How easy is it to bend 0.9mm hardware cloth?

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Sutremaine, Oct 13, 2014.

  1. Sutremaine

    Sutremaine Chillin' With My Peeps

    354
    34
    106
    Aug 19, 2014
    UK
    I've been seeing several comments on how easy it is to pull hardware cloth away from wood when the cloth is on the outside of the structure and held in by staples*. So I had the idea of extending the edge of the hardware cloth a little, wrapping it around the wood, and stapling it from the back. That way, anything pulling from the outside wouldn't be pulling on the staples at the exact angle they went in.

    'Course, there are probably easier ways of securely attaching the cloth to the wood.

    0. See above.
    1. Knock the staples in from above, at an angle. This assumes that anything yanking at the cloth will be pulling backwards and down.
    2. Use bolts and washers instead.
    3. Cover the staples and cloth edge with another strip of something, and attach it to the wood beneath however you please. The intention is to spread the load from one staple, to one staple plus an area of strip plus an area of whatever's holding the strip on.
    4. Cut a slot in the middle of the wood, slot the hardware cloth into it so that there's a strip of wire lying inside the slot, and then staple that wire in place. This assumes you have access to the necessary heavy machinery.

    Nothing's built yet, so I'm thinking that idea #2 would work the best, but is idea #0 mechanically sound?

    *I would easily believe this. There's a derelict caravan where I want the coop to be, and it's been pretty easy to take apart with just a hammer and a large, solid screwdriver. Once you wiggle the screwdriver in right next to a nail and between the things it's holding together, it's all over.
     
  2. tcstoehr

    tcstoehr Chillin' With My Peeps

    416
    44
    94
    Mar 25, 2014
    Canby, Oregon
    0: A fine idea where circumstances allow. Hardware cloth (19 gauge) does bend quite readily. Secure it to one side first, then bend it right at the corner.
    1: Hmmm, I see what you're saying. But I would prefer staples going straight down in the wood as deep as possible. IMO, this gives you the strongest link.
    2: Yes, yes, yes. Use screws with washers. Don't be afraid to drill pilot holes first. Or find screws with wide heads on them. I bought these from my local Wilco farm store but I forgot what they are called. Plenty strong.
    3: Another fine technique. Lay a strip of 1-inch (actually 3/4) across the edge of the hardware cloth and screw it to the wood below. Sandwich the hardware cloth between the two pieces of wood then screw them tightly together. People doing this report a *very* secure bond. Now imagine if you used this sandwich technique *and* wrapped the hardware cloth around top wood strip as you did it.
    4: This is a variation of the sandwich technique. I would think that it would work OK as long as you can cut a very narrow slot and the lumber is heavy enough to deal with this. Seems very difficult in practice to make this work on multi-sided panels. I wouldn't bother.

    I vote for 2, I have done this and it works great. I have also used poultry staples and they work good too. The trick with either one is to use your fasteners liberally, don't be skimpy.
    3 has had good reviews from folks who have used it. I use this technique for securing sheets of plastic.
     
  3. MeepBeep

    MeepBeep Chillin' With My Peeps


    One thing most people miss when doing hammer in fence staples is the rotation, it actually makes a difference in holding power... Not worth copying and pasting here, http://www1.foragebeef.ca/$foragebeef/frgebeef.nsf/all/frg35/$FILE/fencestaple.pdf ... But even rotated staples just don't have the holding power of other attachment methods...

    I mentioned in another thread, the tension bar from chain link fence works well, just drill holes and use lath screws, this allows you to secure the entire seam unlike washers... A little more costly then other methods but very secure...

    http://www.menards.com/main/p-2313450-c-5742.htm They have other lengths available...
    http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...-1-5-8-sharp-point-120ct/p-1452054-c-8938.htm I like the lath screws because they have a washer built into the head and are reasonably priced...

    I also glanced at shelving brackets that other day, they would work for those that don't want to drill...

    http://www.menards.com/main/storage...track-standard-platinum/p-1656313-c-13009.htm
     
  4. Sutremaine

    Sutremaine Chillin' With My Peeps

    354
    34
    106
    Aug 19, 2014
    UK
    Has it really been six days? I've been working on Beekissed's 'road less traveled' thread from a few years ago.

    Yes, #2 seemed like the best idea even as I was typing it out, and combining it with #3 would make it look very smart as well. I always drill pilot holes even when going through glorified cardboard, so that'll just be part of the process.

    I wasn't even thinking of rotation with the staples. Who'd have thought that knocking a piece of bent and sharpened wire into a piece of wood could be such an art?
     

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by