Guinea Eggs: How many days incubation?

Hi Peeps I have another question. I was wondering what I could spray in guinea house to help with lice.? I don't have any but I do have alot of wild birds flying in and out and I am afraid I might get them. I do have two nest in the house with three hens on one nest and no one on the otber one yet. Did not want to use any thing that would hurt them and I figured if any one would know it would be you, Hope you can help me and thank in advance Peanut

If you want organic safe.... DE, (de-something earth) sprinkle it on roosts, in nests, in dust bath (along with ashes is good stuff!). Can even sprinkle it right on the birds. In thier food also helps with parasites. It's little tiny shells that custs up the lil varmits and completely safe for the birds, eggs, meat....

Yep, wood ashes work great (from a wood burning stove or a brush burn pile). Make your birds a tempting dust bath of sand and wood ash, and maybe some peat moss in their pen, run or free range area that they will use daily... they will dust themselves and you won't have to. Or if you want to use a less natural, and possibly more effective/preventative you can sprinkle a dusting of Sevin dust (garden dust for bug control on veggies) on the coop and run floor before you put down new bedding. Neem oil on the roosts works good for mite infestations (mites hide in all the little cracks and crevices during the day then get on the birds at night, but lice are on the birds and in the bedding usually 24/7). I find that an ash dust bathing spot keeps all of my birds mite and lice free all yr long tho.

IMO, Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is a waste of time. It's dangerous to breathe (even food grade) for both you and the birds, and it does nothing inside the bird once it's wet in the gut. It does have a useful purpose for controlling weevils in dry poultry feeds, but that's about the extent of it.
 
I haven't incubated eggs for over fifty years, but trying this year. I have all the equipment and the skills to operate it. I have done my reading. The one item I would like to have amplified a bit is is 'locking down'? That is a newterm to m. Can somewone enlighten me a bit?

Tks,
iplrs
 
The term lock-down (as in do not open) refers to the last 3 days of incubation when you should stop turning the eggs, raise the humidity and leave the eggs alone to hatch without opening the incubator until the hatch is complete, or you will lose heat and moisture, possibly damaging the hatching eggs.
 
Thank you, That's about what I surmised but it's nice to hear it from someone who has been there. I placed them in lockdown today, day 20. During the process of removing the eggs from the rocker unit, and placing them [the eggs] back in the incubator, I candled. I only used a fairly weak flashlight. About one third would not allow light to pass through the egg, The other two thirds showed a uniform clear condition. From this I surmise about one third [7 eggs] have the potential to hatch. Does this seem logical? iplrs
 
There are some awesome incubation threads on here with super pictures and great tips.

A high powered LED flashlight works well. Tactical with 200+ lumens for colored eggs.
You can see better in the egg and it dosen't throw heat.
Some will candle 3-4+ times.
Myself, about halfway through incubation and again prior to lockdown (3-5 days before hatch).
Halfway you can clearly see if anything developing, usually movement even. Toss the clears, blood rings - anything that isn't showing up close to stage it should be in. Some colored eggs are questionable and I'll note and let them ride.
I number the egg, trace the air cell with a pencil and weigh, noting.
Prior to locking down will again trace the aircell and weigh.
If no change in both - pitch. Rotten eggs exploding can poison your hatch - and NASTY!
Many of us are finding that a dry hatch, adding no water til the first pip to bring humidity to 60% is working best.
 
There are some awesome incubation threads on here with super pictures and great tips.

A high powered LED flashlight works well. Tactical with 200+ lumens for colored eggs.
You can see better in the egg and it dosen't throw heat.
Some will candle 3-4+ times.
Myself, about halfway through incubation and again prior to lockdown (3-5 days before hatch).
Halfway you can clearly see if anything developing, usually movement even. Toss the clears, blood rings - anything that isn't showing up close to stage it should be in. Some colored eggs are questionable and I'll note and let them ride.
I number the egg, trace the air cell with a pencil and weigh, noting.
Prior to locking down will again trace the aircell and weigh.
If no change in both - pitch. Rotten eggs exploding can poison your hatch - and NASTY!
Many of us are finding that a dry hatch, adding no water til the first pip to bring humidity to 60% is working best.
 
Isn't 8 days prior to hatching a little early for lockdown? Guineas have a 28 day incubation period. I candle my eggs periodically of course, but I start looking for slanted air sacs and/or internal pipping beginning on day 23. Am I doing it wrong?
 

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