Happy Days... NOT

[Mourningdove]

Quote:
I hadn't ever heard of this either & so Thank you! And now is this something you normally feed your chickens or just if they're ill? It seems to me the wet mash isn't anything that would be hurtful & if it keeps them from worms it's a plus all around & so I wondered do you do this as a preventative measure?

Hi there, I haven't heard of this either and I just wrote this recipe down for future refrence! Now none of my chicks or chickens are sick so for learning sake could you please post a thread for this topic for us newbies?

Also I would like to know where to find the signs and symptoms for this? How would a healthy group of birds get this if no new birds are carried in? Forgive my ignorance please!

 

[Year of the Rooster]

Quote:
That is absolutely not true.

Yes, not true.

People want to wait a few weeks after worming because the medications get in the egg and should not be consumed, unless by a natural wormer like pumpkin seeds.

 

[stairman]

My only thought on the Brahma is if it is a little chick ? It probably did get to cold. It takes chicks awhile to warm back up.

Some Baby chicks and even grown chickens do not handle cold very well. I had some that seemed like they were in shock because they got so cold.

I had a light that burned out during the night that was used to keep them warm.
I'm so glad I checked on them early the next morning, I brought them in the house and used a blow dryer to warm them.

I sure hope ever one pulls through just fine. Keep us posted.


But as far as Brahams go you should do really well raising those. Braham's are cold and hot weathered birds.

I'm waiting for my Light Brahams to hatch in a few days. I live in Oklahoma and it is starting to warm up here now. Yeah! We have had so much rain. I believe it is the cause of some of the illnesses with my bunch. Keeping them warm and dry became a big problem. I've lost 12 out of 30. I still have 6 under quarantine.

 

[deerman]

Quote:
That is absolutely not true.

Yes, not true.

People want to wait a few weeks after worming because the medications get in the egg and should not be consumed, unless by a natural wormer like pumpkin seeds.

Depend on what you worm with, ivomec would not eat the eggs. Remember if kills anything feeding on the birds. Lices, worms,and etc.

 

[patyrdz]

I'm sorry you went through this! I know the feeling when a post goes unanswered! but people do care. I just saw this thread today! I'm a bit slow sometimes.

I hope everything works out for you. Sometimes it seems like everything happens at once and it can be very upsetting! Again I am sorry!

 

[Glenda L Heywood]

Quote:
Yes, not true.

People want to wait a few weeks after worming because the medications get in the egg and should not be consumed, unless by a natural wormer like pumpkin seeds.

Depend on what you worm with, ivomec would not eat the eggs. Remember if kills anything feeding on the birds. Lices, worms,and etc.

Glenda L Said this now
First pumpkin seed does not worm chickens but is a tasty seed for chickens
and I used chemical wormers and was not thinking of eating any of the eggs
just healthy chickens that were fertile
chemical wormers do decrease the fertility about 6 weeks

I do not see what I said you all have a problem with

I was speaking of the time to worm chickens as a yrly worming so as to have worm free hens and roosters for laying and fertilizing the eggs for the hatcher

I was not speaking of the eggs not being able to eat them period

that is a given fact that you can not eat eggs from chemicle wormed chickns for two weeks

I was speaking as to the hens and roosters being fertile to lay and fetilize eggs for the incubator

what was the comments
"that is not true"?

I definetly know it is true
having 200 adult breeders for hatching season was a must to have them physically ready to breed

****We hatched 3500 chicks for decades.
Chemical wormers like ivermectin get the worm larvea in the blood stream and the adult worms in the gut at the time of worming

***that is what I was concerned about
as if wormy the chickens lay and breed poorly as the worms live on the food given the chickens and it does not leave much for the chicken to live and lay eggs on

We did not eat the eggs of our bantams just collected them for breeding and hatching

so those who thought something else PLEASE email me the thoughts so I can straighten out the mistake I made
PM me as I am on line right now

 

[Far North Queenslander]

Quote:
Many different diseases of chickens show identical symptoms which makes accurate diagnosis very hard
Coccidiosis is caused by coccidia (genus Eimeria), which are single celled parasites that live in the gut wall of their host. They are host specific: turkeys and other species are not infected by fowl coccidia and vice-versa. The different species of coccidia live in different parts of the gut and can be divided into those causing intestinal coccidiosis (the majority) or caecal coccidiosis (one species).

