Havahart trap junk

[nova022]

I purchased a live trap from TSC the weekend after Thanksgiving and it is not worth a hoot. I am sure the raccoons are sitting in the tree laughing every time I bring them their free lunch. My 30 lb dog was able to go into the trap, retrieve the bait and exit the trap without it springing it. I tested it with a stick when he came out and it closed properly. I don't believe it was a have a heart, but some off brand they brought in for the sale. You definitely get what you pay for.

 

[NovaAman]

We had a coon or two... get into my silkie coop. We set the neighbors trap 3 nights in a row. All three nights, the trap was sprung, but what ever it caugh was able to get out of the trap in its panic, all three nights. I got a Duke trap, stuffed it with chicken meat, put strawberry jelly around the hole, and also set the hav-a-hart... The hav-a-hart was triggered, nothing in it, bait gone. The duke trap though... caught one of the biggest coons we have ever seen. Applied the Triple S techinique. The coon weighed 27 pounds! Maybe we just needed a bigger hav-a-hart... I dunno... BUT I will pretty much set both traps... The duke is the better one though.

 

[Oregon Blues]

Apparently, OP, you trapped a raccoon that someone else had already trapped and relocated to the landfill. Once they have been trapped and released, they become trap wise and nearly impossible to trap and hold again. Since you claim to be training raccoons about traps because you are doing catch and release. I suspect it was simply Karma that you now have a large raccoon that can't be trapped.

 

[Greyfox Farm]

I would be interested in the dp trap. Where would I be able to purchase and would you explain what prevents a cat or dog from being trapped?

F&T trapping supplies is where I buy my trapping gear. They're out of Minnesota and have a nice website.

The trap is a steel tube that spikes to the ground. They run less than $15 each. At the top of the tube is a spring-loaded loop that, when tripped, snaps down on the wrist of the coon. The genius part is the trigger. The trigger is at the bottom on the tube and it releases the wire when it's lifted UP. A raccoon reaches in for a marshmallow or sardine and pulls up on it, firing the trap. The trap is wired to a stake in the ground, a near by tree, or to a "drag", which is just a heavy log that he can't haul very far. The cool thing is that a dog might put his paw into the trap, but he'd be pushing DOWN, so the trap wouldn't fire in a million years. It must be lifted UP, as by the gripping paw of a raccoon. Use marshmallows as bait and a cat would have no interest. They require a good bit of hand strength to set, so you might want to also purchase a setting tool with these. It's just a simple lever-like device that gives you some mechanical advantage cocking the spring mechanism. I keep one or two DP's set 24/7/52 near the coop. I seem to get a new coon every three months or so.

Another tip, coon are inquisitive. Place a shiny can, piece of tin foil, or a CD on a string near the trap and if there's a little breeze it flashes. A coon will come off a run to see what the shiney attraction is, find the marshmallow-baited trap, and CLICK! I use this rather than a scent attractant since I'm not trying to call coon in from the woods, I just want to eliminate ones that get within close proximity of the coop. Good hunting, keep those girls safe.

 

[nova022]

Where did you get your Duke Trap?

 

[nova022]

Thanks Greyfox, you have answered all my questions and this sounds exactly the thing for me. I have seen two raccoons that travel together. If one is caught will the other one become weary of the trap? Should I set two traps in hopes of catching them both the same night?

 

[Greyfox Farm]

I've never caught two at once, so I'm not sure if one would "learn" from the others misfortune or not. The traps are cheap enough so I'd set both. Keep them far enough away from each other that the don't' entangle if you do catch two. Once caught they'll try to run/climb/dig, do anything they can to get away, so they'll make quite a mess of the catch site. A quick head shot with a .22 or .17HMR and the "relocation" is complete. Best of luck.

 

[Mattemma]

I have a 1089 havahart since last summer. I zip tied one end.After 40+ coons,possums,squirrels,groundhogs,and rabbits I am pleased that there is just one little square that is bent on the metal cage. Mine have sat all night plus a few while I take the kids to school.They really tried to get out,but the cage held.

I have read that quality is down on many traps. Got one from harbor freight one year that was a complete joke.Best wishes with the trapping.

 

[Dustinnvnorth]

Dog proof traps, cuff trap, etc is like a metal tube that a coon reaches into to get the bait. When they touch the trigger in the other end a strong loop bar comes out of the side and pins their leg to the side of the pipe. As long as the trap is anchored well it wont pull out. They are strong.

The havahart trap was breached by an animal by pulling the door hinge from the top of the trap. I reattached it with a bunch of bolt on cable clamps. It wont be pulled apart there.

I dont know for sure it was a coon. We have a lot of them though. Coons are big, smart and strong. Its by far the most likely vermin here.

 

[Dustinnvnorth]

Oregon blue - Coons relocated from here to the land fill take a trip in a plastic bag They dont cause problems for any one again.

My cuff trap came from the sporting goods store.

The trap was a genuine Havahart. Works great on kittys but the door attachment was weak for higher level animals.