How is my coop ventilation for winter

Nov 15, 2020
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What part of the world am I in: I live in Utah, SLC
Dimensions of the coop (feet by feet is really helpful): Coop is a 5x6 Internal
How many birds live in the coop: I have 5 birds
Ages of the birds: Less then a year (bought April 2020)
Breeds of the birds: 2 Sex links and 3 Rhode Island Reds
Whether they have a protected run so they don't get forced to stay in the coop during storms: Open run (no cover) that is about 5x20 but they free rang in that backyard
Here are some pics of the coop:
 

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What part of the world am I in: I live in Utah, SLC
Dimensions of the coop (feet by feet is really helpful): Coop is a 5x6 Internal
How many birds live in the coop: I have 5 birds
Ages of the birds: Less then a year (bought April 2020)
Breeds of the birds: 2 Sex links and 3 Rhode Island Reds
Whether they have a protected run so they don't get forced to stay in the coop during storms: Open run (no cover) that is about 5x20 but they free rang in that backyard
Here are some pics of the coop:
You are lacking in ventilation. The waterer should also be removed from the coop.
The heat lamp definitely needs to go.
Can you please post pictures of the full coop exterior? All sides?
 
No. I added 2x4 there for winter, thinking that the cold months would let too much heat out... But I can possible remove them or drill holes in them
They should be removed.
All the vents need to be secured with 1/2" hardware cloth. I would secure it by screwing trim boards over the edges of the HC cloth making sure that none or no more than the tip of the screws penetrate the opposite side.
 
No. I added 2x4 there for winter, thinking that the cold months would let too much heat out... But I can possible remove them or drill holes in them

:frow I am next door(ish) in northern Colorado.

The goal should not be to keep heat in but rather allow warm moist air to rise and exit.
Opening the soffits is an excellent way to accomplish it.

I have open soffits on my coops and while the inside will be just as cold as the outside the birds down coats will keep them warm while the ventilation will help keep the coop dry.

I second the need for hardware cloth over the chicken wire.
 
I'd also open up the complete side vents--the part that has chicken wire, so that that whole "slope" is covered with hardware cloth and no boards. The one roost may be too close to the vent, exposing the birds to the wind, but they have two lower roosts. I had a completely closed coop in (one of) my old places where it got down to 10 degrees F (20 is more normal), and you want to close the windward side and open the leeward side.

TIP: If it's just you putting up the hardware cloth, you staple it to a few key points so you can take your time screwing it in. Start the screws in the boards that you use to hold it in place before getting up there to fasten the board etc.
 
Should I keep the side vets? You can see where I added some plywood to close up the vets (on both sides) for winter.
I'd open them more.
You can always install cardboard baffles inside the coop if there are drafts at roost level that are strong enough to open feathers.
 
One more item: The waterer. I put it in the coop so when the snow does start, it keeps the snow from piling up around it and hopefully preventing issues. It is a heated one. Should I still remove it from the coop?
Yes. At least at night to prevent excess moisture.
Where will the chickens go when it snows?
 
Apologies, but what do you mean by carboard baffles?
Also, do the roots need to be lower then the side vets so drafts don effect them while roosting at night?
I would remove the very top roost and possibly the second highest roost. Or at least lower the second roost.
Cardboard baffles are just pieces of cardboard you would cut out, fold over the ends and staple them inside the coop up high near the vents to divert any blowing wind that's coming inside the coop towards the roof so it doesn't blow down on the birds.
 

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