Hands on hatching and help

I've assisted in 4 hatches.
The first assisted was because the serama was shrink wrapped. He piped and never zipped. He has gone on to be very healthy.
The second assisted just needed a little bit of shell chipped away and within hour did rest by himself.
The third ended up having slightly curled toes but is thriving. That one probably is when I decided to stop helping because I blame myself it was hatched with slightly deformed feet.

I had devastating hatch where I refused to open incubator and watched a chick pip and was a chatterbox. I left it in the incubator and noticed no change but still chatty. But 24 hours later it got weaker and still hadn't zipped. He slowly died. Turned out he was real big and couldn't get the leverage to zip. It really bugged me witnessing it slowly die... so I panicked and helped another but it wasn't quite ready to receive help... and my worry lead to its early demise.
Curled feet, is not something assisting causes.
Assisting-successfully assisting depends mostly on timing and reason. As you've seen, assisting too early can be a quicker death sentence than assisting too late.
Set guidelines for yourself. My guidelines are not to start a full on assist until about 24 hours after pip. (Unless there's signs of distress from the chick.) But, if there are any significant veining at any point, stop and replace, no matter how long it has been. If the vascular system between egg and chick has not shut down, assisting will only harm, not help.
I'm not a big one for going into an unpipped shell, but if I've had a internal pip for over 24 hours I will on occasion add a safety hole. If I do this, I give them longer than 24 for progression to zip. I don't go into an egg without at least an internal pip, and only then for a safety hole.
The other big factor of success is the why. If the eggs are on day 24 and not hatching on their own, chances of assisting successfully and having healthy thriving chicks are much much lower. Delayed development/hatch often denotes weak, failure to thrive chicks. Not saying one shouldn't try to help if so chooses, just to expect a lower success rate. Assists being done on chicks that have deformities, abnormalities (other than splay leg/curled toes) have a lower success rate and a higher need to cull rate. But, often it is not known until after assist that these problems exist.
Willingness to assist has to carry a certain willingness to cull if needed and to be able to accept the outcome without second guessing yourself. You can drive yourself crazy with "if I hadn't assisted would it have made it" or "if only I assisted maybe it would have"... you just have to accept the outcome and use it as a learning experience.
Assisting an on time pipper because of membranes drying, malpositioning, large chicks unable to turn, large vaults on crested chicks, etc, are usually successful assists if done correctly, at the right time.
 
View attachment 1051188 View attachment 1051189 View attachment 1051190 So, I sold a couple juvenile silkies last week. A blue cockerel and a paint I believe to be a pullet, but too early to know for sure, but she was willing to chance it. The two paints that were supposed to be sold and the girl stiffed me on have turned into gorgeous birds. One I'm pretty positive is a pullet, the other I think is as well, just not as 100% certain...lol They are 14 weeks today. I think I've decided, since I didn't want to add anymore paints because I want to concentrate on blues/splash, that I am replacing two of my previous paint hens that don't have nearly the crests these two do with the two 14 week olds. The girl that bought the juvie pair wants them if I sell them she said. Have to share a couple pics of my 14 week olds. One of them only has the tiniest black spot on her head...lol Other than that, you wouldn't guess it was a paint...lol
The pic that has sold on it was the pair I sold.

Your birds are beautiful !
 
Curled feet, is not something assisting causes.
Assisting-successfully assisting depends mostly on timing and reason. As you've seen, assisting too early can be a quicker death sentence than assisting too late.
Set guidelines for yourself. My guidelines are not to start a full on assist until about 24 hours after pip. (Unless there's signs of distress from the chick.) But, if there are any significant veining at any point, stop and replace, no matter how long it has been. If the vascular system between egg and chick has not shut down, assisting will only harm, not help.
I'm not a big one for going into an unpipped shell, but if I've had a internal pip for over 24 hours I will on occasion add a safety hole. If I do this, I give them longer than 24 for progression to zip. I don't go into an egg without at least an internal pip, and only then for a safety hole.
The other big factor of success is the why. If the eggs are on day 24 and not hatching on their own, chances of assisting successfully and having healthy thriving chicks are much much lower. Delayed development/hatch often denotes weak, failure to thrive chicks. Not saying one shouldn't try to help if so chooses, just to expect a lower success rate. Assists being done on chicks that have deformities, abnormalities (other than splay leg/curled toes) have a lower success rate and a higher need to cull rate. But, often it is not known until after assist that these problems exist.
Willingness to assist has to carry a certain willingness to cull if needed and to be able to accept the outcome without second guessing yourself. You can drive yourself crazy with "if I hadn't assisted would it have made it" or "if only I assisted maybe it would have"... you just have to accept the outcome and use it as a learning experience.
Assisting an on time pipper because of membranes drying, malpositioning, large chicks unable to turn, large vaults on crested chicks, etc, are usually successful assists if done correctly, at the right time.

AmyLynn, you have said this beautifully. I think most of us that intervene have been in similar situations.

-- I did recently realize that severe saddled air cells can confuse me and look like a chick has internally pipped. For this reason, I've taken more effort in healing air cells with increased humidity, as able.
 
I have a muscovy egg that internally pipped, I think, this past Saturday night. When I candled, I saw the beak almost touching the shell, and a foot. Never seen that before. So, last night it looked as though it hadn't moved any, if anything, there was more visible foot and the beak/bill was further away. So there are air holes in case it couldn't position to pip. I'm very hesitant to help since all other muscovy I've hatched usually take FOREVER! Its like a 3-4day process. I would have expected an external pip this morning, maybe evening but Theres no was it will be able to. So, I was thinking ill leave it be until tomorrow morning and see if the veins draw back any and possibly start cracking the egg open. Suggestions??
 
Hi, I have a broody duck who has been sitting on 13 eggs. Today is day 28. The mother got off of the nest for about 5 minutes to eat and swim this morning, so I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to see if any eggs were hatching. Well, all 13 had pipped but one egg was squashed. The duckling was still alive so I brought it inside and moistened the membrane with coconut oil and stuck it in the incubator. There are still some veins in the membrane and the duckling has been yawning so I don't think it's ready to hatch yet, but the top of the egg is gone and the duckling keeps trying to push out of the egg. I don't know what to do. It might not get out, but if it does what should I do if it starts bleeding or has unabsorbed yolk?

squashedegg2.jpg


squashedegg1.jpg
 

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