Help me decide on a chicken coop

[cluckmecoop7]

Alright so apparently it ISN'T walk in. I'm going to pass on that one.

 

[cluckmecoop7]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:bd5100bf-7871-404b-a098-ae0d5ff99e06

 

[Ursuline Chick]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/648917119546270/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:bd5100bf-7871-404b-a098-ae0d5ff99e06

It doesn't tell you size or if the run comes with it

 

[U_Stormcrow]

It doesn't tell you size or if the run comes with it

Well, a lot of automatic chicken doors are around 12-14" wide, so I'd guess the short side is 5', the long side 8'. That would be 40sq ft, sized for half the birds the seller claims. We know the problems with that design - you want to look under the eaves, see if they have open ventilation. Nesting boxes are on the floor, again. and the roost is likely at the height of the window, or just below. AGAIN.

Ever with under eave ventilation, if my guess at dimensions are right, it hasn't got enough of it. That would make it a 2x2 window - and even if it fully opened, that would only be 4 sq ft of vent for a guesstimated 10 birds inside...

 

[WallyG74]

I think 8 chickens would be fine, according to @WIchickMama's math.

Maybe bantams

 

[3KillerBs]

What about something like this?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/329078885990760/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:966d473c-83c6-4252-ab15-eadcb8e83d76

The key things are space and airflow. Prefab coops almost always have inadequate ventilation -- both too little and badly placed. You want something like this:

How many chickens do you want to put into your coop? If you've said I missed it -- I've got a head cold and am not at my best right now.

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

1 square foot is 1 foot wide and 1 foot tall. Or 2 feet wide and 6 inches tall. Or 4 feet wide and 3 inches tall. Or a triangle under your gable peak that is 2 feet wide at the bottom and one foot tall.

Here is the math for various sizes of flock:


4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

15 hens

• 60 square feet in the coop. 8'x8' is easier to build than 6'x10'
• 15 feet of roost
• 150 square feet in the run. 10'x15', 12'x12' or 8'x20'
• 15 square feet of ventilation.
• 4 nest boxes.

20 hens

• 80 square feet in the coop. 8'x10' is the most practical because 7'x12' or 6'x14' require a lot of weird cuts.
• 20 feet of roost
• 200 square feet in the run. 10'x20', 12'x16' or 8'x25' as suits the land available.
• 20 square feet of ventilation.
• 5 nest boxes.

It is, unfortunately, nearly impossible to buy a well-designed chicken coop.

How about a shed conversion?

Shed Conversions

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-mulligan.74743/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-coop-page.65912/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-scoop-on-a-rubbermaid-big-max-coop.76444/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/toy-shed-conversion.64879/

 

[1muttsfan]

The thing is this is a walk in coop....
The person said they had 7 chickens in it.

As you noticed, only 4' high. Walk in for 7 year olds.

I have a similar coop, with a peak roof, based on 4x8 sheets of plywood. This coop was built by my neighbor as a playhouse for his daughter, and they gave it to me when she was too old for it. Has a door any 7 year old can get through, a window on one side, and a pop door I installed.

One sheet of plywood for each side wall: one cut in half for the end walls, upper triangles covered with clear plastic on one end and a louvered vent on the other: one for the floor: and one on each side for the roof. Even with the peak it is very short, I can get in it and stand (hunched) to clean it but it is a PITA. It is used for broodies, raising chicks, and young adults prior to being integrated, in summer only, with a large attached pen. I would never consider it an only coop unless I kept only a few birds.

 

[cluckmecoop7]

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[U_Stormcrow]

ITS UGLY.

8x8 - sized for more than a dozen chickens. Nesting box is side open at a convenient height for you. Some minor improvements would add to its weather resistance, but they are minor. Huge overhangs front and back, with lots of weather protected 24/7/365 opening. I do NOT care for the "window" on the opposite side - and it looks like chicken wire is used as predator protection (hahahahahaha!). Also, there seems to be one missing purlin on the roof construction.

But overall, this is (in my rarely humble view) the best of the coops you've linked so far. I mostly like it. WOuld like to see more of the inside, of course.

 

[1muttsfan]

Agreed. It has potential. You could put outside nest boxes for greater convenience. I would add a few window for light and cross ventilation. Wonder what the inside looks like?