I am a terrible chicken owner :(...mite problem please help!

[casportpony]

The external parasites may have gotten to your silkie, particularly mites from sucking blood, or the ivermectin you used on her is causing an adverse reaction. You never mentioned how much ivermectin you used on your silkie or other birds.
If you suspect your silkie is eggbound, soak her in a container of warm water up to her sides and gently massage her underside for about 20 minutes. The warm water will relax and expand her innards, massaging will help move the egg along. Then hopefully she'll lay the stuck egg, IF that's what the problem is.
I recommend that you hold off for about a month or longer before worming, you've given them enough chemicals for now (dust and ivermectin.)

Good advice.

Get yourself some latex gloves, KY Jelly and do an exam. Be careful, if she does have a stuck egg, you don't want to break it.

 

[JodiLynn]

Awesome! I was just about to pm you Dawg. I put one drop from a syringe without needle on her. I just did it this morning and she was acting funny before that. I'm a grad student and in class for the day but when I get Home I will try a bath and examine her well. I have chicks that ate 2 weeks old in the barn but they don't have direct contact with the older ones. I got about ten of them checked before school and the two BO that are laying had them but I did not see any on the younger ones that are about 18 weeks. Should I treat them regardless?

 

[casportpony]

Source: http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/07/chicken-egg-binding-causes-symptoms.html

Jul 20, 2012

Chicken Egg Binding. Causes, Symptoms, Treatment, Prevention


Email ThisBlogThis!Share to TwitterShare to Facebook

​

When a hen is unable to lay an egg she has created and the egg is stuck inside her oviduct, she is referred to as being egg-bound. Egg-binding can be a life-threatening condition that must be addressed quickly, preferably by a seasoned, avian veterinarian. If the egg is not passed within 24-48 hours, the hen is likely to perish.

Causes:
Calcium or other nutritional deficiency
Obesity
Excessively large or misshapen egg
Oviduct infection
Premature layer (hen began laying eggs before her body was fully mature)
Egg retention due to lack of sufficient nesting areas

​

An overview of a hen's reproductive system is important in order to know where an egg may be stuck.*

​

A hen's uterus (aka: shell gland) is the muscle responsible for squeezing the egg out of the vent. Since muscles require calcium to contract properly, if a hen has a calcium deficiency, the egg can get stuck in the uterus.

​

Symptoms:

• Loss of appetite
• Disinterest in drinking
• Shaky wings
• Walking like a penguin
• Abdominal straining
• Frequent, uncharacteristic sitting
• Passing wet droppings or none at all (egg interferes with normal defecation)
• Droopy/depressed/pale comb and wattles

This photo is on the internet as a funny hen, but the likely cause of this posture is egg-binding.​

​

Dangers:

• Infection
• Prolapsed uterus
• Damage to oviduct
• Bleeding
• Death

Prevention:

• Avoid supplemental lighting with young pullets to avoid premature egg-laying
• Feed layer ration, which is carefully formulated to provide balanced nutrition to laying hens
• Make available oyster shell (or another calcium source) free-choice (never add to the feed)
• Avoid excess treats that can interfere with balanced nutrition in layer ration
• Avoid treats in the summer heat when feed intake is reduced & supply additional oyster shell containers

​

Treatment:
Calcium (injection, liquid or via vitamins & electrolyte solution)
Warm bath
Apply KY jelly
Massage
To assess whether a hen is egg-bound at home, gently feel on either side of her vent with one hand (think: squeezing the cheeks of a cute kid). If an egg is felt, giving the hen calcium is the first course of action. Absent liquid calcium, vitamins and electrolytes in the water contain calcium and can help. Even if she's not interested in drinking, try to get some into her with a dropper or syringe carefully. If she is too weak to drink, don't try it. The calcium may be enough to get her to pass the egg on her own within a half hour or so.

​

Put the hen in a tub of warm water for 15-20 minutes, which will hydrate her vent and relax her, making it easier to pass the egg.

After a warm bath, some KY jelly applied to the vent can also help hydrate the cloaca to allow for ease of passage when the egg gets to that point (don’t use olive oil, as it can become rancid). Massage the area around the egg gently towards the vent, being careful not to break the eggshell.

​

At this point, put her in a crate in a darkened, quiet room. If a truly egg-bound hen does not pass the egg within an hour of these measures, the egg may need to be manually removed, which can be dangerous but is possible but proceed at your own risk.

"If she still hasn't expelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.

"First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside dwn). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.

Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together (although broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days."


