HOw do I best prevent diseases in our healthy hens?

[WoodlandWoman]

For me, a closed flock, good housing and good basic care are the best way to keep them healthy.

Adding new chickens to a flock that are carrying a disease is so much worse than any contact that a free ranging chicken gets from wild birds. Part of this is the close living conditions. They're right next to each other on the roost, plus eating and drinking together. They're on the same litter and in the same run together. This is much more concentrated contact.

The other thing that is a huge issue for chickens is the stress of adding chickens to an existing flock. In most cases, it's one of the most stressful situations for chickens. That stress suppresses their immune systems. Anything either the new or old chickens may have been carrying can then flourish. Anything a healthy chicken is exposed to at that time has a much greater chance of making it sick.

I do free range. I think the health benefits outweigh the minimal risks here. They get more exercise and have a much healthier diet. This works for my flock.

The disease horror stories I read most often involve chickens that were bought from an auction, a swap or some other chicken owner. It's very rare to have a problem with chicks from one of the well known hatcheries.

 

[Tracydr]

Bee kissed, can you say more about your fermented pumpkin and other things that you use?
Also, in AZ, our chickens tend to take an extended summer break from laying sue to the heat so I wonder if winter lights are such a bad thing in our unusual circumstances.

 

[Sozoed]

Great thread everyone . Thanks for the valuable information. I am learning a lot.

 

[6chickens in St. Charles]

Pray.

And don't forget to be thankful, grateful, filled with joy at every good opportunity to notice when things are going well!

 

[WoodlandWoman]

I use winter lighting and I haven't noticed it being a problem with my chickens, long term. If you're giving a marginal diet, over time it starts to show. If they're getting a great diet, they should do fine.

I don't think most commercial layer feeds with only 16% protein that are plant proteins are an optimum diet for a chicken, long term. It would be like a person living on only grain and soy, with a vitamin pill and no vegetables or fruits. Can you do it and live short term? Sure. Will you be healthy long term? No. There's a lot more in foods than just macro nutrients, vitamins and minerals. There are phyto-nutrients that fight diseases. Science discovers more of them all the time.

The reason I mention the plant proteins being an issue, is that I don't think chickens do as well on the minimum percentage of protein when it's plant based, compared to animal based. Some feeds do a better job of balancing the amino acid profile than others and some add a little extra methionine, too.

If you only plan on having your chickens for a couple of years, any basic feed will do. If you want to keep them much longer, I think you need to feed them better. I think chickens lay better for longer when they have a better diet. If the diet is not optimum and they're just getting by nutritionally, the longer breaks in laying let them build the nutrients back up in their bodies. If you feed them well, they get what they need all year long. They aren't slowly being effected by low levels of malnutrition.

 

[riane'smimi]

Quote:
That's what I have been thinking! The feed only has plants and soybeans for the protein .Chickens eat bugs,worms and small mice when left to eat their natural diet.Studies done way back in the early 1900s showed that they need animal protein not just plant protein.The problem now is that they don't make chicken feed with animal protein in it . I did find gamebird feed that has animal protein in it but how much protein is too much? Should I mix it with the layer ?
My birds have not layed as they should this year at all.I have 2 delawares,2 barred rocks,and 5 red stars. They will lay for a few weeks then just stop for a month or two.This has gone on all year.The birds turned a year old this past summer.

 

[Beekissed]

Quote:
I like to mix it up a little for the variety of it all and to keep things rolling as far as possible intestinal parasites and general immune system health. Fermented pumpkins contain the seeds, which are great anti-helminics, and the fermentation process increases the sugar content of the pumpkin for increased nutritional value.

I use Shaklee's soap at times in the water for anti-helminic purposes and I also keep a good supply of wood ashes for the gals to dust in and to consume...the barn swallows seem to gain some needed nutrients from this as well as they will dive down and grab some ashes and sometimes land and eat some. Charred wood is supposed to have an anti-helminic effect and the sheep love a good charred piece of wood as well.

 

[Momhen]

What does the apple cider vinegar do? How often should I give it to flock and in what concentration? Are there other vitamins or supplements that I should be giving to the flock daily or regularly?

 

[Arielle]

Quote:
THe organic type with the mother sediment on the bottom is requarded as best. As a general anti slime, I use 2-3 tsp per gallon water. Just cannot use metal containers with vinegar water. THere is a big thread or two which discusses ACV in depth including recipes for home made.

 

[Arielle]

Quote:
Just for clarification the fermentation use up the sugars as food for the yeast, etc. rather than increase the sugar content. IMO your overall comment is correct, fermentation increases the nutritional value. Think grapes to wine! LOL