Help with flock

Definitely measure. You're looking for roughly 4 sq ft per chicken in open floor space in the coop (area they sleep in), as well as sufficient roost space (12" for a standard bird) and ventilation (1 sq ft per bird).
Thank you so much! I will measure tomorrow. Also, am I being presumptuous to think that I’d I got 2 of her breed it would be better than getting different breeds? So, 3 reds and 3 rocks. Does that mean a difference to them?
 
:pop This just means I am interested and watching this thread but I really have nothing useful to add! We would never shame a newbie, by the way, we're here to help! ... don't suppose you'd care to post pics of your little flock, would you? 😉
Hahaha thank you, some boards/groups can be rough. Here are my girls! I think the reds are road island reds?
80DEFA6D-28CA-4F7C-B934-8DD40714F0DB.jpeg
 
Thank you so much! I will measure tomorrow. Also, am I being presumptuous to think that I’d I got 2 of her breed it would be better than getting different breeds? So, 3 reds and 3 rocks. Does that mean a difference to them?

As a general rule they don't care what the other birds look like, so you can usually get whatever you want. Where the difference is is some breeds are known for being more docile or more aggressive (though every bird is an individual so you'll always get some variance), or some breeds have characteristics that can cause them to get bullied (i.e. Polish with their funky head feathers). Your red birds are... I think red sex links? If they have some Rhode Island Red in them, those can be more aggressive, dominant birds, so may give other birds a tougher time overall. Or they might just be "tighter" with one another if they all grew up together, and the barred bird came in later so still is a bit of an odd bird out.
 
As a general rule they don't care what the other birds look like, so you can usually get whatever you want. Where the difference is is some breeds are known for being more docile or more aggressive (though every bird is an individual so you'll always get some variance), or some breeds have characteristics that can cause them to get bullied (i.e. Polish with their funky head feathers). Your red birds are... I think red sex links? If they have some Rhode Island Red in them, those can be more aggressive, dominant birds, so may give other birds a tougher time overall. Or they might just be "tighter" with one another if they all grew up together, and the barred bird came in later so still is a bit of an odd bird out.
Great points and info. Thank you so much
 
Definitely measure. You're looking for roughly 4 sq ft per chicken in open floor space in the coop (area they sleep in), as well as sufficient roost space (12" for a standard bird) and ventilation (1 sq ft per bird).
Please do measure...and pics!
4sqft is minimum, IMO......more is better especially when integrating new birds.

Someone's gotta be at the bottom. Add a new bird, add 3 new birds... at least one will still be at the bottom of the pecking order.
Indeed! ...and the low existing bird will likely be the 'meanest' to the new birds.
To protect their place or just glad to finally have someone lower to beat on.


Keep in mind that no matter how many or what kind you add, follow some.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/
 
So here's my two cents....the bigger your flock the bigger the pecking order shenanigans are spread between other birds. So yes you always will have someone on the bottom but usually you'll have a couple queen hens doing the majority of the picking. Those girls will be picking at multiple birds rather than just your low man on the totem pole. All will peck at each other in the pecking order BUT those top few ladies will be doing a lot of it.

Now this logic also only works if you have the space. If you're maxed on space then I for sure wouldn't do it.
 
So here's my two cents....the bigger your flock the bigger the pecking order shenanigans are spread between other birds. So yes you always will have someone on the bottom but usually you'll have a couple queen hens doing the majority of the picking. Those girls will be picking at multiple birds rather than just your low man on the totem pole. All will peck at each other in the pecking order BUT those top few ladies will be doing a lot of it.

Now this logic also only works if you have the space. If you're maxed on space then I for sure wouldn't do it.
Excellent description!
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom