Thanks all! Either way, I'll need to get buy a new one as the ones I have I've already used with homemade bug sprays and what have you and I don't want to take any chances.
HEAVY RAIN = MITES...... TREATMENT ADVICE/COMMENTARY???
- Thread starter HortaChickenist
- Start date
I buy the cheap sprayer bottles at the dollar store.
Me too!
- May 3, 2014
- 22
- 2
- 78
Hello Hortachikenist! Wow I guess you combined horticulture with chickens lol
Listen long story short, I inherit some very molted bantams, they smelled bad
So,.... put warm water with some vinegar and dawn! And wala.... a lot of dead mites! 2 nd thing I put diatomaceous on them... and the iching and pecking each other stopped. Poor things! 3 things I allow them to run around in my back yard. Of course always checking and them, with in the next few days.
Their feathers started to grow back! Poor thing weren't really molting! It was the damn lice and mite!
Try it... bath them, I dry there feather with a hair blow dryer! The buggers got a spa treatment, feet massage and all! Next week they started laying eggs,
Listen long story short, I inherit some very molted bantams, they smelled bad
So,.... put warm water with some vinegar and dawn! And wala.... a lot of dead mites! 2 nd thing I put diatomaceous on them... and the iching and pecking each other stopped. Poor things! 3 things I allow them to run around in my back yard. Of course always checking and them, with in the next few days.
Their feathers started to grow back! Poor thing weren't really molting! It was the damn lice and mite!
Try it... bath them, I dry there feather with a hair blow dryer! The buggers got a spa treatment, feet massage and all! Next week they started laying eggs,
Hi All,
First post on BYC, too bad it is about mites
We had been keeping chickens for about five years before the first sign of mites. I suspect they were due to a new set of birds from up the valley, but I've got no proof.
The infestation was really bad, walking through the coop would be enough to have them jump on me, requiring a shower. Had no idea about mites at the time.
I did some research and settled on the nuclear option, a Raid fogger. This contains pyrethrins, which are derived from chrysanthemum flowers, and Piperonyl butoxide, which increases effectiveness:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/004822-00220-20131121.pdf
I emptied out the coop and wrapped it in a large tarp to keep the fog from exiting out the cracks. The result was a remarkable scene of death, which was satisfying since, mites, you know?
I am definitely on the organic side, but when something is eating on our chickens, I take the practical road.
Lessons learned from this experience and another just in the past few days are:
1) Avoid fixed furniture in the coop. Everything should be movable. This enables you to more easily track down the cracks and crevices which the mites like.
2) Be proactive. I have a can of Terro spider killer, which contains pyrethrins and deltamethrin. I will use this to spot-treat the crevices in my roosts.
There are many synthetic variations on pyrethrins, most of which extend the half-life, since pyrethrins break down rapidly in sunlight. Many Raid products use imiprothrin as a prime ingredient. The EPA has this on imiprothrin:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-004006_01-Mar-98.pdf
Note that these chemicals are extremely toxic to aquatic life, so no flushing down the storm drain. Also toxic to most insect life, so take care to not use in your garden or the bees will die. Lethal concentrations for mammals and avians are fairly high, so these chemicals are relatively safe. Still, exercise caution and avoid exposure to your birds and yourself.
Information on other synthetics from our own Beavers up the road:
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cypermethrin.pdf
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/DeltaGen.html
A final note, cats are particularly sensitive to pyrethrins, that is why you should never use a dog anti-flea treatment (Frontline, for example) on a cat.
First post on BYC, too bad it is about mites
We had been keeping chickens for about five years before the first sign of mites. I suspect they were due to a new set of birds from up the valley, but I've got no proof.
The infestation was really bad, walking through the coop would be enough to have them jump on me, requiring a shower. Had no idea about mites at the time.
I did some research and settled on the nuclear option, a Raid fogger. This contains pyrethrins, which are derived from chrysanthemum flowers, and Piperonyl butoxide, which increases effectiveness:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/004822-00220-20131121.pdf
I emptied out the coop and wrapped it in a large tarp to keep the fog from exiting out the cracks. The result was a remarkable scene of death, which was satisfying since, mites, you know?
I am definitely on the organic side, but when something is eating on our chickens, I take the practical road.
Lessons learned from this experience and another just in the past few days are:
1) Avoid fixed furniture in the coop. Everything should be movable. This enables you to more easily track down the cracks and crevices which the mites like.
2) Be proactive. I have a can of Terro spider killer, which contains pyrethrins and deltamethrin. I will use this to spot-treat the crevices in my roosts.
