Hatching Shipped Eggs ?s

This one looks great.

This one looks like a quitter. If when you move the egg side to side, the growth moves with it, and just floats instead of moving on it's own, it's pretty sure a quitter.  As long as it doesn't stink or leak you can leave them in a few more days to be 100%
Ok great thanks! If I were to assist, which sounds very nerve racking is there a way just to make a little hole in the shell into the aircell for the chick to get acceptable oxygen and then let it do the rest?
 
Ok great thanks! If I were to assist, which sounds very nerve racking is there a way just to make a little hole in the shell into the aircell for the chick to get acceptable oxygen and then let it do the rest?


Depends on what is hindering the chick. If the beak can't make contact with the shell you will still have to do the brunt of the work.
If a chick does need help and you decide you are willing to assist. You will need;
a small sharp drilling implementation
tweezers
Warm water and or olive oil
Q-tips
Corn starch

If the chick has been internally piped for more than 20 hrs, but has not externally piped I would open up the air cell so you can see what is happening with the chick
400

I mark the edge of the air cell before lock down so I know where I can safely help.
Drill into the air cell using your fingers to turn the drill bit. Then nibble at the hole with the tweezers until you have access to the chick.
Wet the membrane with warm water or olive oil. Then put back in the incubator for about two hours. Then remoisten the membrane. If the chick still isn't progressing you can chip away more of the shell. If you ever see blood dab corn starch on the bleed and put back into the incubator for another 2 hrs to let bleeding stop and let the vessels recede.
Once you have started the membrane needs to be moistened at least every two hours
I like olive oil because I feel like I can see the veins better with the oil vs. water. I also limit the time the egg is out of the incubator to 5-10min. Max then put it back in to warm up for an hour and start again. Never pull the chick out of the egg, but you can peel the membrane off the chick if need be.

Hopefully you won't need any of this info, but I'm really kicking myself for not being more proactive with my hatch last week and want you to be able to not hesitate if you think there is something going wrong.

If you haven't already you should join us in the September hatch along.
Good luck!!!
 
Ok great thanks! If I were to assist, which sounds very nerve racking is there a way just to make a little hole in the shell into the aircell for the chick to get acceptable oxygen and then let it do the rest?
You can put a safety hole in the shell into the air cell to allow for the chick to have extended amount of air. This can help, but it can also slow down the hatching process by letting the co2 out. Chicks progress from internal to external when the co2 builds up in the egg prompting the spasms that cause the chick to progress. When you tap into the air cell this keeps that phase from happening.

I have admittingly done a "safety hole" on a couple different eggs, but only after 24 hours passed. And after the safety hole I waited until the chick progressed itself before I started counting hours of when it pipped. Often chicks will exceed the 24 hours after an internal pip and still hatch fine on their own. It all depends how hands on you want to be. Remember, the more exposed membrane you have, the higher the chance of it drying out and causing further complications. Once an external pip happens, it can still take 24 hours+ before they progress to the zip. Helping can only be dones safely once the vascular system between the chick and egg has taken place so that you don't cause bleed out by rupturing a bunch of veins.

Now, if there is something that is hindering the chick from being able to progress and zip then an assist is the next step.
 

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