Thats a good idea, what do people usually do for preventative?
Hi there, welcome to BYC!
You can't prevent what you don't have.. you can only treat it once it's there. Standard bio security like not bringing in new birds from other places and not hanging bird feeders to attract wildlife and rodent control can be helpful.
I agree that it does not appear to be depluming mites.. which I have taken a bird to the vet to verify when feathers weren't growing back in. I'm not great at identifying exactly which species of lice or mite but here is an article that may help..
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/
That current feather condition will not really improve until they molt even though you treat effectively. The skin condition SHOULD improve quickly once treated! A couple links to my favorite veterinary resource..
https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poultry/ectoparasites/lice-of-poultry
https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poultry/ectoparasites/mites-of-poultry
The lice are even body part specific and may not travel to other parts.. like the head louse, body louse, or shaft louse. That's why my following statement has specific locations for the suggested spritz.
My preferred treatment is a ready mixed
permethrin based "horse fly" spray.. Found in the equine section comes in many brand names and also different concentrations to be mixed down. it's very effective, easy to use, affordable (under $10), labeled for use in poultry, safe on chicks, and requires NO egg withdrawal! Soaking NOT required.. just a small spritz below the vent, under each wing pit, and to the back of the neck at the base of the head.. NOT safe for use on cats. Also for use on walls, perimeter, lay boxes, roosts, etc.
It's good to get familiar with YOUR parasite load conditions and treat accordingly. Soil type, weather pattern, stock density, wildlife load, etc ALL vary. I NEVER just treat without verifying need.. resistance is WAY to large a problem to ignore and I like stuff to be effective WHEN needed. I do monthly after dark checks (or treatment) with a flashlight (headlamp) keeping it dark, as that's the easiest way to NEVER chase birds and also to see crawlies running away on their skin.
The only internal parasites that can be seen in droppings is large round worms (including thread) and tape worms. All other will only pass microscopic oocysts (eggs) and even then only intermittently, possibly to never show up on a fecal floats.
What you are seeing right now is indeed indicator of a need to treat. Even if all are not showing symptoms equally.. DO treat ALL so that those less effected won't become new sitting targets.
I feed dia. earth in their feed and that seems to make a big difference, too.
Big difference in what?
There are studies that show DE is NOT effective against
internal parasites OR in wet conditions
or on external parasites in humid conditions (like mine here on the coast). It even says so right on the package.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth
"Medical-grade diatomite has been studied for its efficacy as a
deworming agent in cattle; in both studies cited the groups being treated with diatomaceous earth did not fare any better than control groups"
The control group is the one not treated or given a placebo.
I invite ALL folks who use DE as
internal parasite treatment to get before and after fecal float counts to verify load and efficacy of treatment.
So far none will put their money where their mouth is and rather enjoy their false sense of security.
Despite my disagreeing about DE.. I do think you were very helpful AND tried to present a well rounded and accurate, informative series of suggestions.. never indicating that yours was the only or even the best way but just A way. No rudeness intended here, I enjoyed and value your posts.. just discussion.