There are many synthetic variations on pyrethrins, most of which extend the half-life, since pyrethrins break down rapidly in sunlight. Many Raid products use imiprothrin as a prime ingredient. The EPA has this on imiprothrin:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-004006_01-Mar-98.pdf
Note that these chemicals are extremely toxic to aquatic life, so no flushing down the storm drain. Also toxic to most insect life, so take care to not use in your garden or the bees will die. Lethal concentrations for mammals and avians are fairly high, so these chemicals are relatively safe. Still, exercise caution and avoid exposure to your birds and yourself.
Information on other synthetics from our own Beavers up the road:
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cypermethrin.pdf
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/DeltaGen.html
A final note, cats are particularly sensitive to pyrethrins, that is why you should never use a dog anti-flea treatment (Frontline, for example) on a cat.
We had the worst out break recently then we have seen in years. The rain in North Florida is relentless. We don't play around with experimental or organic methods. Time is of the essence. The longer you go from product to product, the mites are going from bird to bird,. Nest to nest. Feather loss and some could be tempted to cannibalism with exposed open wounds there for a nice red colored backside of a suffering Bird. They eat the weak when the temptation becomes too much. Blood becomes addictive.
We have used Sevin on and off for 20 years. Instant parasite death. 24 hours later give the chickens a bath.
From our Show birds to egg birds to breeder birds, never have seen any negative results from using a Product that has been around forever.
It's fine to be organic. But in certain situations you have to use proven chemicals no matter what your pride tells you or what your goals maybe.
Put yourself in your chicken's shoes. If you have a bad infection and the doctor prescribed a man made chemical cure which most are, do you take the medicine or say no thanks doc, I'm organic, I'll just take a teaspoon of DE and drink some green tea.
Just an opinion... Please don't take it personally.
This is a good thread.. Anyway.
We have used Sevin on and off for 20 years. Instant parasite death. 24 hours later give the chickens a bath.
From our Show birds to egg birds to breeder birds, never have seen any negative results from using a Product that has been around forever.
It's fine to be organic. But in certain situations you have to use proven chemicals no matter what your pride tells you or what your goals maybe.
Put yourself in your chicken's shoes. If you have a bad infection and the doctor prescribed a man made chemical cure which most are, do you take the medicine or say no thanks doc, I'm organic, I'll just take a teaspoon of DE and drink some green tea.
Just an opinion... Please don't take it personally.
This is a good thread.. Anyway.
Last edited:
Welcome to BYC, and thanks for the detailed post!Hi All,
First post on BYC, too bad it is about mites
We had been keeping chickens for about five years before the first sign of mites. I suspect they were due to a new set of birds from up the valley, but I've got no proof.
The infestation was really bad, walking through the coop would be enough to have them jump on me, requiring a shower. Had no idea about mites at the time.
I did some research and settled on the nuclear option, a Raid fogger. This contains pyrethrins, which are derived from chrysanthemum flowers, and Piperonyl butoxide, which increases effectiveness:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/004822-00220-20131121.pdf
I emptied out the coop and wrapped it in a large tarp to keep the fog from exiting out the cracks. The result was a remarkable scene of death, which was satisfying since, mites, you know?
I am definitely on the organic side, but when something is eating on our chickens, I take the practical road.
Lessons learned from this experience and another just in the past few days are:
1) Avoid fixed furniture in the coop. Everything should be movable. This enables you to more easily track down the cracks and crevices which the mites like.
2) Be proactive. I have a can of Terro spider killer, which contains pyrethrins and deltamethrin. I will use this to spot-treat the crevices in my roosts.
There are many synthetic variations on pyrethrins, most of which extend the half-life, since pyrethrins break down rapidly in sunlight. Many Raid products use imiprothrin as a prime ingredient. The EPA has this on imiprothrin:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-004006_01-Mar-98.pdf
Note that these chemicals are extremely toxic to aquatic life, so no flushing down the storm drain. Also toxic to most insect life, so take care to not use in your garden or the bees will die. Lethal concentrations for mammals and avians are fairly high, so these chemicals are relatively safe. Still, exercise caution and avoid exposure to your birds and yourself.
Information on other synthetics from our own Beavers up the road:
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cypermethrin.pdf
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/DeltaGen.html
A final note, cats are particularly sensitive to pyrethrins, that is why you should never use a dog anti-flea treatment (Frontline, for example) on a cat.
Hi, welcome to BYC!Hi All,
First post on BYC, too bad it is about mites
We had been keeping chickens for about five years before the first sign of mites. I suspect they were due to a new set of birds from up the valley, but I've got no proof.