Additional reading and resources:
http://www.avianweb.com/Prolapse.htm
http://www.avianweb.com/eggbinding.html

*Anatomical illustrations and photo reproduced for educational purposes, courtesy of Jacquie Jacob, Tony Pescatore and Austin Cantor, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Copyright 2011. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director, Land Grant Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington,and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright 2011 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational and nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Issued 02-2011

​

I invite you to follow my blog, which will deliver the latest posts directly to your email inbox, Blogger dashboard, Facebook newsfeed via NetworkedBlogs or RSS feed! (see left-hand sidebar for subscription options)
Join me on Facebook!​

You might also like:​

Holy egg, Batman! How'd the hen survive this delivery?​

The Egg Carton Store Giveaway!​

Hatch-along with The Chicken Chick, Part 6: The Longest Week​

Hatch-along with The Chicken Chick, Part 5: Be ...​

LinkWithin​

• Disqus

Glad you liked it. Would you like to share?

Facebook
Twitter

• Share
• No thanks

Login
Add New Comment

Please wait…

• Post as …
• Image

Sort by popular nowSort by best ratingSort by newest firstSort by oldest first
Showing 5 of 24 comments

• 
  Anonymous 1 comment collapsed Collapse Expand
  Hi Kathy,
  i was wondering why wouldn't it be wise to add oyster shells to the feed?
  
  • A Like
  • Reply
  • 08/21/2012 07:22 PM
  • 2 Likes
  • F
• 
  Kathy Shea Mormino 1 comment collapsed Collapse Expand
  I'm so sorry to hear about your duck. I don't keep ducks, so I'm not sure what their laying behaviors may be. There's really no way of knowing what happened to her without a necropsy though. Again, I'm terribly sorry for your loss.
  
  • A Like
  • Reply
  • 10/04/2012 05:02 AM
  • F
• 
  Anonymous 1 comment collapsed Collapse Expand
  my husband then I have 10 hens 4 ducks and 4 baby ducks they are all in the same pen together and seem to get along fine... I get on average 7 to 9 eggs 8 day but sometimes I get 1 extremely large egg... do ducks lay there eggs in the hen nest... I got up this morning to let them out and found 1 of my hens dead with an egg half in and half out of her it didn't look like an extremely large egg.. any ideas on what could have happened and how I can prevent that from happening again?
  
  • A Like
  • Reply
  • 10/03/2012 05:35 PM
  • F
• 
  Anonymous 1 comment collapsed Collapse Expand
  thanks kathy
  
  • A Like
  • Reply
  • 08/23/2012 06:55 PM
  • F
• 
  Kathy Mormino 1 comment collapsed Collapse Expand
  Layer feed already contains calcium and the oyster shell is provided to aid the hens who know that they need more calcium than that in the layer freed to avail themselves of it. Not all laying hens need calcium beyond the amount provided in the layer feed and excess calcium, which can cause liver damage.

 

[casportpony]

http://www.avianweb.com/eggbinding.html

Egg Binding​

Breeding Challenges​

Egg binding refers to a common and potentially serious condition where a female bird is unable to pass an egg that may be stuck near the cloaca, or further inside the reproductive tract. Even though egg binding can occur in any female bird, it is most common in smaller birds such as lovebirds, cockatiels, budgies and finches.
The potential of an egg breaking inside the tract is high, which then can result in an infection or damage to internal tissue; and - if left untreated - death.
The bound egg may be gently massaged out; failing this it may become necessary for a vet to break the egg inside and remove it in parts. If broken, the oviduct should be cleaned of shell fragments and egg residue to avoid damage or infection.


Suspected causes for egg binding include:

• Low Calcium Levels or Hypocalcaemia Syndrome associated with low calcium levels in the blood. Supplementing the breeding hen with a diet rich in calcium and Vitamin D is an important factor in preventing this problem
  • You could provide a dish filled with crushed egg shell (from boiled eggs to kill any bacteria) and/or attach a calcium / mineral block to the cage.
  • In areas where access to natural sunlight is limited (such as in the northern hemisphere during the winter months), full-spectrum lamps can be used to provide UVA and UVB rays.
  • Please click here for natural food sources rich in Vitamin D
  • Potentially discuss supplementation with your vet. Supplementation needs to be carefully screen ed and supervised by a vet since an excess of vitamin D (in the form of a supplement) causes kidney damage and retards growth.
  • Relevant Article: Natural Calcium for Birds - Sources and Absorbability
• Malnutrition caused by seed-only or low-protein diets. Please click here for information on bird nutrition.
  
• Sedentary lifestyle: Often the case when birds are kept in enclosures / cages that are too small for them. The lack of exercise causes poorly developed muscles and obesity.
  
• At particular risk are sick and old birds.
  
• Pet birds can also develop this problem, as birds don't need a mate to lay eggs. (Obviously, solitary egg-laying females won't produce fertile eggs.)

Also refer to Chronic Egg Laying and Thin-shelled, soft-shelled, no-shell, porous, misshaped / deformed eggs


Clinical Signs:
Loss of appetite, depression, abdominal straining, and sitting fluffed on the bottom of the cage. Some hens may pass large wet droppings while others may not pass any droppings due to the egg's interfering with normal defecation.

