sweetmer)
mix good
AFTER PUTTING vIT'S IN
PUT 1 TBSP OF APPLE SAUCE FOR THE WET MASH PROBIOTIC

NOW THE IMPORTANT INGRIEDIENT FOR EACH CHICK FED
and add 1- 400 mg of Vit E by cutting the end off the vit E capsule for each chick fed this wet mash
putting it in the wet mash
this for HEN AND HER CHICKS

OR FOR each chick your treating
so for each chick use 2 tsp of mixture and 1-1000 mg of Vit E

twice a day for them till the manure is solid

and feed each chick
2 tsp full of the wet mash probiotic and what they will clean up in 20-30 minutes
then clean wet feeders and restock dry crumbles

do this twice a day for a week
till the chicks manure is right
then quit the Vit E make just the wet mash probiotic
then once a week for life

All the while after mdicating the birds use
do not use ACV with medication

2 tbsp of apple cider vinegar per gallon of the chicken water so their gut flora wil be regulated
they should have this at least 3-5 days a week
then three days aweek after they are over coccidiosis
the vit's are neccessary to clean up the damaged gut problem
take all the electrolytes out of the water

email me any questions so you are not confused

 

[threehorses]

Quote:
This seems to be less true lately. There tend to be a lot more chicks coming down with coccidiosis even though they're on medicated food (with amprolium). I still recommend it, but I think it's important that people understand exactly what its purpose and design is.

Amprolium, in feed, is intended to be a coccidiostat. That means normal chicks being raised in a clean environment, usually a brooder, will have enough amprolium in their food to reduce the chance of blooms of the protazoa in their gut as their bodies are developing a resistance to it. That allows them to be exposed to protazoa long enought to where a resistance develops so that later in life they're not bothered by it unless there's something going on with them that makes their immune system low, or they just really get a huge exposure.

But if chickens are exposed to more cocci without having the normal beneficial bacteria innoculation by a true broody hen, they can still get coccidiosis. And babies who are in a brooder exposed without good gut bacteria still do get it. Often. very often.

I'm seeing babies walking behind a mom in the general vicinity of different aged birds. Am I correct in this? They're going to be exposed to a lot of things that their bodies will have to develop immunities towards. This is fine for making a hardy flock. But understand that as they're exposed, they may show signs of the diseases as they develop those immunities.

If you're concerned about digestive issues and poop, I'd just boost their beneficial bacteria (which help protect them against active diseases of the gut) at this point. If you treat, you can treat both the adults and chicks with Sulmet as it's active both against protazoa (cocci), and E. coli bacteria if the coloration of the droppings is not forest green. Forest green scant droppings indicate a lack of food in the system. Olive tannish green droppings that are solid can be normal if the bird is free ranging. They shouldn't tend more towards lime green, or runny when first dropped.

However, it's important to note that the 'urine' (not urate) portion of the droppings, the clear water part, is going to be much more prevalent in the summer as birds drink more water. If you find a dropping that isn't fresh, sometimes they appear runny because the urine has soaked back into the feces (the solid, worm-like part). So it's important when giving poop descriptions to describe one that you find quite freshly dropped. Other than of course red ones, etc - coloration is different. In this aspect I'm talking about texture.

As for red, are they eating anything red? Berries dropped from trees? Anything in their food? Or do the droppings appear at all to be mucousy? If yes to mucus, then I'd treat them all with Amprolium (corid) at the least. If you can't get Coris, then use Sulmet but be aware that it's a true antibiotic.

In either case, in all cases, I'd give them a probiotic - living bacteria.

You can use plain yogurt (make sure each bird gets some - 1/4th teaspoon is fine for very young chicks, ease up to 1 teaspoon per small commercial sized large fowl hen, 1 tablespoon per to-standard large fowl hen. Again - each bird must have some for it to work. If you have to hand feed it, do.

Alternately you can buy Probios from the feedstore (powdered) or Fastrack and mix that with their feed. Or acidophilis tablets/capsules from the grocery (just checked yesterday - they have 2-3 kinds in the vitamin section ) and use at a rate of 1 capsule per adult bird. I like these in a quickly eaten treat (usually boiled/mashed egg yolk, applesauce or applesauce baby food because it's cheap and comes in small quantities, a little crumbles, some water). Use that for either yogurt or other probiotics and make sure all birds get some. If you feed that first thing in the morning (take up their food the night before) then make sure they all get it, that's best. That way you don't have to work as hard to get them to eat it.

If it's bright red, and the chicks aren't eating bright red anything, I'd treat it as if cocci because it's still possible. Only in adulthood is it unlikely. These chicks look like chicks to me.

 

[threehorses]

By the way, Tulie's post has some very good information in it, as does Glenda's. I do hope that you find it useful; it's good stuff.

 

[tulie13]

Quote:
Thanks - I'm a relative newbie at chickens, but I'm a chemist and I do pay attention on here...

 

[threehorses]

Quote:
Thanks - I'm a relative newbie at chickens, but I'm a chemist and I do pay attention on here...

That surprises me and doesn't surprise me!

The surprise is that you're new, the unsurprise is that you're a chemist. Neat!

 

[Americanaluver]

Thank you!

You were/are all really good help!

 

[The Zoo]

Ok so wait - a 'spring green' colored poo is bad?
Off to give the hens some yogurt....