How do you feed your Rooster(s)?

[JacinLarkwell]

My male's eat layer feed with their hens, with scraps and bugs as well. Same alwith feathered out chicks. As soon as my chicks are big enough to eat pellets, that's what they get

All of this and I've never lost a male to calcium related problems. My first male actually lived to 8 or 9 and he had layer feed his whole life

 

[Folly's place]

Flock Raiser is a specific feed from Purina Mills.
Layer feeds were developed for smaller types of high producing layers (Leghorn types) living in confinement in large commercial flocks, and eating nothing else.
Many of us out here have dual purpose birds, larger than Leghorns, and who eat other things, free ranging, or fed goodies by flock owners. This upsets the very precise balance in the layer feed, not helpful.
A friend of ours feeds a very good layer diet to her flock, and her birds molt longer and harder than mine, and we order chicks together, so the same genetics in both flocks.
Mary

 

[Folly's place]

I rely on advice from nutritionists, and few species have been as studied as chickens. Look at what the labels say on the feed bags.
Mary

 

[thepick4uchicks]

Hi Jackie!

That's a great question.

Its TRUE that birds NOT in lay (juveniles, roosters, broody's, molter's) should NOT be fed "LAYER". or calcium in excess of 3% long term as it *COULD* (doesn't mean will) cause issues including gout, kidney failure, and even sudden death.

Some folks will feed only layer ever including roosters and may never have an issue. Others will never have their birds necropsied and will presume a death was a heart attack. Some have had issues but caught it and made corrections according to their new understanding.

For ME.. I have BANK invested in my flock.. not many $3 birds around here.. aside from the time spent already to get where I am I in my chicken breeding adventure... Feeding something knowingly that *could* cause issues for one of my valued roosters would be doing myself and my flock a huge disservice. So even though "Flock Raiser" cost more than "layer".. oyster shell is cheaper than protein, which a 3% more of the fill in layer feed comparatively. But also, "layer" has less amino acids and protein in addition to the extra calcium. This makes them MINIMUM feed required to sustain light bodied layers like Leghorn in laying condition. I'm not aiming for minimums in my household.

To ME.. after genetics, everything immune system related starts with diet and nutrition. Since making the switch to Flock Raiser away from layer... my older birds now have MUCH less harsh molts and return to lay sooner. They become less withdrawn than previous molts.

Since it has more nutrients.. I also don't need to worry about they are getting free range (most grass is low protein and bugs are high fat) and gives a little leeway if I want to offer lower nutrient snacks on occasion. (I don't do corn or scratch, bit many do)

Now, I am an AVID hatcher... and 22% protein was shown in studies to give the highest hatch rate... which to me says more nutrients inside the eggs my family is consuming.. And I keep chickens BECAUSE I want want my birds and eggs to be better than those of "Big Chicken", not equal to.

That being said, the whole kidney thing is PARTLY genetic.. some folks have fed ONLY (organic) layer feed and had roosters live past 9 years old. It isn't MY personal choice.

But with NO fear mongering.. this is the information as I see it. Please decide what you are comfortable with.. for YOUR flock!

I now never switch, which is good for me as I have a constant barrage of chicks, broody's, molter's, layers.. what have you.

Please note.. by law in the US, each feed is labeled with the appropriate age and species it's formulated for. Layer feed is formulated for layers.

Terms.. grower, layer, all flock, flock raiser, meat bird, breeder, starter, etc... all are confusing terms made up by different companies. The MAIN difference is always going to be protein and calcium content followed by amino acids and the differences diminish after that;. I buy the one I like the ingredients of the most with good amino acid content. I have spent hours upon hours at my local feed stores reading and comparing labels.

Best wishes whatever you decide!

ETA: fed to juveniles, excess calcium content can even stunt growth and delay onset of laying.

