Honey bees - Frames question

[nao57]

So, you guys probably have heard about the idea that some people say they'll put 9 (or was it 8) frames in a 10 frame box to make the bees fill the frames out fatter and wider.

It made me wonder, if this means people could make their own frames, and make them wider than that even? What's the widest a frame could get if allowed to be wider than normal?

And have any of you tried making your own frames?

Also, its hard to know how many extra frames you should have for each hive box (not just what's in a live hive), to be prepared for adjustments at any time? How do you calculate how many extra to have nearby? (10% over for each hive? Or 15% or 20%?) (Or something else?)

 

[R2elk]

So, you guys probably have heard about the idea that some people say they'll put 9 (or was it 8) frames in a 10 frame box to make the bees fill the frames out fatter and wider.

It made me wonder, if this means people could make their own frames, and make them wider than that even? What's the widest a frame could get if allowed to be wider than normal?

And have any of you tried making your own frames?

Also, its hard to know how many extra frames you should have for each hive box (not just what's in a live hive), to be prepared for adjustments at any time? How do you calculate how many extra to have nearby? (10% over for each hive? Or 15% or 20%?) (Or something else?)

When you are starting with a 10 frame hive and bare foundation, you start with ten frames. The next year, you can thin it down to 9 frames since the comb is already drawn. From there, you can trim down to 8 frames.

You can't start out with a wider frame and bare foundation. It will make the "bee space" too wide and the bees will go crazy building comb to suit themselves instead of you. This makes it very difficult to extract the honey.

 

[nao57]

When you are starting with an 10 frame hive and bare foundation, you start with ten frames. The next year, you can thin it down to 9 frames since the comb is already drawn. From there, you can trim down to 8 frames.

You can't start out with a wider frame and bare foundation. It will make the "bee space" too wide and the bees will go crazy building comb to suit themselves instead of you. This makes it very difficult to extract the honey.

Thanks!

 

[R2elk]

BYC's sister site BackYardHerds has a dedicated Bees and Beekeeping forum.

 

[MarkJr]

^^^^ This is exactly right.

They will build there own if they have 1/8” too much room between combs.

 

[nao57]

Is there more risk of absconding if you use plastic frames, etc?

 

[MarkJr]

With a resounding yes, plastic frames are hard to get to accept. Double dipped acorn is about as good as it gets for plastic. If the nectar flow is going strong, I’d suggest putting it between drawn frames so they work it. If you have two plastic side by side, they tend to build stand off parts and free form comb between the frames. Locking it into each side. You tear the comb up getting it apart.

 

[nao57]

With a resounding yes, plastic frames are hard to get to accept. Double dipped acorn is about as good as it gets for plastic. If the nectar flow is going strong, I’d suggest putting it between drawn frames so they work it. If you have two plastic side by side, they tend to build stand off parts and free form comb between the frames. Locking it into each side. You tear the comb up getting it apart.

Wow.

I'm glad I thought to ask. It could have been a huge problem if I'd started with all plastic frames then.

 

[MarkJr]

For first hive..... I’d suggest wax foundation.

I try as best as I can to make bees draw their own. Sometimes it goes sideways and I have to tear it out and make them start over. With a single hive or even two hives it’s hard to overcome a setback like that (losing 3-5 frames of comb) and still make it through the winter.