ill chicken please help

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by lily12, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. lily12

    lily12 In the Brooder

    Jan 27, 2013
    one of my girls resently hasent been herself.frist i noticed she started sleeping alot and she stands all hunchted up when the others are wondering round the garden.she has also lost weight and doesnt seem to have much of an aptite which is very unusal for her as she normally eats lods.she also seems to be weaker from lack of food i guess.her poos also seem to be very runny.

    please help as one of my other girls has recently died and i dont want to lose her too.

  2. crazycluck86

    crazycluck86 Chirping

    Mar 8, 2013
    Hi, have you wormed them recently? I had this with my silkie cockerel.He didn't really do anything, just sat there as if he was nodding off to sleep all day! He was also very thin when we got him, but since worming him he has slowly picked up and is gaining weight. We found dead worms in his pop...gross!
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2013
  3. dawg53

    dawg53 Humble Premium Member 9 Years

    Nov 27, 2008
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Worm all your birds with either valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer or safeguard liquid goat wormer, 1/2cc given orally undiluted to each bird. Repeat again in 10 days. There's a 14 day withdrawal after last dosing with either product. Give the eggs to your dogs.
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2013
  4. lily12

    lily12 In the Brooder

    Jan 27, 2013
    No we have never had them wormed but she is a ex-battery hen and I don't know if they would of done it.

  5. cafarmgirl

    cafarmgirl Crowing

    X2. Also, how long have you had her? An ex battery hen who is newly exposed to soil other chickens have been on is also susceptible to cocci in her new environment.
  6. lily12

    lily12 In the Brooder

    Jan 27, 2013
    We have had them about 6 months.
  7. cafarmgirl

    cafarmgirl Crowing

    I think I'd start with deworming them all and go from there. She may have something else going on, it can be really hard to diagnose them sometimes, but ridding them of parasites is a good place to start.

  8. lily12

    lily12 In the Brooder

    Jan 27, 2013
    she seems better today as she is moving around the garden more and hasent been sleeping much. she wouldnt eat the pellets whole but when i chrushed them she eat some and drank some water.
  9. lily12

    lily12 In the Brooder

    Jan 27, 2013
    help! shes still not eating or moving around much although this morning after a little sleep she did seem to move around a bit.i suspect its somee sort of congestion.
    does anyone have any suggestions on treatment or other suggestions on what it could be.


  10. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member Project Manager 6 Years

    Jun 24, 2012
    My Coop
    This is a cut and paste from another post of mine

    When mine get sick, this is what I do:

    • Thorough exam which includes inserting a gloved, lubed finger into the cloaca to check for an egg, check for cuts, bruising lumps etc.
    • Dust for mites/lice with poultry dust even if I cannot see any. DE does not work.
    • Weigh on digital kitchen scale (see avatar), record weight and weigh daily. any weight loss is bad.
    • Place bird in a warm, quiet place on towel with food and water that it can't drown in.
    • De-worm with Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste 50mg/kg by mouth and repeat in 10 days. Warning - Safeguard/Panacur (fenbendazle should not be used during a molt)
    • Once warm, if not drinking, and crop is empty, hydrate with warmed Pedialyte or lactated ringers with a feeding tube - 30ml/kg every 6-8 hours.
    • If not eating after 24 hours and crop is empty, tube feed baby bird food mixed with Pedialyte
    • Inspect poop.
    • If I suspect a stuck egg, treat for egg binding.
    • If I suspect a bacterial infection, treat with antibiotics.

    Supportive Care
    Sick birds are often hypothermic and should be placed
    in heated (brooder-type) enclosures

    b (Fig 7.7) in a quiet
    environment (see Chapter 1, Clinical Practice). A temperature
    of 85° F (29° C) with 70% humidity is desirable
    for most sick birds. If brooders are not equipped with a
    humidity source, placing a small dish of water in the
    enclosure will often supply adequate humidity. A moist
    towel that is heated and placed on the bottom of a cage
    or incubator rapidly humidifies the environment, as indicated
    by the fogging of the acrylic cage front.

    Oral Administration
    Oral administration is the ideal method of giving fluids.
    This method is more commonly used in mildly dehydrated
    birds or in conjunction with subcutaneous (SC)
    or intravenous (IV) therapy. Oral rehydration (30 ml/kg
    PO q 6-8 h) also may be used in larger birds (eg, waterfowl)
    that are difficult to restrain for parenteral fluid


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