Help with wiring on a rehabbed Hovabator

Audio51

Songster
8 Years
Jul 16, 2012
2,799
155
246
Paradise, California
I wanted to add fan to my ancient still air Hovabator from about 20+ years old. I decided I would also convert it to a picture window one at the same time. The fan is completely independent and has it's own cord so I am good on that, but need help with reconnecting everything for the heat I have. all the construction done and now only need to connect the wiring but do not want to short everything out. I actually did write down what connected where but since this has been an ongoing project since about February the paper has been misplaced. I am really only reconnecting the same things that were already there, but bought a new wafer thermostat and heating element...both of which came with no instructions. The components that need to connect are as follows:

Power supply: Using the original power cord with one smooth side and one ribbed side

Thermostat: New GQF wafer thermostat with 2 blue wires

Indicator light: 1 white and 1 light blue wire

Heating element: New GQF element with one black wire and 1 blue wire.




Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
 

WalnutHill

Crowing
5 Years
Mar 16, 2014
7,000
2,268
346
SE Michigan
I wanted to add fan to my ancient still air Hovabator from about 20+ years old. I decided I would also convert it to a picture window one at the same time. The fan is completely independent and has it's own cord so I am good on that, but need help with reconnecting everything for the heat I have. all the construction done and now only need to connect the wiring but do not want to short everything out. I actually did write down what connected where but since this has been an ongoing project since about February the paper has been misplaced. I am really only reconnecting the same things that were already there, but bought a new wafer thermostat and heating element...both of which came with no instructions. The components that need to connect are as follows:

Power supply: Using the original power cord with one smooth side and one ribbed side

Thermostat: New GQF wafer thermostat with 2 blue wires

Indicator light: 1 white and 1 light blue wire

Heating element: New GQF element with one black wire and 1 blue wire.




Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!

While I have never seen one of these incubators, you need to hook everything up in series.

Your AC power in is white (neutral) and black (hot), so the sensible connections would be:

Black from power cord (connects to skinny pin on plug) to black on heating element
Blue from heating element to one blue on wafer
Other blue on wafer to blue on indicator light
White on indicator light to white on power cord (fat pin on plug)

So when the circuit is closed by the microswitch in the thermostat, the heating element and lamp get power.
 

Audio51

Songster
8 Years
Jul 16, 2012
2,799
155
246
Paradise, California
Quote:
Thank you so much! I will give it a shot tomorrow when I am less tired and let you know how it goes...
big_smile.png
 

WalnutHill

Crowing
5 Years
Mar 16, 2014
7,000
2,268
346
SE Michigan
In a series circuit, with everything connected to pass through, the wafer thermostat controls both the pilot light and heating element. There can't be a bad connection, as if there was, nothing would come on.

You wired like this:

Wall plug black --> Heating element black
Heating element blue --> Thermostat blue
Thermostat blue --> Pilot lamp blue
Pilot lamp white --> Wall plug white

Each wire should be connected to only one other wire.

With the incubator unplugged from the wall, use an ohmmeter to measure across the two pins of the power plug. Try the 1K ohm setting. When the thermostat is calling for heat, there should be continuity between the two prongs of the plug. When the microswitch is depressed (temp control screw turned in), there should be no continuity.
 

Audio51

Songster
8 Years
Jul 16, 2012
2,799
155
246
Paradise, California
In a series circuit, with everything connected to pass through, the wafer thermostat controls both the pilot light and heating element. There can't be a bad connection, as if there was, nothing would come on.

You wired like this:

Wall plug black --> Heating element black
Heating element blue --> Thermostat blue
Thermostat blue --> Pilot lamp blue
Pilot lamp white --> Wall plug white

Each wire should be connected to only one other wire.

With the incubator unplugged from the wall, use an ohmmeter to measure across the two pins of the power plug. Try the 1K ohm setting. When the thermostat is calling for heat, there should be continuity between the two prongs of the plug. When the microswitch is depressed (temp control screw turned in), there should be no continuity.

I posted the same question on a Facebook quail thread and someone showed me this hook up


I tried it and it is working. Element is heating and the indicator light is going on and off as the heater goes on and off. I appreciate the response from you WalnutHill. It is working now and that is what counts. You were the only one who even tried to help so thank you!
clap.gif
 

stevethack

Chirping
May 6, 2015
118
35
86
Guy, Ar...out in the sticks!
Last pic of correct way to wire looks ok..and since it works...yay!!
But always "switch" (the wafer switch) the hot wire to the heater..put the wafer switch between the "smooth wire"-hot incoming power wire--the one that connects to the skinny blade on the plug end (2 wires under one wire nut or a connection you make) and then the heater wire on the other wafer wire (pick one or the other one..it don't matter which/what) ..add the blue wire from the light to this joint too. (3 wires under one wire nut here--or a secure connection of some type)
Then put the white light wire and the remaining heater wire to the "ribbed" incoming power wire (3 wires under one wire nut).
There will only be 3 joints when you are done...1 with 2 wires under the connector (wire nut?) and 2 joints with 3 wires each under the wire nuts.
Never put a "switch"/wafer switch in the neutral wire/white wire/ribbed wire. Although it works either way..it ain't "legal" under the national electric code.. Which I taught in electrical apprenticeship school for a decade.


Sorry for the quality...but I just used a paint-like program in Linux to do this with and I shore ain't no artistic type.
 

WalnutHill

Crowing
5 Years
Mar 16, 2014
7,000
2,268
346
SE Michigan
Last pic of correct way to wire looks ok..and since it works...yay!!
But always "switch" (the wafer switch) the hot wire to the heater..put the wafer switch between the "smooth wire"-hot incoming power wire--the one that connects to the skinny blade on the plug end (2 wires under one wire nut or a connection you make) and then the heater wire on the other wafer wire (pick one or the other one..it don't matter which/what) ..add the blue wire from the light to this joint too. (3 wires under one wire nut here--or a secure connection of some type)
Then put the white light wire and the remaining heater wire to the "ribbed" incoming power wire (3 wires under one wire nut).
There will only be 3 joints when you are done...1 with 2 wires under the connector (wire nut?) and 2 joints with 3 wires each under the wire nuts.
Never put a "switch"/wafer switch in the neutral wire/white wire/ribbed wire. Although it works either way..it ain't "legal" under the national electric code.. Which I taught in electrical apprenticeship school for a decade.


Sorry for the quality...but I just used a paint-like program in Linux to do this with and I shore ain't no artistic type.

Thank you for the better diagram!
 

MANNA-PRO

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