Hey Fat Daddy...

Discussion in 'Quail' started by _Randall_, May 19, 2012.

  1. _Randall_

    _Randall_ Songster

    Nov 3, 2009
    Grenada, Ms
    Here's a couple of pics showing the thermocouple and turner shelves. The thermocouple is about 3" from the heating element, and I did have it centered exactly between the 2 fans, but I run both fans during the full ~23 day duration, and cut the right one off on hatch day. With the sensor favoring right in front of the left fan discharge, it picks up the direct heat when the element cycles. I don't run both fans while hatching even though I run super-high humidity because I found it was playing a factor in some of the shrink wrapping I was having (because of the false-back design which forces the air to flow down across the eggs to the return opening at the bottom of the false-back).

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    Last edited: May 19, 2012
  2. Fat Daddy

    Fat Daddy Crowing

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    Man, Thats a sweet bator Randall. Mine is a bit crude compared to yours. I set up a bit bit different that yours but in the same ballpark. I used JJ's plans as a base and modified to my scale of hatching. I have dual fans in mind for a future mod. due to mold issues. I have discussed the problem with other hatch-a-hollics. The common opinion is higher air flow would help with this. I remembered you raising humidity during hatch for some while others incubate in the same bator with good results. It worked out great for me too but when I lock down one group say on the 10th of the month. I bump the humidity thru the roof. We run it there till hatch and a day or so more for stragglers. Now we're at the 14th or 15th of the month. If I lock down another group right behind them say on the 16th or 17th, And raise the humidity again, I start get'n mold grow'n on the bottom corners by the end of the hatch.... It wipes right off with a little vinegar water, but need to side step crud grow'n in my bator if I can.... Do you have your fans switched individually or just unplug'em? I see you monitor each turner temp too. How much temp variation do you get? I have about 1 deg. from top to bottom and wonder'd if the additional fan would bring that down too.... Hers a pic of mine....


    I added a red light to show me when the heat element is energized.

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    I run the brinsea on top too....
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    Sorry about the fuzzy pix. you see where I ended up put'n the probe, on the front lip of the shelf. My heat element is on the under side of the top too. Seems to work fine but ya always wonder if it could be better....
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2012
  3. _Randall_

    _Randall_ Songster

    Nov 3, 2009
    Grenada, Ms
    I really like that bator, Bill....[​IMG]
    Hmmm, the mold thing is something that I haven't seen yet. Do you have fresh air intake hole(s) and exhaust holes in the cabinet? I'd play with that some to see if that makes a difference. I've got two 1" holes in the back - one right behind each fan. I run with the one right behind the fan that's on most if not all the way open. Come lockdown, I open them both, provided I keep the laundry room good and warm. I've go two 1/4" exhaust holes towards the bottom/front on each side of the cabinet. I have each fan on its own switch. The first 20 days, I run both fans. 210 cfm with the "loop" concept keeps the temp fairly steady throughout. The Little Giant thermometers are pretty much spot-on when compairing the temp on them with the Cooper unit, which is my main temp and humidity monitoring device. This digital instrument shows temperature rise and drop in real time in 1/10ths of a degree. You can see exactly what's going on when you hear the contactor click on and off in the thermostat. I have the thermocouple midway between the upper and lower shelves. With a room temp of 75 - 80 degrees, I normally get a delta of 1.6 degrees. It takes about 90 seconds to drop from the high-to-the-low when the heating element turns off, and about 20 seconds to get from the low-back-to-the high range when the element turns back on. That's keeping my "mean" (average) right at 99.5 degrees on the Little Giant thermometers. I know some have said they don't trust them for accurate temp monitoring, but my local farm supply sells these and if there's several of them laying out, try to choose a group of 2 or more that are consistant in temp. This is the third year I've had these two, and they are handy for a quick visual when walking by. I also have twelve 1-pint fruit jars on the bator floor as heatsinks that I think plays a big part in preventing temp drop. Here's some older pics....



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    Last edited: May 20, 2012
  4. Fat Daddy

    Fat Daddy Crowing

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    Ok, I had forgot about the Cooper unit for temp and humidity.... That is a sweet piece of gadget right there!! I do use the LG glass thermos on every shelf, and did just as you describe when I bought'em. Grabbed three that were read'n the same in TSC. I think Im gonna start save'n my beer cans and cash the aluminum in for one of those cooper units. Darla wont give anymore forwards on my allowance for bird stuff!

    The fresh air hole size may be play'n a role in my mold issues too. I'v got 1\2" holes just behind the fan. No exhaust holes at all....one more thing for the mod. list... Thanks Randall, Bill
     
  5. bfrancis

    bfrancis Songster

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    Okmulgee Co, Oklahoma
    Hello Randall, ...was talking with Fat Daddy on the phone earlier this evening...asking him a bunch of bator questions, getting ready to start a build tomorrow. He told me to come here and check out your pics for ideas...

    Your pics are great! I'm like Bill, going to use JJ's fundamental design, but integrate a lot of your workings too. Really like the idea of a false back for air ducting and fans. Thanks for sharing about how you cut one off during lock down...good info! +1

    Look forward to getting to know you...several folks have said really good things about you...see you around here and other lands as well!

    Bill
     
  6. _Randall_

    _Randall_ Songster

    Nov 3, 2009
    Grenada, Ms
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2012
  7. bfrancis

    bfrancis Songster

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    Mar 30, 2010
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    I'm sure I'll have questions as I go along, but a couple a questions I got right off the top of my head is how "deep" is your false back? Also, I see where you got the dual fans to bring air from the back across the heating element and a water pan for humidity. figured out the 1" holes in the back for fresh air draw and see the 1/4" hole near the front bottom for exhaust...is there a opening near the bottom inside the cabinet that also exhausts into the false duct? Something for an internal circulation as well as the fresh air draw and exhaust ports?

    Do you have plans drawn out or could you give out rough interior dimensions and exterior dimensions? (Interior is probably more important.)

    Your build pics would be great! I'm a pretty good carpenter, so can reverse engineer it...if I can see it [​IMG]

    JJ has never steered me wrong...know with the amount of birds he puts out each year he's doing it right.

    Thanks for sharing what's working for you and willing to share what hasn't...that school of hard knocks isn't easy, but can save others from the same lessons the hard way. I figure that's what it's all about, helping others.

    Take Care

    bf
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. bfrancis

    bfrancis Songster

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    Mar 30, 2010
    Okmulgee Co, Oklahoma
    Ok guys, here is the start of my "JJ / Randall" incubator:

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    3/4" Maple, all the joints are glued. Deep enough for auto turners and a false wall. You can see where I cut the hole for the light switch for the interior lights for egg inspection and viewing...Will post daily updates and questions.

    bf
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  9. _Randall_

    _Randall_ Songster

    Nov 3, 2009
    Grenada, Ms
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  10. _Randall_

    _Randall_ Songster

    Nov 3, 2009
    Grenada, Ms
    Lookin' good, Bill. I see you're like Fat Daddy and JJ.......y'all have the knack. My false back is from 1/8" aluminum. (It doesn't have to be aluminum - it was just available). There's a 2-1/2" gap at the bottom of the false back, and a 4" space between the false back and main back.
     

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