Hi Eggsighted! Thank you for your input. I really appreciate it. Would you mind sharing with us at what age you make your first switch from starter grower feed for your pullets to something else? And also would you care to share what brand you feed? I have started my first backyard flock this spring. I have 9 girls with a fair amount of money tied up in just their purchase alone from Meyer Hatchery. I got them May 19,2020. If you tried to buy any chicks from any hatchery around that time of any let’s say rare or landrace breeds? I think that is the terminology I have to look that up again. I am researched out. I take a fair amount of meds and some days I am brain dead. Sorry. I have been to dentist for major work today and that hasn’t helped lol! But I have Three Swedish Flower Hens, Three Creme Legbars and Three Black/Lavender Split Orpingtons. To get them at that time between post Easter and Mothers Day it was with major bucks put out. It was shocking I will say for nine chicks a day old.
So I am very invested in my flock. I have put much financially into their coop and run also. I plan to keep them as healthy as possible within my means and have also created a first aid kit to have on hand with what I feel is quite an adequate list of supplies to support them in case of serious emergencies or illness that may come up or happen. The closest Veterinary service to me that will see chickens is the Vet School at Mississippi State an hour or so away from me but it’s too notch. We used to have Co-OP’s around here in our county and surrounding counties but they are a thing of the past apparently in Northeast MS due to lack of interest. People have quit raising their own animals for their own meat and eggs or milk - but I believe that will be revive due to signs I have seen due to the COVID-19 issues. People were buying out the hatcheries and they are buying out our local farm and ranch stores and they can’t keep feed and bedding or hardware cloth in stock. So if you wouldn’t mind sharing your knowledge with me I would really appreciate it and be indebted to you because I am at a loss here for really experienced folks to ask. Other than salesman who often just want to sell you leftovers instead of have you wait on what you really need I am at a loss.

Thank you so much for your time!

Pam

 

[thepick4uchicks]

Hi Jackie!

That's a great question.

Its TRUE that birds NOT in lay (juveniles, roosters, broody's, molter's) should NOT be fed "LAYER". or calcium in excess of 3% long term as it *COULD* (doesn't mean will) cause issues including gout, kidney failure, and even sudden death.

Some folks will feed only layer ever including roosters and may never have an issue. Others will never have their birds necropsied and will presume a death was a heart attack. Some have had issues but caught it and made corrections according to their new understanding.

For ME.. I have BANK invested in my flock.. not many $3 birds around here.. aside from the time spent already to get where I am I in my chicken breeding adventure... Feeding something knowingly that *could* cause issues for one of my valued roosters would be doing myself and my flock a huge disservice. So even though "Flock Raiser" cost more than "layer".. oyster shell is cheaper than protein, which a 3% more of the fill in layer feed comparatively. But also, "layer" has less amino acids and protein in addition to the extra calcium. This makes them MINIMUM feed required to sustain light bodied layers like Leghorn in laying condition. I'm not aiming for minimums in my household.

To ME.. after genetics, everything immune system related starts with diet and nutrition. Since making the switch to Flock Raiser away from layer... my older birds now have MUCH less harsh molts and return to lay sooner. They become less withdrawn than previous molts.

Since it has more nutrients.. I also don't need to worry about they are getting free range (most grass is low protein and bugs are high fat) and gives a little leeway if I want to offer lower nutrient snacks on occasion. (I don't do corn or scratch, bit many do)

Now, I am an AVID hatcher... and 22% protein was shown in studies to give the highest hatch rate... which to me says more nutrients inside the eggs my family is consuming.. And I keep chickens BECAUSE I want want my birds and eggs to be better than those of "Big Chicken", not equal to.

That being said, the whole kidney thing is PARTLY genetic.. some folks have fed ONLY (organic) layer feed and had roosters live past 9 years old. It isn't MY personal choice.

But with NO fear mongering.. this is the information as I see it. Please decide what you are comfortable with.. for YOUR flock!

I now never switch, which is good for me as I have a constant barrage of chicks, broody's, molter's, layers.. what have you.

Please note.. by law in the US, each feed is labeled with the appropriate age and species it's formulated for. Layer feed is formulated for layers.

Terms.. grower, layer, all flock, flock raiser, meat bird, breeder, starter, etc... all are confusing terms made up by different companies. The MAIN difference is always going to be protein and calcium content followed by amino acids and the differences diminish after that;. I buy the one I like the ingredients of the most with good amino acid content. I have spent hours upon hours at my local feed stores reading and comparing labels.

Best wishes whatever you decide!

ETA: fed to juveniles, excess calcium content can even stunt growth and delay onset of laying.

Oh Eggsighted I also may not have mentioned that my girls are at 13 weeks and do not free-range. They have a large coop and large run for nine birds. I do not plan to add more birds over three for a total of only 12 ever at one time. They will not be allowed to lay eggs and I will not get a rooster ever. My girls should not be laying until the first ones start in about at the earliest five more weeks probably and the latest ones 8 more weeks for the Orpingtons.

 

[JacinLarkwell]

Oh Eggsighted I also may not have mentioned that my girls are at 13 weeks and do not free-range. They have a large coop and large run for nine birds. I do not plan to add more birds over three for a total of only 12 ever at one time. They will not be allowed to lay eggs and I will not get a rooster ever. My girls should not be laying until the first ones start in about at the earliest five more weeks probably and the latest ones 8 more weeks for the Orpingtons.

