How cold is too cold?

[Jenni Hen]

19°F That's normal here. I wouldn't bring them inside.

People who are used a more contintental climate often comment on how it feels colder, or somehow more uncomfortable, here and attribute it to the damp. What's 'too cold' probably depends on the humidity.
It's only -2C today (not unbearably cold) but with the freezing fog, I couldn't wait to get back inside and breathe comfortably, and literally went in for a breather a couple of times.

 

[Jenni Hen]

It's not even too terribly cold for me. I had 6-week chicks newly off heat in an Open Air coop in those temperatures during an unusual cold snap last month and they were fine because they were perfectly dry and well-sheltered from the wind.

As for skinny, compare them to this chart (remembering that layer breeds are naturally slimmer than dual-purpose breeds:

View attachment 3347688



Don't cover the coop up so much that you close off the ventilation.

As long as they are dry and out of the wind they should be able to stay warm. (I'll admit that I will allow molting hens to sleep in the nests if they want to).

As for skinny, compare them to this chart

This chart is really useful. I think my bird who died was emaciated.

 

[3KillerBs]

Battery hens tend to be commercial laying hybrids which are smaller than the standard sized hens we often keep, more like a leghorn than an Orpington or Sussex. They tend to become available at the end of the laying cycle, where they have been kept on an artificial light cycle. When that light cycle changes they often molt and stop laying eggs until the molt is over. A lot of apparent body size can just be feathers. When they molt and lose a lot of their feathers they can look really skinny. That's why when you are assessing their condition you go by feel instead of sight.

Here's a photo of my California White when she was molting. She looked very small and pathetic, especially next to the Brahma.

This was a normal, fairly-fast molt.

 

[Poultrybonkers]

I wouldnt bring them in as they have down feathers that keep them warm and their body temps are higher. Mine move less in the cold but are perfectly healthy...and the cold doesnt kill birds...if they die in the winter they where sick for awhile prior.

 

[Iluveggers]

Not sure what feed they are getting, but if laying has slowed/stopped you could switch to a higher protein all-flock or even starter/grower chick feed. That will help their feathers regrow and they can use the extra protein if they aren’t laying. Good luck. I am happy when I hear of Ex-Bats going to loving & caring homes.

 

[Jenni Hen]

the cold doesnt kill birds...if they die in the winter they where sick for awhile prior

That's reassuring for me, thank you. Not that Sinnie was sick but that I probably did all that might have been useful.

 

[littlecoopnextdoor]

it's been regularly colder than that and I noticed my two girls grew a lot of fluffy feathers to keep warm. as long a they are dry and coop is well ventilated they should be ok! <3 a good snack at night to keep them warm is helpful too.

 

[FaithArthur123999]

Hey guys, thank you so much for all of your replies! So much good advice and information! In the end I did bring them in last night. I put them in the coldest part of the house so they didnt get tooo used to the warmth and all was okay, it got to -7C last night and I dont think they have ever felt temperatures like that. They are back out in their coop tonight as its only -1C. The week looks like its going to warm up again too! Looking at that chart I would say 1 is between emaciated and underconditioned and the rest are underconditioned. They have access to their layers crumble (wont eat pellets?) Which has the right amount of protein, corn, wheat, meal worms, and a small amount of suet treats (advised by vet). On cold days they get porridge mixed with wheat. They just dont ever put weight on? My vet isnt too worried as they cant find a cause but would be nice for them to bulk out a bit. Ive made a rule to myself that they will come in when weather overnight reaches -5. If they were well conditioned and had more weight on them then I would mind so much but they are just skin and bones, just dont think they were breed properly when in battery industry sadly. Thanks again and any other suggestions to fatten them up would be great xx

 

[3KillerBs]

Looking at that chart I would say 1 is between emaciated and underconditioned and the rest are underconditioned. They have access to their layers crumble (wont eat pellets?) Which has the right amount of protein, corn, wheat, meal worms, and a small amount of suet treats (advised by vet).

Remember that commercial layers are naturally slimmer than dual-purpose birds.

Perhaps get them a feed with higher protein? Even perhaps meatbird crumble for a while?

 

[saysfaa]

... any other suggestions to fatten them up would be great xx

You probably know this but check their beaks - ex batts often have have their upper beaks trimmed off. They might not have grown back yet or might be growing back odd so that it is more difficult for them to eat than it should be. I don't know how long it takes for them to grow back.

Abundant fresh water can help them digest what they eat better, among other things.

If you have much food other than commercial mix, you might look into how much salt they are getting. You might be able to encourage them to eat more of the more nutritious foods by how much salt is in it, or in the other foods. Don't just add salt, though, too much will cause them to eat less than they otherwise would. This all takes more research than I've done.

Check that they are getting the right amount of trace minerals. The commercial feed should have the right amount but sometimes they don't.

Lowering stress can help. So, things like keeping to a routine, moving slowly and predictably when with them, not reaching over their heads, letting them go up to roost (even not far up can satisfy this instinct) and so on.