Nvazquez
In the Brooder
!
HELP ME QUICK!!!!
- Thread starter Nvazquez
- Start date
!
- Feb 24, 2014
- 154
- 31
- 71
Little giant is junk. I have had better luck with a cooler and a lightbulb than that one.
I don't know about Guinea eggs, but aren't leghorn eggs white? Have you emailed the seller?
They all look like chicken eggs to me. Guineas are smaller and have a rather pointed end.I got my order of eggs in the mail today and the box says Buff Orpington and Guinea! I ordered Buff and White Leghorn eggs! NO Guinea!!!! I have no clue what they should look like but ALL these eggs are brown and large (duck size).. These are the pictures of what is marked Guinea
!
tinakevin
Songster
my leghorn lays white eggs. I would contact the seller
tinakevin
Songster
Wow that's a lot of eggs. But I hope the hatch goes better for you this time. I have never incubated eggs and when my leghorn went broody something got to her eggs at around day 18 it was awful. But now I'll wait till spring for babies since it gets really cold up here in NH
urme
Hatching
- Oct 21, 2016
- 3
- 1
- 8
Depending on how many eggs they accommodate and how automated they are, Incubators run from around $50 for the homesteader favorite ‘Hova-Bator’ into the thousands of dollars forcommercial scale incubators. With top-of-the-line incubators, you put in an egg, close the door and out pops the chick three weeks later. You can also go the DIY route, which saves money, but is almost as much work as sitting on the eggs yourself. No matter how fancy or jerry-rigged, all incubators must accomplish a few basic things:
Temperature: The eggs need to be kept at 99.5 degrees at all times; just one degree higher or lower for a few hours can terminate the embryo.
Humidity: 40 to 50 percent humidity must be maintained for the first 18 days; 65 to 75 percent humidity is needed for the final days before hatching.
Ventilation: Egg shells are porous, allowing oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide to exit; incubators need to have holes or vents that allow fresh air to circulate so the fetuses can breathe.
Homemade versions usually involve some sort of insulated box—a cheap Styrofoam cooler will do. An adjustable heating pad or a light bulb on a dimmer switch will suffice for the heat source and a pan of water with a sponge in it will make the air humid. Low-end commercial incubators don’t amount to much more than this, but the more you pay, the more automated the temperature and humidity controls will be.
A high-quality thermometer and hygrometer (a device to measure humidity) are the most important tools of incubation; cheap models are usually not accurate enough. If you’re not working with an incubator that has these instruments built in, opt for a combo thermometer/hygrometer with an external display. These have a sensor that goes inside the incubator with an LED screen on the outside that shows the temperature and humidity readings without having to open the incubator and ruin your carefully calibrated environment.
One time-saving feature is a device to rotate the eggs automatically. Much of the fussing that a hen does over her eggs comes from an evolutionary instinct to constantly move them about. The finely tuned ecosystem inside a chicken egg is kept in balance by constantly changing the position of the egg. High-end incubators have a built-in egg turning device, but there are also standalone egg turners that can be placed inside a homemade incubator to do the job. Or, you can rotate manually according to the instructions below.
The incubator should be placed in a location with the least possible fluctuation in temperature and humidity throughout the day—a basement is ideal, a sunny window is not.
STEP 2 — FIND FERTILE EGGS
If you already have a flock of chickens that includes a rooster, the majority of the eggs they lay will be fertile. Collect them as soon as possible after laying and transfer to the incubator. If you don’t already have chickens, find a friend or a nearby farmer who does and ask if you can buy some fertile eggs. Websites like Craigslist and BackyardChickens.com are a good way to link with people that may have eggs to spare. Some feed stores sell fertile eggs in the spring and there are many suppliers that sell eggs online.
The closer to home, the better the egg source. The jostling about and fluctuations in temperature and humidity that occur during transport are hard on the developing fetus. Hatching rates on eggs straight from the coop are often in the 75 to 90 percent range; with mail-order eggs, there is no guarantee that any will hatch.
When picking eggs to incubate, use those that are clean, well-formed and full-size. Above all, do not clean the eggs—there is a naturally occurring coating that is vital to the success of the embryo. Wash your hands before handling and be as gentle as possible, as the embryos are extremely susceptible to damage from sudden movements.
Ideally, the eggs are transferred directly to the incubator, but it’s possible to store them in egg cartons if needed. Kept at temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees and 75 percent humidity, the development of the eggs can be delayed for up to ten days without sacrificing the viability of the embryos. However, they must be stored with the fat side of the egg pointed up to keep the embryo alive.
