I made a new brooder prototype. Gonna make some nicer looking ones and start selling them :)

[EvanAlexJames]

Any advice on the design would be very welcome. Entire build is made of 2x2 pine (and a few 2x3s) and 1/2in hardware cloth.

We will also be making custom coroplast liners for the bottom to keep shavings in, as well as a few other tweaks (like making it shorter, for one lol). Thoughts?

After I make it look a bit better (this was rushed for personal use, as my eggs hatched 3 days early), what do you think cost should be? It’s 27” wide, 4’ long, with two doors and a removable wall in center so you can choose to use it as one big brooder or two smaller ones. The final product will only be 18” tall, but this is 28” tall.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Looks nice.

I would omit the divider, I don't see how that could be split into 2 brooders, each section would be too small for food/water and heat.

What is in the bottom? A particle type board? That may come apart with moisture over time. Coroplast in the bottom would be quite slippery, so wood would probably be best.

Can't say what the cost should be. How much you spent on materials, time, etc. etc. should dictate the price.

 

[aart]

27" x 48" is rather small.
You'll find out how good the size will work out as you raise your just hatched chicks.
Then you can decide whether to build more just like it or change things up.

 

[DobieLover]

I would omit the divider

X2

I would add a side door for cleaning it out. You'd be surprised at what a PITA it is to reach over the side to clean it out. If you have a side door, you can open the lid and use a broom to sweep everything out then re-bed. That's what I did with the built-in brooder in my coop.
I would also not use Coroplast to build up the bottom sidewalls to keep the chicks from kicking out bedding. You can just use luan or something like that on the outside of the hardware cloth. Much cheaper.

 

[Shadrach]

Purpose built broody coops/isolation units are a great asset to any chicken keeper who intends to for their hens to hatch chicks or by using an incubator.
What to do with the chicks after they've hatched tends to be a bit of an afterthought for many.
My first comment is this isn't suitable for outside use. Making such structures weather proof is a priority.
Next, a problem I struggles with is making the broody coops predator proof and still have the advantage of having the coop mobile.
The best solution I've found so far is an idea from a friend of mine who went to the trouble of making what he calls nail bars. Basically nail bars are strips of wood with predrilled holes in at one inch intervals. These are fixed to the sides of the base woodwork all around the coop. 6inch nails, longer if you can find them are pushed through the predrilled hole and then hammered into the ground. When the coop is moved the nail bars pull out of the ground; not perfect but better than nothing.

Ime chicks and mums fare better if they can access natural ground as early as possible. Most mums I had got their chicks on to natuaral ground winthin a couple of days.

You might find something like this coop I built gives you some ideas. Both floors are removable.

 

[TheOddOneOut]

Too small for more than 2 or 3 chicks

 

[Wyorp Rock]

27" x 48" is rather small.

I would add a side door for cleaning it out.

Agreed.

Good idea about the side door.

27x48 is a bit small, depending on how many chicks and how long they stay in there.

Also, consideration for how well something like a brooder plate will fit in there would be a good idea. My plate is 18.9 in. x 12 in. so it would fit, but a little tight when you put in plate, food/water. Brooder would work fine for a small number of chicks for 2-3 weeks or 1 sick/injured bird.
Then they would need much more room.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Size-wise it's similar to my brooder, which is 29"x44" and holds about 4 chicks until about 4 weeks old.

With this brooder design, is this intended for indoor use? Outdoor use? In-coop use? And in what kind of climate? I have to assume indoor as there's no draft protection. If you were to add a protected section like the one Shadrach shows above, that would make it more versatile in being usable indoors or out (dependent on climate).

I agree about side doors, in fact, I'd opt for side doors vs having the access hatch on top, as chicks respond better to not having people reaching down on them from above.

 

[EvanAlexJames]

Thank you to everyone for your suggestions!

I feel I should clarify that the coop is being used for 5 bantams (and one injured 4-week-old barred rock). My bantams are 1 week old as of now and doing great with my hobbled girl (she’s finally walking on her own now!).

The back door for cleaning is DEFINITELY a good idea haha and making it longer would work for me as well for more chicks. I’d also like to get a permanent bottom and make it weather-proof for outside use (I use it inside only, but for future projects).

The divider came in clutch while my little girl was hobbled. I kept her with just one of the chicks. Now, she’s in general population with the babies and doing great!

Thank you again for your suggestions!

 

[Acre4Me]

Brooder:
1. needs at least 2 solid sides bc baby chicks need to have a draft-free zone. We use a solid sided brooder, only top is wire lids. In cold weather, we cover the heat plate side with an old towel at night, or if using a heat lamp, towel goes over other side from the lamp. Our brooder is in an unheated barn. Plus, with solid sides they freak out less.

2. The lids go down, but need some cutouts to place a cord and not have it lift the lid.

3. Size: once they are 2+ weeks old, any water or food will be full of bedding or poop. Extending it for food water….OR building it so there are side mounted feed and water options (like pvc ones) would be needed so the brooder can age well with the chicks as they grow.

4. Lid stability: something will push that mesh in … in my world that would be kid/teen that puts the 7lb feeder on it…then piles on a few other things bc it’s a flat surface (soon to be pushed in).