Hainies Folly

Now I see the notch in the stud...maybe not notched deep enough?
(2) 2×6 are wider than the 2×3s. I don't have a power planner to thin one of the 2×6. I could have used a large antique hand plane but since the extra material will be inside coop it won't be a problem.

The top photo on post No.5 has the lath tacked in place around the window blocking the view of the jacks, or are they cripples? I don't remember do jacks support the end of the header and a cripple under the sill framing member?

I never got as far as laying out rafters. I could hold my own laying out and building stud walls, but thats really basic stuff.

The few guys my age that I know that stuck with framing for a career are pretty beat up. It's good hard work for a young person. I had fun. I mostly worked with or for friends from the neighborhood that were also in their early 20's.
 
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(2) 2×6 are wider than the 2×3s. I don't have a power planner to thin one of the 2×6. I could have used a large antique hand plane but since the extra material will be inside coop it won't be a problem.

The top photo on post No.5 has the lath tacked in place around the window blocking the view of the jacks, or are they cripples? I don't remember do jacks support the end of the header and a cripple under the sill framing member?

I never got as far as laying out rafters. I could hold my own laying out and building stud walls, but thats really basic stuff.

The few guys my age that I know that stuck with framing for a career are pretty beat up. It's good hard work for a young person. I had fun. I mostly worked with or for friends from the neighborhood that were also in their early 20's.
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Here is a better shot.
 
Finally cut most of the permanent rafters today. Cutting the notches or birds mouths took a while, it's been about 40yrs since I cut a birds mouth in a rafter.

I cut the 2×3 rafters to length on my 12" mitre saw. The ends were angled at 10½ degrees.

The Saw-z-All battery wasn't charged so I used an oscillating tool to make relief cuts in the birds mouths.
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It worked out well.
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Then I cleaned out each notch with a chisel.
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The rafter notches came out nice and unifom. The piece on the left was a practice cut on scrap.
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I set the rafters in place. All the top edges are on the same plain, so the roof shouldn't have any humps or sags. One rafter tail is about ⅛" longer than the rest. I'll trim that up tomorrow.

I ran out of 2×3s. I still need to cut the blocks and end rafters to form the overhang over the ends of the coop.

I'm aiming to get the roof finished tomorrow.

Have a Good One!
 
Penpal, Thank You for the kind words about our house. It was built of local red sandstone circa 1812.

The red comes from a iron content in the sandstone. Because of the abundance of easily mined iron ore, Pennsylvania's first iron furnace was built nearby in 1720. Our house has ties to a local iron furnace. While not located at the furnace site, it was built by the bookkeeper who commuted a few miles to the furnace.

Are those to keep a person from sliding off the roof and breaking his neck?

Actually the are to help prevent sheets of snow and ice from sliding off the metal roof and breaking a persons neck.

Thanks for reading my posts.
 
I finally got the roof installed.
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I did not get pictures of roof construction. I framed out the roof without screwing the rafters to the walls. Then put saw horses perpendicular to the long wall to the coop, under the low side of the roof.
. Next I slid the roof half-way off the coop so it was supported by the low long wall and the horses. This allowed me to put the roof sheeting on, line it up and install most of the screws without using a ladder.
Then I slid the sheeted roof back in place and screwed the rafters to the walls.

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The girls are curious about the coop. One of the girls already pooped in it.
 

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