How old should chicks be before transferring to the coop

[Cly]

Will depend on a lot of factors.

Have they been in sight of the main flock? Integration should always start with a see but don't touch approach for at least a week. Preferably with them being in a high-traffic area where they are in constant contact with the big girls.

Is it warm enough outside, including night time, for them to be without heat?

Are they interested in roosting or still going to ground to rest?

Are they much smaller than the big girls?

Is there ample space in the run, extra feed and water stations, areas where they can hide that breaks eye contact, but doesn't leave them cornered?

I would recommend letting them explore the run without the big girls present - I generally let mine free-range while the babies get used to the run. This way, they won't be running blind in territory they're not familiar with if they need to escape.

Also, introducing them one big girl at a time to see if anyone in particular is a troublemaker.

I put them out with their food and see which the big girl is more interested in. Be ready to step in - older hens can move pretty quick to attack.

'neutral ground's is better for this than 'home turf', so outside the run or in an area they don't frequent is best.

Chicks tend to start their pecking order behaviour at around 6 weeks, so would be an okay time if you can tick off the list above. Just remember, without a broody to protect them, it will be rough on them. You will have to step in as that broody to make sure things go smoothly.

Also, be extra vigilant at roosting time. Older girls tend to force younger ones off the perches and this is when I've experienced the most bullying in my flock. They can completely ignore them all day, then force them to sleep on the floor when it comes time to sleep, so make sure you're there to chaperone.

I appreciate all the things you’ve given me to consider. I have checked off a few things, but Will give consideration to the others and plan things out as I go. I think like you said, I will place the chicken pen inside the big pen so that they can get used to being around one another but be safe And observe the hens reactionThank you for your suggestions.

 

[Cly]

Like maybe a month
older than this one

She is cute as can be with that little head of hair, I mean feathers LOL. When I tuck my chicks in tonigh I will take a pic..

 

[Happy hen lover]

Also add think about adding clutter to run so they can hide under if necessary

 

[Cly]

Also add think about adding clutter to run so they can hide under if necessary

Clutter?

 

[Cly]

Also add think about adding clutter to run so they can hide under if necessary

Clutter?

 

[Cly]

I’m not sure I know what clutter means

 

[U_Stormcrow]

This is what I do. It works for me, it may not work for you.

I incubate a dozen eggs every three weeks. WHat hatches, hatches. Say.. nine on average.

Those go into a plastic tub with a heat plate. Starting about 10 days of age, they start getting outside time in a tiny chicken tractor I made from PCV and bird netting, weather permitting.

Not later than three weeks, but usually closer to two weeks, they get transfered to my grow out pen and attached run. The pen is in the barn, a door in the side of it offers access to a fenced run. There they join the birds from the last incubation. The birds from the incubation prior to that (8-9 weeks) get kicked to the adult flock.

The adult flock has two houses, a large run, and free ranges all day. They can see, and be seen by, the birds in the grow out pen all day long while free ranging.

Basically, my flocks are *always* integrating. The hatchlings with the juveniles 2-3 weeks, the juveniles with the adults at 8-9 weeks. Every couple weeks, theres a double move - just hatched into grow out, oldest grow out into adult flock.

Keys to remember:

1) Abundance is a social lubricant. Being seen eating, ranging, digging dust baths under greenery, drinking, etc w/o intruding on bigger birds' sources reeduces friction.

2) Pecking order is real. Even in the best circumstances, some pecking will occur. Blood spots on the comb are not a reason to intervene. Group attacks on the hind quarters, extreme feather pulling, open neck wounds - take the injured and move it back to the last place. ALSO - chickens don't have a strong sense of object permanence - if intergrating in the run, be sure to add tunnels, boxes, etc to block line of sight. Dead ends are bad. Narrow runs where a single aggressive hen can command the space are bad.

3) even with perfect integration, birds will still fail to use the nesting boxes correctly when they begin laying, at least half the time. and its better to have more perch space than less - at different heights.

 

[Happy hen lover]

Oh random things the little ones can get under like a small plastic dog crate, boards laying at on angle against a fence etc. Thanks U stormcrow

 

[3KillerBs]

Here are some useful articles on integration:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-coop-brooder-and-integration.74591/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/introducing-new-chickens-using-the-“see-but-don’t-touch”-method.67839/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/adding-to-your-flock.47756/


Clutter: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

As far as the heat goes, you can wean them off heat when they're well-feathered. How long that takes depends on the individual bird. The Splits had been off heat and dealing with 50F nights for a while by the time they were 4 weeks old. But my 2 Langshan cockerels were slow-feathering and still semi-naked at 6 weeks.

 

[Cly]

This is what I do. It works for me, it may not work for you.

I incubate a dozen eggs every three weeks. WHat hatches, hatches. Say.. nine on average.

Those go into a plastic tub with a heat plate. Starting about 10 days of age, they start getting outside time in a tiny chicken tractor I made from PCV and bird netting, weather permitting.

Not later than three weeks, but usually closer to two weeks, they get transfered to my grow out pen and attached run. The pen is in the barn, a door in the side of it offers access to a fenced run. There they join the birds from the last incubation. The birds from the incubation prior to that (8-9 weeks) get kicked to the adult flock.

The adult flock has two houses, a large run, and free ranges all day. They can see, and be seen by, the birds in the grow out pen all day long while free ranging.

Basically, my flocks are *always* integrating. The hatchlings with the juveniles 2-3 weeks, the juveniles with the adults at 8-9 weeks. Every couple weeks, theres a double move - just hatched into grow out, oldest grow out into adult flock.

Keys to remember:

1) Abundance is a social lubricant. Being seen eating, ranging, digging dust baths under greenery, drinking, etc w/o intruding on bigger birds' sources reeduces friction.

2) Pecking order is real. Even in the best circumstances, some pecking will occur. Blood spots on the comb are not a reason to intervene. Group attacks on the hind quarters, extreme feather pulling, open neck wounds - take the injured and move it back to the last place. ALSO - chickens don't have a strong sense of object permanence - if intergrating in the run, be sure to add tunnels, boxes, etc to block line of sight. Dead ends are bad. Narrow runs where a single aggressive hen can command the space are bad.

3) even with perfect integration, birds will still fail to use the nesting boxes correctly when they begin laying, at least half the time. and its better to have more perch space than less - at different heights.