If you suspect that your bird is egg-bound, she should be seen by a vet immediately. The veterinarian may be able to feel the egg in the bird's abdomen. An x-ray may be necessary to confirm the diagnosis. Sometimes medical treatment will enable the hen to pass her egg. Occasionally surgery is necessary.
Complications from being egg bound can be swelling, bleeding or prolapse of the oviduct.


Treatment:
If in doubt as to if the hen is egg bound or not, a few vet sites recommend separation, warmth, warm bath and calcium to all hens in lay that seem distressed.
This is a life-threatening condition and should be addressed by a qualified avian vet. Your vet may discuss:

• Calcium shots - immediate solution to help the egg shell harden allowing the hen to hopefully pass it
• Lupron shots to stop hens from going into breeding condition
• Spaying your hen as a permanent solution

The following are samples of actions that have resolved this problem for some birds (please note: not all hens can be saved, especially if it's critical by the time the problem was discovered and no vet is available or can be reached in time). Egg-bound hens go into profound cardiovascular collapse and may not be able to put in the effort to push the egg out without intervention.

• Suspected egg binding: Keep her in a warm area. Provide supportive care.

• Place the bird into a steamy room, such as bathroom with shower on until the bathroom mirrors and windows steam up. Desired temperature: 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit / Humidity: 60%. Place bird on wet towel. The warmth relaxes the hen so that the vent can dilate more allowing the egg to pass.
  
• A warm water bath can also be of great help (shallow water, of course, you don't want to drown the hen). This relaxes her muscles and often the hen will pass the egg into the water. Make the water as warm as you would like to take a long soak in.
  
• Massage the muscles in that area with olive oil. In many cases, this lead to a successful passing of the egg. Note: there is a risk associated with messaging this area. It could cause the egg inside to break - which is life-threatening. Be very careful! If in doubt, it's always best to have the vet take care of it ...
  
• Even if the cause is not hypocalcaemia in this hen’s case it will not hurt her to have more calcium.
  
• Applying a personal lubricant, such as KY jelly to her vent may also be helpful.
  
• To reduce swelling on her vent, some breeders reported success in applying Preparation H to her vent.
  
• Successful Passing of the Egg: Following passing of the egg keep the hen in a warm and quiet area separate from the others, until she is out of shock and back to eating and drinking well.
  
• Prevention: Provide bird with high-calorie, high-calcium food to help strengthen future eggs and prevent egg binding. Click here for information on bird nutrition.

• Also refer to Chronic Egg Laying

Avianweb Visitor Allen McRae, whose Cordon Blue Finch was egg-bound, followed some of the instructions above and wrote back:

"It worked! We're not sure which suggestion worked. My wife gave her some calcium as well as bath water, and when I went home for lunch she had passed the egg and looked 100% better. My wife gives them water to bathe in daily, so I'm not sure what exactly helped her pass the egg. It was lying in the water, the shell was cracked in half, with one side still containing the yolk."​

 

[my sunwolf]

I would put poultry dust in they spots where they dust bathe and dust all of them. I would also spray the coop and places they roost with Sevin, just water won't do a thing. BYC's Dawg53 like to use a leaf blower and dust inside the coop, so that's an option, too.

This is what I use:

I know that the last photo has pyrethrin in it, can you use these in the bedding and on the birds and still eat the eggs? What about for Sevin? Thank you, I'm very worried about mites in the coops because my girls have been getting tattered feathers and it's not lice, molting, feather picking, or roosters...

JodiLynn, good luck to you, I can't imagine dusting that many chickens!!

 

[dawg53]

Quote: I agree, might be tough to do with a silkie though. I've checked out standards in that manner. Inserting finger in the vent stretches it, the jelly lubricates internally to let the hen lay the egg much easier.

 

[JodiLynn]

I give free choice oyster shell but do give greens/oatmeal/corn ect.about three times a.week as a treat. Is this to much? As soon as I give her a bath I will post and let everyone know how it goes. Pray for my lady dutchess!

 

[casportpony]

I know that the last photo has pyrethrin in it, can you use these in the bedding and on the birds and still eat the eggs? What about for Sevin? Thank you, I'm very worried about mites in the coops because my girls have been getting tattered feathers and it's not lice, molting, feather picking, or roosters...

JodiLynn, good luck to you, I can't imagine dusting that many chickens!!

I still eat the eggs after treatment, but I like to live dangerously.

 

[casportpony]

I agree, might be tough to do with a silkie though. I've checked out standards in that manner. Inserting finger in the vent stretches it, the jelly lubricates internally to let the hen lay the egg much easier.

I just did a 500 gram Old English Banty and I have medium sized womens hands, so I don't think it will be a problem.

 

[casportpony]

I give free choice oyster shell but do give greens/oatmeal/corn ect.about three times a.week as a treat. Is this to much? As soon as I give her a bath I will post and let everyone know how it goes. Pray for my lady dutchess!

When I suspect egg problems, I give 500mg of my calcium to the smaller hens and more to my big turkeys. Seems that the calcium helps them lay down shell and push the egg out.