Curious what you mean by saying they won't be allowed to lay

 

[thepick4uchicks]

Curious what you mean by saying they won't be allowed to lay

I am an idiot- I had little sleep last night and have been on heavy pain meds lately for my terrible arthritis and I had major dental work done this morning prior to this post. Sorry for my ignorant post. What I meant was that I will not have a rooster and I will not have a hen/rooster love relationship to produce fertile eggs that produce chicks. Hope that clears all this up. I do pray that all my girls lay eggs sooner rather than later but in a healthy manner for sure.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I am really new to chickens and this is super informative. Is flock raiser a brand or a type of food? It’s never occurred to me that there may be downsides to a rooster eating layer feed. I literally just bought our first bag of layer feed and oyster shells last week and have been feeding our rooster the same as the girls. The do free range and eat a variety of plants from our garden along with insects.... should I get the flock raiser feed and just leave oyster shells out?

I use Purina Flock Raiser because it available to me with fresh mill dates and consistently high enough turn over in my location and at the same price as Dumor or Nature Wise. One store had feed more than 6 months old on the shelf and since nutrients diminish over time (normal turnover time is formulated into the equation), and depending on storage conditions (heat or humidity) could happen rapidly. I no longer shop there. Generally aiming for not more than 6 weeks past mill date is preferred. According to the person who orders feeds at TSC.. I believe they are *technically* alleged to be good/best by.. within one year of milling. But topping the confusion is the difference of how they label those dates. If I had Kalmbach feeds available I might try them again as when I did, it smelled so good. BUT it's a regional feed, to the midwest I think that I got on Amazon and not available to me on a regular basis. If you're interested please check out the feed comparison charts, someone has worked really hard putting together.. For me brand doesn't matter, nutritional analysis and ingredients do. And I cannot personally afford to go "organic".. So it (Purina FR) may not be my #1 pick if my resources were different.. (location, funding, etc) But it has been a very good product with acceptable and reliable consistent results.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/➡-feed-comparison-spreadsheet.1275920/#post-20524932

Yes, I have stated the POSSIBLE down sides of feeding a rooster "layer" feed. I personally choose not to feed it as the savings of doing so is outweighed by other factors and the risk just isn't worth it to ME. As I've seen many state they never NOTICE any problem.. and there IS a genetic factor (which is the unknown part to us) that is largely at play. So I would probably get the flock raiser (or other low calcium formulated ration)... and feed out the layer, mixed with the FR to spread around the nutrients. But YOU should do what feels best for your flock, with what you are currently thinking and understanding, with what resources (funds) you have available. You can always switch things up if you change your mind,

Would you mind sharing with us at what age you make your first switch from starter grower feed for your pullets to something else? And also would you care to share what brand you feed?

I NEVER switch my feed. I start my newly hatched chicks, the boys I'm raising for the freezer, my active layers, breeders.. EVERYONE only gets the FR, ever.

I realize you are asking about a hen only flock. My personal thought with my current understanding means I would NOT feed layer to a hen only flock either.. Maximizing the micro-nutrients in my eating eggs (all eggs are 34% protein and 64%, fat according to their energy aka calorie content with half that protein and a good portion of the nutrients being found inside the yolk) benefits MY long term health. Plus the hens having more reserves on board and seeing who different the personality withdrawal was when going through molt was telling to me. The extra amino acids.. make the birds stronger, more resistant to internal/external parasites, ultimately predation.. according to MY anecdotal evidence..

That being said.. we do all we can and ultimately we are not in control. For Orpington.. not less than 18% protein is preferred. They however can SOMETIMES be genetically prone to fatty liver hemorrhagic syndrome.. be careful not to feed them excess high energy low nutrient treats.. like cracked corn, scratch, left overs. Just be sure to keep it under 10% of the total daily ration for best results.

Curious what you mean by saying they won't be allowed to lay

Thinking maybe "hatch" was meant.

While I'm here sharing my thoughts on feed let me touch on another subject many will tout.. FERMENTING, aka.. FF.. I bought in for a while and did it.. I mean all the rage.. increase protein, add probiotics, decrease feed cost, increase health, increase eggs size, the list goes on and on..

All those things equaled chicken math. If it's saving me this much plus I free range I can add this many more.. RIGHT?! Right. I did it for a flock of 72 including some ducks.. I did ONLY FF for 2 whole years. I didn't save ME a dime.. NOT one! My birds weren't healthier, eggs weren't larger. Nothing. I wasted a lot of time doing it for a flock that size in a large plastic trash can, and had a lot fun seeing the layers and bubbles, stirring with an oar. I even fermented dog food, don't.

FF might help some birds that are in need or save some very wasteful flocks.. but ultimately.. it's unformulating a formulated ration and many feeds already have probiotics added to them even when they don't spend money to advertise it on their fancy label. Looking back just this moment I found myself wondering if it actually decreased my hatch rate?!

