how to select the right coup and run. I have been looking at tractor supply at coups and runs for about 14 to 16 chickens, why only 3 nesting boxes.

[McChooky]

Pass on prefabs. They are nothing but trouble
They can only hold a fourth of the birds They say, underventilated, not predator proof, and are made cheaply.
A coop should have atleast 4 sq feet per bird in the coop, 8 sq per bird in the run, 12" linear per bird for the roosts, 1 square foot per bird in ventilation, and 1 nest box per 4 birds.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/categories/large-coops.20/
A chicken lays every 26-29 hours at the most, most lay an egg every other day or longer.
I recommend brown leghorn, prolific layers with good feed conversion.
For eggs for 8 people, plus to sell you'll need about 20-25 birds and cycle every 2 years.

I get a dozen eggs a day from 9 brown leghorns ( white eggs )and 11 brown and blue egg layers. I add chicks every year so my oldest are only 3. I keep 3 big hens for broody hens because they can cover a lot of eggs or chicks

 

[rosemarythyme]

For 14-16 birds you're looking at coops in this category, so this is the sort of sizing you should be considering: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/categories/large-coops.20/

Also keep in mind that chickens lay most reliably the first 18-24 months, after that you either need to cycle them out or integrate in new chicks or pullets. Do you have a plan on what to do with older layers, or when and how you would add more birds? If the flock might continue to grow over time, you'll need extra space to be able to allow for it.

 

[Acre4Me]

Where are you located? Your climate matters!!

If you are in a cold zone, you will want 4 walls and upper ventilation so their roost area is draft free. There are many ways to achieve this. If you are in a hot zone, you can have only a 2-3 wall structure with the roost area in the shielded part that remains dry and out of the wind. The other “walls” need to be welded wire (not chicken wire) to keep them safe.

To get enough eggs for your family of eight and to possibly sell, I’ll recommend that at least half to 3/4 of the birds should be high production layers. You may want to consider planning for spring chicks every year too. The younger ones tend to lay best through their first winter. The older hens lay larger eggs after they’ve had a main molt, prior to their second winter, so keeping a mixed age flock can be a good thing.

If you are in a hot zone, don’t get heavily feathered breeds like Brahmas. You’ll do better with regular to lighter feathered breeds. Mediterranean breeds are great for hot areas, such as leghorns, but there are others.

If you live in a wet area, or where the springtime is very wet, for example, then look at where you are considering housing them. Address drainage issues now, and maybe consider an elevated coop. We elevated our walk-in coop about 2.5-3’ above the ground, and it stays very dry, unless we have heavy, blowing rain for an extended period and that is the only time the exposed corner gets wet briefly.

Good luck

 

[nuthatched]

I get a dozen eggs a day from 9 brown leghorns ( white eggs )and 11 brown and blue egg layers. I add chicks every year so my oldest are only 3. I keep 3 big hens for broody hens because they can cover a lot of eggs or chicks

Sounds good, I'm calculating an egg and a half per person per day.

 

[Etiene]

Are these coups and runs, like at tractor supply any good or do they not last. If you have 14 chickens why only 3 nesting boxes. As you can tell i am a beginner and don't want to waste my money or time. I would like enough eggs to support food for 8 family members and to sell some. I would appreciate any guidance you could give me. Thank you

I bought a coop at TS. I attached 1x6 ground contact would to bottom standing on end. Painted it with good outdoor paint. After three years the roof rotted from rain water. It’s now under a covered run. Good luck.

 

[BDutch]

Pass on prefabs. They are nothing but trouble
They can only hold a fourth of the birds They say, underventilated, not predator proof, and are made cheaply.
A coop should have atleast 4 sq feet per bird in the coop, 8 sq per bird in the run, 12" linear per bird for the roosts, 1 square foot per bird in ventilation, and 1 nest box per 4 birds.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/categories/large-coops.20/

Good reply so far. In general prefabs are not the way to go. Other repliers state the same but…
Prefabs and just a few hens or several bantams are a possible match, sometimes. That is with a few changes on the prefab, with more ventilation and a new roof after a few years. Prefabs are not an option if there are heavy predators , or hurricanes in your area.

I have one in use for 12 years now. Only as a ‘bedroom’ for one bantam that prefers to sleep alone and for the 2 nest boxes all 6 chickens use.

A chicken lays every 26-29 hours at the most, most lay an egg every other day or longer.

This refers to laying hybrids and high productive breeds.

I recommend brown leghorn, prolific layers with good feed conversion.
For eggs for 8 people, plus to sell you'll need about 20-25 birds and cycle every 2 years.

This is a personal choice. I eat less eggs, prefer chickens that last longer and don’t kill my chickens every other year.

 

[angeldiver]

I have had two prefabs that I use when I integrate new chicks. One barely made it through one year. My older hens all live in a double door wooden shed kit that I bought from Lowe’s. Paid less for it than I would have a home-built chicken coop. Laid only half the floor down, built a wall so that the girls have 2/3 of the coop, with the other 1/3 for feed/bedding, etc. storage. I have a walk-in door for each side. Attached a huge run and voila!

 

[TooCheep]

Do not get a prefab!! (Are you sensing a pattern here?)

• Prefabs are made cheaply and do not last.
• Prefabs consistently and greatly exaggerate how many chickens they can properly hold. They use factory farm numbers for spacing, not the more humane numbers that backyard chicken owners use to minimize overcrowding and behavioral problems. I started with a 6-bird prefab that was slightly overcrowded for my 3 adult chickens.

Since you appear to be new to chicken owning, there is a lot to learn. Take the time before diving in. Your chickens will be better off for the effort.

One item that you may not have thought about yet: Chickens live for a variable number of years- 4-8 is common, but I've heard of some that last much longer. Their useful egg-laying life is 2 or 3 seasons. Think about how you will handle them after that.

As others have noted, location is important for a lot of questions. Please put your general location in your profile to help us help you. Welcome to chicken life!

 

[ccory1234]

Are these coups and runs, like at tractor supply any good or do they not last. If you have 14 chickens why only 3 nesting boxes. As you can tell i am a beginner and don't want to waste my money or time. I would like enough eggs to support food for 8 family members and to sell some. I would appreciate any guidance you could give me. Thank you

They are very cheaply made and are weak. Build your own coop or get someone handy to make you one. Chickens share nesting boxes, I have 15 that share nests, but only use 2. But they often use a different two from week to week.

 

[BDutch]

Their useful egg-laying life is 2 or 3 seasons. Think about how you will handle them after that.

What is useful?
True, chickens often stop laying during the winter period when 2 or 3 yo. But most older hens still give many eggs from early spring till the moult in autumn. For me keeping chickens is not for a living. And older chickens are fun to have around too.

Chickens live for a variable number of years- 4-8 is common, but I've heard of some that last much longer.

Yes some live much longer. Last december a 21 year old chicken died (exceptional);
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smar...-living-chicken-at-21-years-of-age-180982850/