heating rope for bators - UPDATE: Back to lightbulb :(

I actually went back to the light for heat method because you can visually see what the heat is doing, I lost a lot of confidence in the heating element. However i did junk the thermostat for a dimmer switch and 2 40 watt slim bulbs on near to lowest setting kept the temp around 98-103. Sometimes it would go to 106 or down 89, this was all because of ambient heating, so now I have modified an electronic thermostat like this
bator3rd-6.jpg

The new thermostat cost les than $10 and the variable is around .2-.4 degrees, 2 thermometers show 100.2 and one shows 99.9. 1 thing to note, while i never had lights on the old thermostat (hot water one) the new one turns the lights on every 3 seconds, on for three, off for three, on for three, off for three, making small adjustments along the way, where as the old thermostat used to take a few minutes to turn on then a few more to turn off.
My next incubator will have a 3 chamber design, the top will house a larger fan with a heating element, the water trays will also be housed in there, being on top I can easily make the vent tubes double up as water fillers. Then the hot humidified air will be baffled down the side of the box to a lower chamber, this will even heat out through the box and then pull the hot air across and under the eggs, then it will flow into a side venturi to be baffled back to the top chamber. This should ensue constant temperature with ease of clean up, viewing, adjustability and also be large enough to house an auto turner. The added bonus is besause the air will be forced around the box, I can use the lower chamber for a hatcher as i will be abale to divert the air flow just to the lower chamber if needed.
My biggest leap forward was a decient thermostat, without it it's hard to get constant readings so you are never sure if it's the heat sorce, the thermostat or the thermometer. It's nive to see all three thermometers reading the same, it gives you a lot more faith in the system.
My last comment is be careful turning the eggs, my element was at the top and well out hte way of beaks, but once I wanted to place the thermometer over the back of the box to see if the temps were even and reaching over the eggs my hand brushed it, it burnt instantly. You have to reach over yours to get into the box, you may want to put some mesh over it to stop yourself brushing against it when reaching in!
 
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If I were to use a thermostat (NOT a hot water heater one)....

Can I use a regular a/c/heat thermostat? If so, which wires do I use to hook up to the electricity? Do you hook it up just like arlee described on page 1 of this post?
 
That is awesome! Keep this thread updated & let us know how you turn out. I'm like you & not even REMOTELY interested in paying a ton of money for an incubator when it can be done much cheaper on your own.

I'm using a heat lamp in mine right now & it does pretty good. But I had the same concerns you did & was considering something similar.
 
After a few hours of running on the element, I have to say it is definately working! I find it doesn't take much juice to get the element heating well. I had turned the dimmer about 1/2 of a turn to start and that got temps up to 103 in the WW. So, I've turned it 1/2 back and am waiting to see where that gets me.

My hope is that once I find that magic spot on the dimmer switch, the temp fluctations will be very minimal.

I don't think a standard AC thermostat will work for you, oldtimegator. The temp range is usually too low - ie you can't set it to run at 100 degrees. They usually don't go above 88 or similar.
 
I.m not sure if I understand everything, Doesn't using a dimmer cause your light (heat source) to stay on all the time? Do you use this system as a still air or forced air or will it work with both?
TIA
Don in Spiro
 
oldtimegator, can you post a pic or link to the greenhouse thermostat? If we can see the available hookups that might help...
 
http://picasaweb.google.com/oldtimegator/Chickens03/photo?authkey=A1LftNRf5yY#5211111742185644930

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