Coccidiosis Caecal Symptoms
In chicks or young birds, droopiness, huddling with ruffled feathers, loss of appetite, retarded growth, and bloody diarrhoea in early stages
It affects their cecum
Mortality is high
Spread from contact with droppings of infected birds. Spread on used equipment, feed sacks, feet o humans and wild birds
An important symptom is blood around the vent or bloody diarrhea

Coccidiosis Intestinal Symptoms
Affects growing or semi mature birds, droopiness, huddling with ruffled feathers, loss in interest in water and feed, retarded growth or weight loss, watery, moucousy, or pasty, tan or blood tinged diarrrhea, sometimes emaciation and dehydration
In mature birds; thin breast, weak legs, drop in laying, sometimes diarrrhea
If affects their intestinal tract
Mortality is limited to high
Spread from droppings of infected birds; spread on used equipment, feed sacks feet of humans and wild birds
An important symptom is blood around the vent or bloody diarrhea

Treatment:
1-teaspoon amprolium (20 percent) per gallon drinking water for 5 days (this is not an antibiotic)
A broad spectrum antibiotic to guard against secondary infections (yoghurt will restore the gut flora of the bird and make this more effective).
Follow this treatment with a multi vitamin supplement (especially A and K)
a regular dose of garlic in their feed also helps and is a great natural wormer.

Spread of the disease
Outbreaks are most common after wet weather or in damp conditions as it activates the oocysts in the soil.
Damp or contaminated litter and overcrowding favour its development.
Most commercial chick starters contain a drug that inhibits coccidiosis, but unless a clean, dry environment is maintained outbreaks can occur. Birds fed diets without preventative drugs are particularly at risk so clean dry litter and adequate space are especially important
If you have soil in your coop turn it, but don’t allow dust to blow everywhere, as this will spread the disease. Sprinkling hydrated lime onto the soil and raking it into the dirt will help to eradicated the problem.

Coccidiosis is spread when one bird eats faecal material from an infected bird, which contains the infective stage of the coccidia (small egg-like bodies called oocysts). Oocysts are ingested when birds scratch and peck at the litter or consume contaminated feed or water. The oocysts in the droppings need moisture and warmth to mature before they can infect other birds, and can do so very quickly (24 hr). Oocysts can remain alive in poultry sheds for more than a year and are very resistant to most disinfectants.

Each oocyst breaks down in the gut to release parasites that multiply into thousands, damaging the gut and causing disease that may lead to the fowl's death.

Beginning five to seven days after infection, thousands of oocysts pass out in the droppings of the bird to continue the life cycle. It is impossible to prevent this spread unless birds are housed so that they have no contact with faeces.

Antibiotics don’t cure Coccidiosis, just help stop the possibility of a secondary infection taking hold of your bird, which is often what ends up killing it.

 

[Mourningdove]

Thank You so very, very much for taking the time to really explain this to me. I have heard about this disease and I never knew what it was! You have explained it so very well and again I thank you!

I am still pretty new to chickens, and do I ever love my feathered friends, and I sure don't want any getting sick!
We have had massive amounts of rain here lately and their coops and runs are very damp and smelly right now, and I was worried.
So if it ever drys up here I have alot of coop & run cleaning to do?
I also should use lime as a precaution?

 

[Year of the Rooster]

Quote:
Depend on what you worm with, ivomec would not eat the eggs. Remember if kills anything feeding on the birds. Lices, worms,and etc.

Glenda L Said this now
First pumpkin seed does not worm chickens but is a tasty seed for chickens
and I used chemical wormers and was not thinking of eating any of the eggs
just healthy chickens that were fertile
chemical wormers do decrease the fertility about 6 weeks

I do not see what I said you all have a problem with

I was speaking of the time to worm chickens as a yrly worming so as to have worm free hens and roosters for laying and fertilizing the eggs for the hatcher

I was not speaking of the eggs not being able to eat them period

that is a given fact that you can not eat eggs from chemicle wormed chickns for two weeks

I was speaking as to the hens and roosters being fertile to lay and fetilize eggs for the incubator

what was the comments
"that is not true"?

I definetly know it is true
having 200 adult breeders for hatching season was a must to have them physically ready to breed

****We hatched 3500 chicks for decades.
Chemical wormers like ivermectin get the worm larvea in the blood stream and the adult worms in the gut at the time of worming

***that is what I was concerned about
as if wormy the chickens lay and breed poorly as the worms live on the food given the chickens and it does not leave much for the chicken to live and lay eggs on

We did not eat the eggs of our bantams just collected them for breeding and hatching

so those who thought something else PLEASE email me the thoughts so I can straighten out the mistake I made
PM me as I am on line right now

One thing you didn't explain though:

Do you know if the de-wormers actually lower fertility? From what I read, I didn't get that message. Have you actually tried hatching eggs from birds being dewormed?

Decades huh? Well.. I guess times are changing in some ways. Also, please explain why pumpkin seeds are not dewormers. As many people have had success using them on here.

 

[halo]

Quote:
That is absolutely not true.

Okay, let me try this one more time. You said

a person wants to worm them at least 8 weeks before laying eggs to hatch as it makes them non fertile for a few weeks

Worming does not make eggs non fertile. I have brooders full of chicks to prove otherwise. When I worm my chickens, I dont eat or sell any of those eggs for a week, I incubate them, at a very high percentage of hatching.