Ideas for heat using car battery and timer to go on at night

[rebelcowboysnb]

I know for a fact (by testing it) that a 5 watt bulb will raise the temp of a one foot cube of liquid medium by well over 50*F. At -20*F that would bring it up to 30*F+. Never tested it past 50* of heat but I would guess it would get to around 70* of added heat. So if I had to guess it would bring the average waterier well over 32*(close to 50*) in a room that is -20*.

Apparently because I'm from Georgia I know nothing about heat transfer. I wonder if it matters that I have combined 13+ years of training an teaching in thermodynamics as a fireman.

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
Well, I'm sorry, I'm not a physicist or a fireman, I just know what actually happens when you try to warm things up with various wattages in cold weather, because I have DONE it a lot.

Remember there is a lot of heat loss going on at -20F. You cannot have perfect insulation, a) because it is infeasible and b) because the chickens have to have access to the water.


Pat

 

[rebelcowboysnb]

I didn't say ya need all that insulation.
If ya had perfect insulation then one watt would eventually boil the water. But if ya had at least good insulation (plastic coated foam waterier with just an open drinking hole) then it would only take about 1.75 watts for every cubic foot at -20* to hold it just above freezing.

Its not hard to freeze water beside, over or under a light-bulb.
Its very hard to freeze water with a lit bulb in it.

Not even sure its possible short of using large water containers, micro amp range bulbs or arctic weather.

Your welcome to prove me wrong. I think it would be neat to see a lit 5W taillight bulb frozen in a milk-jug shaped block of ice. Just dont think -20* will do it.

If I had a empty freezer I would try it an see how cold it would take but I'm not dumping my food out.

 

[Akane]

Maybe you'll keep water thawed that way but you are going to lose way too much heat to do much else.

At -20F you are not going to get the air temp in a sizeable coop to beyond 32F. You probably won't even get a small area of that coop beyond 32F. You will not keep eggs thawed or chickens that warm. You don't really need to keep the chickens warm unless you have cold sensitive breeds and even then you need to keep their combs warm more than their feet. Even on my sensitive breeds the combs were all that got damaged in our week of -20 to -30 weather. With or without heat rising from under them (I pointed the space heater under the roosts) it made little difference. Too much heat was lost before it got to their heads and a 250w heat lamp did absolutely nothing except help keep the waterer and eggs thawed. I gave up keeping the chickens warm, brought the sensitive bantams inside, and pointed the bulb at the nest box to collect a few not too badly frozen eggs. Then during the really cold nights I pointed it at the heated bucket because even my heated bucket buried down in to the bedding to insulate it further was freezing near solid. I was hanging my light from the metal braces on the walls of the coop with rock climbing slings only feet above eggs or water to keep things from freezing in those temps. I do not see anything but a fully insulated coop with a major heater getting the temperature anywhere near 32F. If you stay above 0F I'll be impressed.

If you don't want to haul water or you want eggs that are still liquid concentrate on those things. You will still likely need more power. Either solar or an extension cord. I can run a heat lamp and heated bucket off (2) 150' 16 gauge outdoor extensions cords without tripping the surge protector. I just can't run the space heater off that. Some day I'd like to run actual insulated cable to my coop so I have all the electricity I want but it's not happening this year either.

 

[gymbeau]

As a (former) avid RVer, and one that is not a fan of generators, I
learned a few things about heat and batteries. First, you will need
true deep cycle batteries, not the dual purpose ones for the bass boat.
I had two 6v golf cart batteries wired to create one huge 12v battery.
Even with that much reserve amp/hours creating heat with an electric heater was not an option. But, I could run the lp heater for 3 days or more.

Is it possible to find a small RV heater? They will operate down to
10.5 volts before requiring a re-charge of the batteries.
Basically you would need batteries, RV heater/thermostat, lp tank
from an old BBQ grill, and some wiring and you would be ready to go.

One other consideration with batteries, the amp/hour rating is based
on 80 degrees, get below freezing and you loose some.

 

[spottedtail]

I live in MN where it's as cold as WI.
We've never used heat lamps or any such devices. It's not necessary or helpful.
Just do the following 3 things instead:

1 - Plug in a waterer to keep water unfrozen.
2 - Provide a tight double wall to prevent drafts. No insulation between the walls is perfectly fine.
3 - Last, but not least, air movement (ventilation) up high is must. Then you are all set for the winter...Easy!

I personally think artificial heat is harmful to adult chickens.
It actually ruins their natural hardiness to cold temps.
Let's say the heat goes out for whatever reason....and the chickens instantly face temps they haven't gotten used to!
Bad scenario there!

Good luck...
spot

 

[mamaKate]

Quote:
I like your waterer plan but don't understand how to put a light bulb IN the water (without making fried chicken). Please explain.

 

[rebelcowboysnb]

Low voltage direct current like what comes out of a battery is safe. Every time you back a boat trailer in the water you sink the tail lights under water. Filling the light socket with silicone or a edible grease might help keep corrosion down.

High voltage alternating current (house power) is very dangerous around water.

 

[dirtybug]

In areas where night time temps are more of a concern than day temps a cheap 12v photo sensor would act as a timer of sorts and keep energy use to a minimum which is very important to solar/battery systems.

 

[geosheets]

Quote:
Boat trailer lights are in a sealed housing... the water does not come into contact with the bulb. Submerging a bulb into a water dish does not seem very practical. Unless you are using distilled water, it will conduct electricity making the water a load on the battery as well... not to mention robbing some of the electric flow through the bulb. A hot light bulb will shatter if it comes into contact with water so you will have to ensure the bulb is completely cooled off before refilling. Utilizing 12v batteries for heat just doesn't seem like a good idea unless you have a rather large battery bank. If the batteries are drained, they will freeze and be damaged. If you try to recharge a frozen battery, it will explode. Don't assume a 12v battery is a safe power source, remember, they give off hydrogen gas and should be treated with respect.