Solutions not problems!

 

[Jackiebjackie]

Hi Jackie!

That's a great question.

Its TRUE that birds NOT in lay (juveniles, roosters, broody's, molter's) should NOT be fed "LAYER". or calcium in excess of 3% long term as it *COULD* (doesn't mean will) cause issues including gout, kidney failure, and even sudden death.

Some folks will feed only layer ever including roosters and may never have an issue. Others will never have their birds necropsied and will presume a death was a heart attack. Some have had issues but caught it and made corrections according to their new understanding.

For ME.. I have BANK invested in my flock.. not many $3 birds around here.. aside from the time spent already to get where I am I in my chicken breeding adventure... Feeding something knowingly that *could* cause issues for one of my valued roosters would be doing myself and my flock a huge disservice. So even though "Flock Raiser" cost more than "layer".. oyster shell is cheaper than protein, which a 3% more of the fill in layer feed comparatively. But also, "layer" has less amino acids and protein in addition to the extra calcium. This makes them MINIMUM feed required to sustain light bodied layers like Leghorn in laying condition. I'm not aiming for minimums in my household.

To ME.. after genetics, everything immune system related starts with diet and nutrition. Since making the switch to Flock Raiser away from layer... my older birds now have MUCH less harsh molts and return to lay sooner. They become less withdrawn than previous molts.

Since it has more nutrients.. I also don't need to worry about they are getting free range (most grass is low protein and bugs are high fat) and gives a little leeway if I want to offer lower nutrient snacks on occasion. (I don't do corn or scratch, bit many do)

Now, I am an AVID hatcher... and 22% protein was shown in studies to give the highest hatch rate... which to me says more nutrients inside the eggs my family is consuming.. And I keep chickens BECAUSE I want want my birds and eggs to be better than those of "Big Chicken", not equal to.

That being said, the whole kidney thing is PARTLY genetic.. some folks have fed ONLY (organic) layer feed and had roosters live past 9 years old. It isn't MY personal choice.

But with NO fear mongering.. this is the information as I see it. Please decide what you are comfortable with.. for YOUR flock!

I now never switch, which is good for me as I have a constant barrage of chicks, broody's, molter's, layers.. what have you.

Please note.. by law in the US, each feed is labeled with the appropriate age and species it's formulated for. Layer feed is formulated for layers.

Terms.. grower, layer, all flock, flock raiser, meat bird, breeder, starter, etc... all are confusing terms made up by different companies. The MAIN difference is always going to be protein and calcium content followed by amino acids and the differences diminish after that;. I buy the one I like the ingredients of the most with good amino acid content. I have spent hours upon hours at my local feed stores reading and comparing labels.

Best wishes whatever you decide!

ETA: fed to juveniles, excess calcium content can even stunt growth and delay onset of laying.

Thank you SO much for the information! I am new to raising chickens, and though I don’t always eat organic food, I’m attempting to raise these girls (and boy) all organic. I’ve read through a lot of articles and many forums here, and I really want to do this right!

They are currently on the Scratch and Peck grower feed:

Although not as high of amino acids as the flock raiser, do you think this will suffice?

When it comes to protein, I’ve also just started an all organic mealworm farm, which seems to have higher protein and less fat than other insects, and I feed them a handful daily, and dried grubs a couple times a week.

Even though I only have one roo, I don’t want to compromise his health of intaking too much calcium when the time comes where all the girls are laying, and really just thinking ahead since they’re only 14 and 9 weeks old.

Oh! And my flock consists of 2 Buff Orp, 2 Lavender Orp, 1 Speckled Sussex, 1 Golden Comet, 1 RIR, 1 Production Red, 1 ISA Brown and 3 Black Copper Marans, where 1 is the roo. I’ve also read that sex links start laying way earlier in comparison to Orps and Marans, and as you stated, I’ve read that feeding layer to non laying hens prematurely can cause some negative effects.

I’m thinking I might stay on grower feed for the rest of time and provide oyster shells and crushed egg shells on the side for the girls. It’s a tiny bit of extra work, but IMO it’s totally worth it!

Again, thank you so much for your insight!

 

[JacinLarkwell]

I am an idiot- I had little sleep last night and have been on heavy pain meds lately for my terrible arthritis and I had major dental work done this morning prior to this post. Sorry for my ignorant post. What I meant was that I will not have a rooster and I will not have a hen/rooster love relationship to produce fertile eggs that produce chicks. Hope that clears all this up. I do pray that all my girls lay eggs sooner rather than later but in a healthy manner for sure.

Okay that makes way more sense XD