How would I attach a cage to a rubbermaid storage container?

barbieszoo

Songster
9 Years
Sep 7, 2010
229
3
103
Stillwater, OK
Does anyone have any idea how I could construct a chicken tractor from a pre-made 36X30x30 rabbit cage as shown here
http://www.tractorsupply.com/pet-ca...house-trade-rabbit-cage-30-in-x36-in--2179677

by connecting it to a large rubbermaid-type storage container as the shelter? I mainly need help figuring out how best to attach the two. Could I drill holes in the storage container and wire them together? I would cut a small entrance for them in the side of the container and have the lid facing up so I could easily get in and clean it out. Would that be fairly predator-proof (we live in town with a double-fenced backyard). I realize it would be small and not real pretty, but it would only be for two silkie bantam hens, and I would let them out loose for a while each day when I am home. If anyone has done anything like this before or has any pointers, I'd love to hear them. Thanks a bunch! Kristy
 
Bolts and Washers come to mind... hole through side of container, put washer on bolt and thread through side and then through side of pen, another washer and then the nut... enough to secure (no idea what number that'd be)

Make sure that the bin is supported enough if it's up from the ground... which I would definitely do, we just had our neighbor's THREE large dogs rip through the wooden privacy fence... no damage to our dogs or chickens but DH's leg took a bite (dogs are gone now, girl moved and the biter I think is dead?)... so, don't depend on just a fence is my advice.... of course we also get coons, possums, foxes, skunks... in this neighborhood... and it's smack between Dallas and Ft Worth... NOT country at all.

Oh, and leaving the bin lid on the top, awesome... but make sure it's secure... maybe a latch on three sides and hinges on the other (again you can use bolts instead of plain nails) so that no kids OR animals can get in easily.... or even latches all around and just leave one closed when you're opening it up... doubles as hinges... ehh... might work.

Adding a roost... you'll need 8" per bird... minimum for standard, donno the min for banties... hmmm... you know, honestly I think I'd drop the roost from the lid rather than bracing it on the sides of a plastic container... kinda like a drop ceiling idea... then when you open her up to clean out the roost is already out of your way... and if you wanted to partition off one end for a nest then the drop thing could still work without having to try and meander around a non-supported partition piece...

Ohh this has got me thinking of all sorts of nifty ideas!!
 
Ok this is what we did to put the babies outside but they are not big enough to go in with the older ones. Its not a tote but you could probably do the same thing with that I would just worry about something getting through the plastic. Can you build a larger pen and sit the tote insdie the pen? here is ours
62756_babycoop.jpg
 
Well, I just HAD to see what I could see... I admit it, I'm a paintbrush addict...

Anywho, here's what I managed for what it's worth...

totecoop.jpg


Roost doesn't run all the way across so roost poo doesn't land in nest... well, best laid plans I bet they find a way anyways.

Roost to ceiling... use bolt and washer through plumber's tape to connect to roof... run down then attach with screw and washer to bottom of 2"x2" roost beam... depending on total height of tote... best to have 12" for standards head room, banties maybe 10? In a 17" tote that means only 7" up from the floor... so you'd want to place the beam towards the back (6" from side butt room) so that there's a little walking room in there....
 
Wow - you've put a lot of thought into this. Thank you so much! I thought I was the only one who obsessed over things like this?
big_smile.png
That was almost exactly what I was thinking, just wondering how best to keep the lid easily removeable for me to clean and get the chickies in and out, but to make it hard for predators to squeeze in under the lid (which would have a plastic handle latch at each end already)? I use a lot of baling wire since I have a horse. Wonder if I could just make little holes and wire it on, leaving twisty ends I can undo to get the lid open? Again, thanks for the help!!
Kristy
 
You might want to call Tractor Supply for the 3rd dimension of your cage if you really need it to be 30 inches deep also. I only saw a rectangular shaped cage with a 30" length, and they did mention the height.

I like your idea- just be aware that your depth might not really be 30". Also if you are going to be in hot weather ever with your plastic bin, be aware that you might want it in the shade or it might become an oven. Just some suggestions!

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Yes, we've got loads of constant shade for summer underneath a huge maple tree right near our house inside our inner fence, which is right where I'm wanting to put the chickens. And the dimensions don't have to be exact - I think I can work with it as long as I can get the cage and the container attached firmly together and secured closed against critters. Thanks - I'm grateful for all suggestions!
Kristy
 
There's a BYC user, rebelcowboy, that was really thinking outside the box with the pens he designed. I hope he doesn't mind, but I really like the ingenuity (I'm not sure how he connected them though): http://cmfarm.us/cheapcoop.html I like the one in the middle of the page with the inverted tubs on top of the pens.
 
I use rabbit cages/rubbermaid containers for temporary quarters at times. I use bungie cords to attach the components together. Then you can separate things easily. I don't have racoons to worry about, but so far this system has kept my dogs out. I put a patio block on top of the rubbermaid top to be sure that it doesn't come off. This also, keeps a 3x3 or so piece of plywood on top of everything, too. Be mindful of sun on the rubbermaid. I use the plywood to cover the container with some overhang to shade it during the day. It covers some of the cage, too.
Add some ventilation near the top of the container, but not on the top. I punch holes with a knife. You will know that you have enough when there is no condensation on the inside of the top after a night.
Silkies may or may not use a roost. They like sleeping in a "pile".
Dale-Ann
 

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