STEP 3 — INCUBATE
It takes 21 days on average for an egg to hatch once incubation begins. Before placing the eggs inside, turn on the heat source and measure the temperature and humidity over a 24-hour period, making adjustments as necessary to create the optimal environment. If the humidity is too high or low, use a sponge with more or less surface area to adjust it. Raise and lower the temperature of the heat source in tiny increments until the thermometer reads 99.5.
Once the incubator is functioning properly, it’s just a matter of maintaining the environment until the chicks hatch. Place the eggs on their side in the incubator, close the door and check the levels religiously to make sure nothing goes askew. Water may have to be added to the pan occasionally to keep the humidity up. At day 18, add more water to boost the humidity level.
If you’re going to turn the eggs yourself, there is a standard method to mimic the efforts of a hen:
· Draw an ‘X’ on one side of the egg and an ‘O’ on the other to keep track of which eggs have been turned.
· At least three times a day, gently turn the eggs over; more frequent turning is even better, but the number of turns per day should be odd (3,5,7 etc.) so that the eggs are never resting on the same side for two consecutive nights. Experts also recommend alternating the direction of turning each time—the goal is to vary the position of the embryo as much as possible.
· Continue turning until day 18, but then leave the eggs alone for the last few days.
STEP 4 — HATCHING
In the final days before hatching. the eggs may be observed shifting about on their own as the fetus becomes active. The chick will eventually peck a small hole in the large end of the egg and take its first breath. It is normal at this point for the chick to rest for six to 12 hours while its lungs adjust before continuing to hatch. Resist the urge to help with the hatching process—it’s easy to cause injury!
Once the chick is free from the egg, let it dry off in the warmth of the incubator before moving it a brooder, where it will spend the first weeks of its life.
Temperature: The eggs need to be kept at 99.5 degrees at all times; just one degree higher or lower for a few hours can terminate the embryo.
Humidity: 40 to 50 percent humidity must be maintained for the first 18 days; 65 to 75 percent humidity is needed for the final days before hatching.
Ventilation: Egg shells are porous, allowing oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide to exit; incubators need to have holes or vents that allow fresh air to circulate so the fetuses can breathe.
Homemade versions usually involve some sort of insulated box—a cheap Styrofoam cooler will do. An adjustable heating pad or a light bulb on a dimmer switch will suffice for the heat source and a pan of water with a sponge in it will make the air humid. Low-end commercial incubators don’t amount to much more than this, but the more you pay, the more automated the temperature and humidity controls will be.
A high-quality thermometer and hygrometer (a device to measure humidity) are the most important tools of incubation; cheap models are usually not accurate enough. If you’re not working with an incubator that has these instruments built in, opt for a combo thermometer/hygrometer with an external display. These have a sensor that goes inside the incubator with an LED screen on the outside that shows the temperature and humidity readings without having to open the incubator and ruin your carefully calibrated environment.
One time-saving feature is a device to rotate the eggs automatically. Much of the fussing that a hen does over her eggs comes from an evolutionary instinct to constantly move them about. The finely tuned ecosystem inside a chicken egg is kept in balance by constantly changing the position of the egg. High-end incubators have a built-in egg turning device, but there are also standalone egg turners that can be placed inside a homemade incubator to do the job. Or, you can rotate manually according to the instructions below.
The incubator should be placed in a location with the least possible fluctuation in temperature and humidity throughout the day—a basement is ideal, a sunny window is not.
STEP 2 — FIND FERTILE EGGS
If you already have a flock of chickens that includes a rooster, the majority of the eggs they lay will be fertile. Collect them as soon as possible after laying and transfer to the incubator. If you don’t already have chickens, find a friend or a nearby farmer who does and ask if you can buy some fertile eggs. Websites like Craigslist and BackyardChickens.com are a good way to link with people that may have eggs to spare. Some feed stores sell fertile eggs in the spring and there are many suppliers that sell eggs online.
The closer to home, the better the egg source. The jostling about and fluctuations in temperature and humidity that occur during transport are hard on the developing fetus. Hatching rates on eggs straight from the coop are often in the 75 to 90 percent range; with mail-order eggs, there is no guarantee that any will hatch.
