Help needed. New chickens not going into new coop at night. Airlifting 36 chickens is exhausting!

[saysfaa]

I like that idea and have thought about it! My only issue is that I move the coops and fencing too often and don't think I would keep up with adjusting the electric in addition to all the other tasks. That's definitely a good option though and probably the best bet to keep them away!

If a bear wants in, the bars won't stop/slow him either.

I think you could wire just the coop so that you can have just one connection to plug/unplug. If you have a solar charger or battery charger on the coop, you wouldn't have to move any connections for each move. Some bee keeping info sources discuss bear fencing on a such a small scale.

 

[3KillerBs]

I have plenty of ventilation in the coop (two gable vents, plus soffit vents around the roof edges),

Here is one photo
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For 36 chickens, you're very low on ventilation as far as I can see, especially if windows aren't being left open. Ideally you'd want at least 1 sq ft of ventilation per chicken, mostly up high, but not sure how difficult it would be to hit that mark.

This.

For 36 chickens you should have 36 square feet of ventilation.

Those tiny gable vents are in the right place -- because heat and ammonia both rise -- but they can't possibly be moving enough air through them because the actual, unobstructed open area on one of them can't possibly be even a single square foot (comparing their size to the size of one of the chickens in the photo and subtracting for the louvers).

A ridge vent would help, but pulling the siding off a significant portion of the gable triangle and replacing it with hardware cloth would be a good idea -- especially if you are in an area that gets snowfall, which would block the ridge vent.

Alternately, you could add a monitor to the roof.

Here is how to extend the roof in order to shelter the gable: https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...e-overhangs-eaves-of-a-shed-coop-house.76599/

My Little Monitor Coop article includes how to frame a Monitor: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

 

[Borders3]

Thank you! I think this may be the reason. It has been raining a lot here and was very hot when we first put them out, and very humid. It has cooled off now, but it still gets warm in there without a fan. When I go in there I can see some that are on the highest roosts are open mouth breathing, despite all the windows, gable vents and soffits. I think they were too hot and didn't like it. I have a USB fan, but I think the window fan would work a lot better to pull air through the coop. I wish I could open the big windows at night, but we have so many night predators, I fear I would lost them all in no time. Here are more pics. The last one is of the spaces below the coop. Looks cozy too, lol.
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a veritable palace but for that amount of birds definitely lacking in higher up ventilation, heat rises so you need somewhere for it to get out.

 

[Buffy Brahma Mama]

Thank you all for your comments. For the roosts, the pictures don't show it, but most are staggered and there are more of them you can't see well in the pics. They are various heights and the lowest ones are slightly higher than the nest box grips. They are at min 18" from the ceiling and min 15" apart.

The coop gets pine shavings about 4-6" inches thick. It also has duncan's wall feeders and one for grit and oyster shell. I keep one stainless steam table pan in the coop as well, as I like them to have water (and food) at all times, in case the auto door fails, I sleep late (not likely), or in the event for some reason it doesn't get opened in time.

There is approx. 18 linear feet of ventilation (front and back sides) you can't see. I also left the roof boards exposed to provide extra ventilation. I would say that adds another 5-6 linear feet. Then the gable vents as well. During the day, almost all the doors and windows are open except the nest box doors. Most days, I can monitor for alarm calls and assist if a predator is there.

At night, until I get the screen and bars on, it's just the existing ventilation. I would say the existing is not enough when the daytime temp reaches 80 and above. Fortunately, that's not too often, however it was in the 90's and humid when I first put them outside. I'm sure they didn't appreciate being in a coop in that weather.

I did buy a barn fan for the 80 and above days, and it should be arriving soon. I have the hardware cloth ready to go as well, just need the window bars. There are also automated products that look good and can start the fan when the temp/humidity reaches certain levels. I may try those in the future as well.

Thanks again everyone! : )

 

[aart]

There is approx. 18 linear feet of ventilation (front and back sides) you can't see.

What do you mean by linear feet?
Ventilation is defined by square feet(so many feet long x so many feet high) of the opening.
A window that is 3 feet long and 2 feet high equals 6 square feet.

 

[Buffy Brahma Mama]

What do you mean by linear feet?
Ventilation is defined by square feet(so many feet long x so many feet high) of the opening.
A window that is 3 feet long and 2 feet high equals 6 square feet.

Great question aart. Liner feet in this case, refers to linear feet of soffit vent.

Total square feet of ventilation will vary based upon how many doors and windows I have open, in combination with existing soffit and gable vents.

 

[3KillerBs]

Total square feet of ventilation will vary based upon how many doors and windows I have open, in combination with existing soffit and gable vents.

The numbers you need to consider when thinking of the 1 square foot per adult, standard-sized hen are the the permanent, 24/7/365 vents that are never closed for any reason.

All the rest is supplemental ventilation.

For example, my outdoor brooder, an 8x4 structure, has 16 square feet of permanent ventilation -- an 8 in vent all the way around the top of the perimeter -- and 10 square feet of supplemental ventilation -- the ability to uncover the upper half of the door and the majority of the wall on the pop-door end.

 

[aart]

Great question aart. Liner feet in this case, refers to linear feet of soffit vent.

OK, so 18' of how big of a gap?
Looks like the typical 2x4 rafters(3.5")..so would be 756sqin or 5.25 sqft.
Unless they are 2x6 rafters(5.5")...then 1188sqin or 8.25sqft.
If you want to compare to the commonly cited 1sqft per bird.

Curious about your roof boards, why you used them instead of sheathing.
..and it looks like there are some gaps between roof board ends and shingles.

Also, how is coop attached to trailer?
What is capacity or trailer, looks like a lot of weight.

 

[Buffy Brahma Mama]

OK, so 18' of how big of a gap?
Looks like the typical 2x4 rafters(3.5")..so would be 756sqin or 5.25 sqft.
Unless they are 2x6 rafters(5.5")...then 1188sqin or 8.25sqft.
If you want to compare to the commonly cited 1sqft per bird.

Curious about your roof boards, why you used them instead of sheathing.
..and it looks like there are some gaps between roof board ends and shingles.

Also, how is coop attached to trailer?
What is capacity or trailer, looks like a lot of weight.

Great questions! The roof boards are spaced to allow the shingles to breathe - very important on a wood roof, and standard in this application. Wood takes on and releases moisture - it expands and contracts. Hundreds of years ago, as well as today, wood roofs are assembled without plywood sheathing. The gaps have been left open to allow more heat to escape, not just through the gable vents.

This coop was built to the spec for the trailer weight, but it's really important to note if others were to try this - that you need to determine trailer capacity and secure it properly. Also be aware that there may be certain road restrictions that may be specific to your area. Know those before you build, if you plan to move your coop onto a roadway. Metal strapping should be used to secure it and I do recommend trailer stands when it is stationary.

 

[LMRAT]

Thank you! I think this may be the reason. It has been raining a lot here and was very hot when we first put them out, and very humid. It has cooled off now, but it still gets warm in there without a fan. When I go in there I can see some that are on the highest roosts are open mouth breathing, despite all the windows, gable vents and soffits. I think they were too hot and didn't like it. I have a USB fan, but I think the window fan would work a lot better to pull air through the coop. I wish I could open the big windows at night, but we have so many night predators, I fear I would lost them all in no time. Here are more pics. The last one is of the spaces below the coop. Looks cozy too, lol.
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Forget the chickens. I'll move in tomorrow ;-)