The infestation was really bad, walking through the coop would be enough to have them jump on me, requiring a shower. Had no idea about mites at the time.
I did some research and settled on the nuclear option, a Raid fogger. This contains pyrethrins, which are derived from chrysanthemum flowers, and Piperonyl butoxide, which increases effectiveness:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/004822-00220-20131121.pdf
I emptied out the coop and wrapped it in a large tarp to keep the fog from exiting out the cracks. The result was a remarkable scene of death, which was satisfying since, mites, you know?
I am definitely on the organic side, but when something is eating on our chickens, I take the practical road.
Lessons learned from this experience and another just in the past few days are:
1) Avoid fixed furniture in the coop. Everything should be movable. This enables you to more easily track down the cracks and crevices which the mites like.
2) Be proactive. I have a can of Terro spider killer, which contains pyrethrins and deltamethrin. I will use this to spot-treat the crevices in my roosts.
There are many synthetic variations on pyrethrins, most of which extend the half-life, since pyrethrins break down rapidly in sunlight. Many Raid products use imiprothrin as a prime ingredient. The EPA has this on imiprothrin:
https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/registration/fs_PC-004006_01-Mar-98.pdf
Note that these chemicals are extremely toxic to aquatic life, so no flushing down the storm drain. Also toxic to most insect life, so take care to not use in your garden or the bees will die. Lethal concentrations for mammals and avians are fairly high, so these chemicals are relatively safe. Still, exercise caution and avoid exposure to your birds and yourself.
Information on other synthetics from our own Beavers up the road:
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cypermethrin.pdf
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/DeltaGen.html
A final note, cats are particularly sensitive to pyrethrins, that is why you should never use a dog anti-flea treatment (Frontline, for example) on a cat.
But after all that... it you didn't learn how important quarantine of new birds is? Or you just forgot to mention it?
- Thread starter
- #39
HortaChickenist
In the Brooder
Update...I went to use the Permethrin for my first application but it was also mixed with insecticidal soap, so I went with the IC3 for first application and then went off to the feedstore for the Permethrin for the second application...I had used it (IC3) before but not with the mineral oil as they suggested for livestock so that's probably why it didn't work...I cleaned out the bedding and located some mites and sprayed them with the IC3 ... instant death! It did leave an oil residue but I assume that is what gave it the residual effect and kept it from drying up..also nice to have another weapon in the organic arsenal.
So now I made the Permethrin application number two last week and also misted the flock as well as every knook and cranny of the coop and run inside and out...taking a watch and wait approach,,,still have to do third app this week.
I do have some hens with some featherless areas ( also some whispy premature looking feathers) I'm assuming that the mites cause feather loss as I don't see any other signs of parasites on them...also question... does a stressful event such as mites cause the egg shells to become thinner? Iv'e noticed the shells aren't as thick on some eggs? Same diet since they became of laying age, layer feed...oyster shells...etc..
If I don't see their feathers growing back I may have to dip them in the Spinosdad bath...which I reallllllyyyyyy don't want or have the time to do. Egg production is about the same 18-20 per day from 22 birds which should be about right.
So here's the current arsenal: IC3, Permethrin, Neem, Spinosdad
Since I have a 3 acre organic farm & orchard most of these were in the shed anyways with the exception of the Permethrin solo spray.
And the rain keeps coming...
So now I made the Permethrin application number two last week and also misted the flock as well as every knook and cranny of the coop and run inside and out...taking a watch and wait approach,,,still have to do third app this week.
I do have some hens with some featherless areas ( also some whispy premature looking feathers) I'm assuming that the mites cause feather loss as I don't see any other signs of parasites on them...also question... does a stressful event such as mites cause the egg shells to become thinner? Iv'e noticed the shells aren't as thick on some eggs? Same diet since they became of laying age, layer feed...oyster shells...etc..
If I don't see their feathers growing back I may have to dip them in the Spinosdad bath...which I reallllllyyyyyy don't want or have the time to do. Egg production is about the same 18-20 per day from 22 birds which should be about right.
So here's the current arsenal: IC3, Permethrin, Neem, Spinosdad
Since I have a 3 acre organic farm & orchard most of these were in the shed anyways with the exception of the Permethrin solo spray.
And the rain keeps coming...
- Thread starter
- #40
HortaChickenist
In the Brooder
Thanks for all the great replies and since I'm coming at this from more of a horticulture background here's a tip from that side of the spectrum...its more costly than a spray bottle but it lasts for years.... if you flush it with fresh water after every use. They run around a 100.00 but the time you'll save and efficiency is second to none get yourself one of these...I use it around the garden and orchard and it makes life sooooo much easier
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