When picking eggs to incubate, use those that are clean, well-formed and full-size. Above all, do not clean the eggs—there is a naturally occurring coating that is vital to the success of the embryo. Wash your hands before handling and be as gentle as possible, as the embryos are extremely susceptible to damage from sudden movements.
Ideally, the eggs are transferred directly to the incubator, but it’s possible to store them in egg cartons if needed. Kept at temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees and 75 percent humidity, the development of the eggs can be delayed for up to ten days without sacrificing the viability of the embryos. However, they must be stored with the fat side of the egg pointed up to keep the embryo alive.
STEP 3 — INCUBATE
It takes 21 days on average for an egg to hatch once incubation begins. Before placing the eggs inside, turn on the heat source and measure the temperature and humidity over a 24-hour period, making adjustments as necessary to create the optimal environment. If the humidity is too high or low, use a sponge with more or less surface area to adjust it. Raise and lower the temperature of the heat source in tiny increments until the thermometer reads 99.5.
Once the incubator is functioning properly, it’s just a matter of maintaining the environment until the chicks hatch. Place the eggs on their side in the incubator, close the door and check the levels religiously to make sure nothing goes askew. Water may have to be added to the pan occasionally to keep the humidity up. At day 18, add more water to boost the humidity level.
If you’re going to turn the eggs yourself, there is a standard method to mimic the efforts of a hen:
· Draw an ‘X’ on one side of the egg and an ‘O’ on the other to keep track of which eggs have been turned.
· At least three times a day, gently turn the eggs over; more frequent turning is even better, but the number of turns per day should be odd (3,5,7 etc.) so that the eggs are never resting on the same side for two consecutive nights. Experts also recommend alternating the direction of turning each time—the goal is to vary the position of the embryo as much as possible.
· Continue turning until day 18, but then leave the eggs alone for the last few days.
STEP 4 — HATCHING
In the final days before hatching. the eggs may be observed shifting about on their own as the fetus becomes active. The chick will eventually peck a small hole in the large end of the egg and take its first breath. It is normal at this point for the chick to rest for six to 12 hours while its lungs adjust before continuing to hatch. Resist the urge to help with the hatching process—it’s easy to cause injury!
Once the chick is free from the egg, let it dry off in the warmth of the incubator before moving it a brooder, where it will spend the first weeks of its life.
All they really need is chick starter at this point. You may be overloading their little systems with the xtras. I am unfamiliar with ultra kibble. Grit only needs to be fed along with other treats. If you feed strictly starter you don't need grit. You can give them treats like boiled eggs, or yogurt w/out needing the grit as well. I have never seen grow gel either. I use sav a chick electrolyte in my water the first couple days after hatch. It's not unusual to have a little pasty butt, ACV in the water is usually the highest recommended, but the ACV should have the "mother" in it. Sounds like your silkie has a high vaulted head? The scalp is all closed up, right? If so you shouldn't have anything to worry about and you should see down covering it when it fluffs out. My avatar pic chick is a silkie that had a high vaulted head.
Hovabator. Hands down. You do not want to mess with the digital LGs and the FIs aren't that great either. Hovabator has a nice 1588 model. All digital. I want to get the 1583 which is the same style, just not digital.
The 1602 is an older model, I don't think it's digital, I could be wrong. The 1588 is digital with temp control. I'd say the 1588 sounds like a better fit for you.
Chicks can take up to 24 hours before progressing and ducks can take twice as long. I am a hands on hatcher..extremely hands on, so I open my bator frequently during hatch. There are two camps. Hands off hatchers who insist on the only way is to keep it closed, then there's my camp, who defy the old ways and do open. I'm going to give you another link. This is a hatching guide from a hands on perspective. (Most are written from hands off perspectives.) It also has a small section on assisting. Plus I'll give you the link to my thread here for hands on hatching, so if you find yourself stuck and in need of help you can jump in the convo there and hopefully someone will be around and can help direct you.
Guide: http://hatching411.weebly.com/
Thread: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1081034/hands-on-hatching-and-help
The first link is my philosophy, so you'll see how I assist and under what circumstances there.
I haven't heard of it, but I mist duck eggs daily after day 10 with warm water (and cool them) and have had good results. I use this guide for hatching Muscovy eggs: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubating-and-hatching-muscovy-eggs.
The misting/cooling mimics what a broody does. Personally, I'd be leery of spraying additives on my hatching eggs. Others may feel differently.
The misting/cooling mimics what a broody does. Personally, I'd be leery of spraying additives on my hatching eggs. Others may feel differently.
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