hatching experiment home made

Everything with temperature depends on duration. After incubation has started, for the first 12 days, extremes of temperature are likely to cause serious developmental defects. From 12-16 days, successful hatch becomes less likely however swings of 5F above or below the safe range of 99-102 are generally fatal if they last more than an hour or two (long enough to raise the internal temp above 102 or drop it below 99). The higher or lower the temp, the shorter the tolerance.

Chicks that do survive may have early challenges.
 
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Everything with temperature depends on duration. After incubation has started, for the first 12 days, extremes of temperature are likely to cause serious developmental defects. From 12-16 days, successful hatch becomes less likely however swings of 5F above or below the safe range of 99-102 are generally fatal if they last more than an hour or two (long enough to raise the internal temp above 102 or drop it below 99). The higher or lower the temp, the shorter the tolerance.

Chicks that do survive may have early challenges.
is this correct info? I was thinking I read that 99-100 was good and 120 was big bad but I have too look for temps again.
I did find this..


The generally accepted temperature for incubating almost all birds eggs is between 99.5 and 100.0 degrees F (37.5-37.8 C). Slight variations around this temperature range is alright, but varying more than a degree up or down for extended periods of time can have an impact on your hatch rate, cause birth defects and even cause the eggs not to hatch. A few of the exceptions to this temperature range would be for Emu and Ostrich eggs.

Place warm water into the humidity pan, and adjust the heat source until the incubator temperature stays between 99° and 102° F. Check the thermometer frequently for at least 24 hours before you incubate to be sure it will stay at the correct temperature.
 
99-100 is best for incubators with fans. 100-101 is best for still air incubators, as only the top of the eggs are warmed and the bottom is cooler so the temperatures average out.

101-102 will lead to earlier hatches and sometimes more hatching issues.
98-99 will lead to later hatches and often more hatching issues.
Below 98 and above 102 may result in hatches but results will be less than ideal, including failure to incubate or dead in the shell before hatch, weak chicks, or chicks with deformities.
 
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99-100 is best for incubators with fans. 100-101 is best for still air incubators, as only the top of the eggs are warmed and the bottom is cooler so the temperatures average out.

101-102 will lead to earlier hatches and sometimes more hatching issues.
98-99 will lead to later hatches and often more hatching issues.
Below 98 and above 102 may result in hatches but results will be less than ideal, including failure to incubate or dead in the shell before hatch, weak chicks, or chicks with deformities.
okay well I don't have a fan and noticed when I increased my water under eggs and light the temp rose and I had to adjust is that a figment of my imagination? I do know that we are having a cold spell and our heater comes on periodically so I been checking that and sofar t its done pretty good where I have it located.

okay sooooo yesterday all day and night temp was between 100- 108 give or take a few from the time eggs were set in, that being the short time might not hurt?? I don't have a fan in my box. according to this site http://www.extension.umn.edu/food/small-farms/livestock/poultry/hatching-and-brooding-small-numbers/ that shouldn't be all that bad.
"Humidity–The moisture level in the incubator should be about 50 to 55 percent relative humidity, with an increase to about 65 percent for the last 3 days of incubation. Moisture is provided by a pan of water under the egg tray. The water surface should be at least half as large as the surface of the egg tray. Add warm water to the pan as necessary. If more humidity is needed, increase the size of the pan or add a wet sponge. Humidity adjustment can also be made by increasing or decreasing ventilation."
I think I have the correct pan size for my box and the ventilation is a must since my 60wt bulb is in such a small area ..by sheer luck!
I have two thermometers one at top of box and one down at angle where my eggs are. they seem pretty consistent of one another varying by one degree if that. one thing I plan to get is a humidity thermometer but incae that dosnt happen soon enough if im keeping this tray full then I shouldn't have issues with hatch.. the ventilation will keep any condensation from happening but I don't know how much humidity is accually still present. I put a bowl of water right in the center of the eggs today I don't know that its needed or if its too much really the water seems less effected by heat as the one under the eggs that's closer to light.
 
That suggested humidity is way too high unless you live in the desert. Start with ambient room humidity and ONLY worry about it if at first candle around day 7 the air cell is way too big. Be careful about messing with the ventilation. It can be really hard to tune your thermostat if sometimes cool air comes in and sometimes not. I always leave some ventilation, mostly by not tightly sealing up the cabinet.

108 is always bad. If the air in front of your bulb hit 108 for a short time, fine. But if the air over the eggs hit 108, it's not good, especially early in development. Ideally you'd downsize your bulb so it doesn't heat so dramatically.
 
That suggested humidity is way too high unless you live in the desert. Start with ambient room humidity and ONLY worry about it if at first candle around day 7 the air cell is way too big. Be careful about messing with the ventilation. It can be really hard to tune your thermostat if sometimes cool air comes in and sometimes not. I always leave some ventilation, mostly by not tightly sealing up the cabinet.

108 is always bad. If the air in front of your bulb hit 108 for a short time, fine. But if the air over the eggs hit 108, it's not good, especially early in development. Ideally you'd downsize your bulb so it doesn't heat so dramatically.
eeeks well maybe not so good then.. but looking at egg development id say the eggs I have on the 20th are maybe behind? the air sack seems a bit smaller in them and considerably smaller in the other could that be a dud?
my biggest issue will be humidity because I don't know what it is to control it no gage and the heat verses the ventilation. my bulb is too hot 60wt heats up hotter than 110 all closed up I have to leave the door open so the eggs don't cook slowly. im sure that messes with humidity but I cant tell by how much ... feel like im flying by the seat of my pants even though I had read up on things before doing all this actually doing it springs up new questions. lol
 
Try a 25w bulb. You need to be able to leave your incubator closed. If 25w is too much, try a smaller bulb. You really don't want to use a bigger box if you don't have a fan, because you will have hot and cold spots.

For the air cells, each egg will lose moisture depending on how porous the shell, whether it's cracked or chipped, how old when set, storage conditions before setting, if it was washed, and how much it has been handled with bare hands. Air cell development isn't like a win/lose, it's a better/worse. Proper air cell development improves the chick's odds of survival.
 
Try a 25w bulb. You need to be able to leave your incubator closed. If 25w is too much, try a smaller bulb. You really don't want to use a bigger box if you don't have a fan, because you will have hot and cold spots.

For the air cells, each egg will lose moisture depending on how porous the shell, whether it's cracked or chipped, how old when set, storage conditions before setting, if it was washed, and how much it has been handled with bare hands. Air cell development isn't like a win/lose, it's a better/worse. Proper air cell development improves the chick's odds of survival.

ill have to look for a bulb then or get one. chances be better that way
 

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