What breeds? Size will factor in quite a bit. A dwarf rabbit, even an English angora (about 6 pounds) really don't eat much. Once you start getting into ten pounds and over (ie. flemish giants weighing in at over 22 pounds), theeen it starts getting a bit pricier. But, there are ways to save. Also depends if you plan of free feeding pellets (I don't recommend it, a lot of pet rabbits I see are overweight, and I recently lost a sweet mini-lop who was freakishly obese when adopted to a stroke...fat bunnies=bad news), limited pellets with free access to timothy hay, higher or lower quality of hay, hay and assorted veggies, etc.
Cage wise, depends if it is inside or outside, and again on the size of the rabbit (and therefore the size of the hutch). Inside cages can be made especially on the cheap, as you do not need to worry about weather/predator protection (and you can litter box train rabbits...though males tend to still poop some outside their box). If using sand or dirt in litter boxes, you are fine on cost. If using something like condensed pine pellets (lack the harmful oils wood shavings have due to processing), or newspaper pellets....a large rabbit goes through a LOT of litter. A smaller one not nearly as much.
With most things, you can get the rabbit, cage, and sometimes food for free, or they can be more pricey especially with hidden costs (vet care especially).
We feed Oxbough hay and cheap compacted huge farm store bales for our timothy hay and orchard grass. We have to mix cheap hay in, because Oxbough hay is what drug dealers would sell rabbits. They will gourge themselves on it...and never...stop...eating. It smells like fresh tea leaves.
If you bought cheaper hay in bags from pet stores, two ten pound rabbits eat through a 12 dollar bag once a week. If you buy online, you can get 50 pounds of the good stuff for 50 dollars...and I imagine it'll last a while. It just arrived today. I think our mail delivery people probably hate us very much. The box is huge.
As one more side note, I would recommend a buck for a pet, as they tend to be tamer. Even very friendly does can be quite testy, even when spayed. Many spay/neuter clinics (where they only spay and neuter, no other vet care offered) tend to be a much cheaper way to get a rabbit spayed or neutered if desired. Only some are experienced with rabbits. Some ways to tell is if they offer rabbit-friendly pain medication after surgeries. If they don't, I wouldn't go. Then, you typically pay 30-60 dollars totaly, meds included, without the typical 60 dollar 'exam fee' at a regular vet clinic. Adopting from a shelter is usually an even cheaper way (in our area, usually it is 30 bucks for a rabbit).