Hands on hatching and help

The whole site is kinda wonky, so its not just you (this time...lol!)
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I decided I wanted to keep his daughters, frizzled and smooth ones, and get a smooth male from different blood lines, so I can have the "option" of getting frizzles or not. With Armand, I would not be able to keep any other frizzles at all, plus any hatchlings would have the possibility of being frizzled, so.....I've decided not to use him anymore.

Not to mention, he has taken a fancy to attacking my boots and is being a real butt lately (only to me!), so he kinda made his own deal
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Awe. Gotchya.

I'm having a hard time uploading pictures for some reason, but I will try to explain what is going on. (I'm clicking to add a picture from my computer, but it just stays in a constant state of "loading" and won't let me add) I have 3 Serama eggs that made it to lockdown 2 days ago. I started out with 6, but three were already past the 10 day mark and didn't make it very far, or not at all. My incubator is a still air and I've been keeping it dry for the first 18 days due to high humidity here in Southeast Texas. Dry it stays around 50%. The temperature has been steady at around 99.5-100 degrees. From everything I've read, Seramas tend to come a little earlier due to their size. On day 18, I upped the humidity to roughly 65-75%,...I just put a sponge in with water on it and it is still very hard to keep it at 65-75% without it trying to go to 80% due to our natural humidity here. Today is day 20 and still nothing. No cheeps signaling any internal pips or anything. I decided to crack the incubator open since my humidity was already so high and I kept a spray bottle with warm water on hand if I needed to spray inside. I candled and I can tell that two are DIS. UGHHHHHHHH....@!!! :( One is still alive though with good veins, but why hasn't it even internally pipped? What is going on? I've been monitoring everything like a hawk for the past three weeks and this is soooo discouraging. Is there anything at all I can do to help this one little lone survivor still in his/her shell?
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No temp spikes that I know of and I monitored quite closely. Okay, hovered may be a better word choice. These eggs were not shipped to me, I picked them up local and the mother and father seemed to be quite healthy, owned by an experienced breeder. The day I picked up she had a newly hatched Serama in her incubator. Honestly, I feel quite ill right now. I feel a sense of dread because I soooo want that lone little chicky to hatch, but I don't have high hopes since I didn't even see an internal pip at the beginning of day 20. And yes, I understand that regualar chicken eggs hatch around day 21, but I keep being told with the Seramas that it is more likely that they would be early due to their tiny size.
While bantam breed chicks CAN and OFTEN do hatch early, that does not necessarily mean that they WILL. If you are running a still air and using forced air temps, I wouldn't count on them being early. Still air recommendation is actually 101-102 with the temps taken near the tops of the eggs. However, running it at 100 would most likely just delay the hatch. Like WV said, any breeds with the creeper gene (short legged) has a DIS expectation, if the parents were both short legged, of 25%. I would give it another day or two, especially with a slightly lower temp, for the last one to make an attempt.

Well, I just did a completely assisted hatch. I know it was hatch day and not actually late but I knew something was wrong. When I candled I had four very late DIS - one malposition and the rest too big to pip and hatch on their own.

The last one however was still moving so I decided to go in. Once in there I found it internally pipped away from the air cell because it had been too big to get into position properly. It started gasping for breath the second I opened everything up so it was very very close to suffocating.

All the veins looks good so I went for the full assist. Its navel is still a little more open than I'd like so it's currently sitting in the bottom half of its shell in a cup to finish closing up. I'm so glad I decided to go with my gut feeling that something was wrong and opened that egg up.
WOW!!!

Hovered lol.

Just checked my notes and I locked down 16, hatched 11, 5 DIS. First one pipped near the beginning of day 19, but didn't hatch for 22 hours, on day 20. The first hatcher (wasn't the first pipper) hatched around the beginning of day 20 only 12 hours after pip, but I ran my temps 100-100.5. Oh! You said still air! Those need a little higher temp, more like 101-102, so that could account for the delay.

I would assume an experienced breeder would not have bred 2 short legs together, so that was my other guess as to possible issue.

Was your thermometer and hygrometer tested for accuracy?
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Not a dumb question! The internal membrane had pulled away from the shell where it internally pipped just a little tiny bit and had created a very small air pocket. When candling it didn't even look like it was internally pipped.

It's still pretty weak so I'm not getting my hopes up yet that it's actually going to pull through.
I've had this happen a couple of times! Of course I found it upon eggtopsy. Where there were no signs of an internal pip but upon removing the shell there was a pip into the membrane where it had pulled away from the shell, but wasn't in the air cell. As a matter of fact one of those green eggs that I put in with the silkie hatch that hadn't turned had actually pipped through the membrane at the bottom where it was pulled away, but never made it through the shell and drowned on the extra fluid in there.

Yes, I tested my thermometer and hygrometer. At the beginning, I found so many conflicting claims as to what temperature I should set my still air at for Seramas that I went with the normal because I didn't want it too low and I didn't want to cook them, lol. I really wish there was more information available specifically for Seramas. Now I feel like I've killed my babies because I didn't have a higher temperature! Aghhhh!!! I will keep an eye out for this last one, but my gut is churning so I'm not too hopeful.
Don't beat yourself up. The slightly lower temps usually delay them, but it wasn't significantly low. Stay hopeful and keep us updated, please.
 
Yes, I tested my thermometer and hygrometer. At the beginning, I found so many conflicting claims as to what temperature I should set my still air at for Seramas that I went with the normal because I didn't want it too low and I didn't want to cook them, lol. I really wish there was more information available specifically for Seramas. Now I feel like I've killed my babies because I didn't have a higher temperature! Aghhhh!!! I will keep an eye out for this last one, but my gut is churning so I'm not too hopeful. 


Look at it this way, local eggs, try again! Don't blame yourself. These kinds of things are alot of what brings folks here. It did me! We learn from our mistakes and try to improve next time.

But I still have faith this last one of yours can make it. Give it a little more time. :fl
 
Not a dumb question! The internal membrane had pulled away from the shell where it internally pipped just a little tiny bit and had created a very small air pocket. When candling it didn't even look like it was internally pipped.

It's still pretty weak so I'm not getting my hopes up yet that it's actually going to pull through.


Never had one do that. Or at least not one that I've seen. Thanks.
 

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