Grower Feed for Geese

Holderread gave me this when I ordered my geese.

A Dozen Suggestions for Starting Your Ducklings and Goslings
l. Expect your hatchlings to arrive 12-36 hours after shipment. Notify your post office of the expected shipment of day-olds, and ask to be called upon their arrival. It's advisable to pick up your birds at the post office.
2. Upon the birds' arrival, be sure to keep them warm until they are placed in the brooding area. Open the shipping box only in a warm environment. Check the underside of the box lid for order content information.
3. As you take the birds from the box and place them in the pre-warmed brooding area, immediately dip each of their bills in the waterer to make sure that they drink promptly. Initially give lukewarm water with 1 tsp. honey or corn syrup per quart and chopped greens (described in #6). Do not give feed for as least an hour after giving birds water and greens. Thereafter, we recommend adding a water-soluble vitamin mix formulated for baby poultry to the water for the first 5 to 7 days. Because waterfowl drink more than twice as much water as chickens, use vitamin mixes at 1/2 the recommended rate for baby chicks. Never use REN-O SAL on ducks and geese.
4. ONLY use waterers that the birds can drink from easily BUT WHICH THEY CANNOT GET INTO AND GET SOAKED!
5. Supply the birds with fresh feed that has been formulated specifically for young poultry. In the order of preference, we recommend starting hatchlings on one of these feeds: duck starter or broiler starter (we highly recommend Purina's Flock Raiser ration when a duck/goose starter is unavailable). By themselves, chick starter is low in niacin, and turkey and gamebird starters are excessively high in protein (forcing young waterfowl to grow too fast). However, using a mix of 1 part chick starter and 1 part turkey of gamebird starter normally makes a good ration for baby waterfowl. Use only fresh feed and NEVER give laying rations to young waterfowl. In our experience, so-called "all purpose" or "triple duty" feeds normally are unsatisfactory if used as the sole ration for waterfowl during the first 8 weeks. We highly recommend the additional information on feeding and nutrition covered in Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks, The Book of Geese and Wing Disorders in Waterfowl.
6. Green feed (lettuce, spinach, tender young grass, etc.) chopped to 1/4-inch lengths and sprinkled in the water and on the feed helps get goslings as well as ducklings to eat quickly, and off to a fast start.
7. The correct brooding temperature is 90-92o F the first 3 days and 85-90o F for days 4 to7. Thereafter, drop the brooding temperature approximately 5o F per week. Birds must always be able to get away from the heat source to avoid the damaging effects of overheating.
8. Allow a minimum of 1/2 square foot of floor space for each duckling the first week, 1 square foot the second week, and 2 square feet to 4 weeks of age. Double these figures for goslings.
9. Do not start waterfowl on smooth floors (such as newspaper) which can cause spraddled legs. Wire mesh floor is ideal. If bedding is used, cover it with burlap or coarse cloth for the first day to prevent the birds from eating the litter while they learn what feed is.
10. Make sure the brooding area is draft-free and provides protection from predators, including rats, cats and dogs.
11. After arriving at their new home, your baby waterfowl need warmth, drinking water, fresh food and rest. Check on them regularly to make sure they are comfortable, but avoid handling them the first several days.
12. And most of all, enjoy your new charges. Ducklings and goslings are exceptionally hardy and fast growing, and watching their adolescent antics is entertaining. Happy duck and goose raising!
 
so i can never feed my goose layer not even a little bit? is it because it has to much calcium in it?
so what i understand its ok to start with none medicated feed and at 3 weeks use grower feed and then keep them on grower?
 
Goslings can't have too much calcium. Apparently it is dangerous for them.

The duck/goose feeds here are 22% starter and 18% grower. The finisher would be 16% but they do not have it here.
A few years ago, they did not have duck/goose food, but I think the demand has been growing. More people have ducks and geese now.

Before there was duck and goose food, I fed 20% chick starter and an 16% grower, which is pretty good.

Because there is no duck/goose finisher, I tend to either buy the finisher for chickens (which I think is about 14 or 15%), or feed them a mostly fresh food diet, which is good for them.

A fresh food diet can consist of:

Mixed veggies (peas, green beans, carrots, corn to a lesser degree), cooked brown rice, DRY quick cook or instant oatmeal (the smaller pieces; I find the whole ones are hard for them to digest); kale, romaine, red-leaf, green-leaf, swiss chard, etc, for lettuce, and pellets on the side. Plus, free-ranging for grass and weeds and other goodies is always extremely good for them.
 
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