On the worming, the usually most prevalent worms are roundworms. Since your hens have likely never been wormed, always start with Wazine. It will paralyze and expel the roundworm adults and a few other adults. It's your safest bet for a first worming.
I always use Wazine first (or only*) if ANY of the following apply:
- The bird or a bird in the flock has shed a worm
- The bird hasn't been wormed with a broad spectrum wormer** in over six months
- The bird is under four months of age*
- The bird has diarrhea or is underweight
- The bird has an unknown worming history
Wazine, by its design, is meant to be repeated every few weeks because it only kills adult rounds (which is still good). However I like to end the cycle for a while and use a more broad spectrum wormer 2-4 weeks after the wazine. Some examples are: *fenbendazole (safeguard paste for horses/cattle or Safeguard liquid for goats - all are 10%), 5% ivermectin pour on for cattle (used on the skin, 1-6 drops pm for dosage), levamisole, albendazole, etc. Use only one of the broad-spectrum wormers.
Of the above, fenbendazole and ivermectin are my two favorites. They both kill larvae and adults of roundworms and a number of other parasites. Ivermectin will also kill larvae that aren't in the digestive tract, while fenbendazole may have some effect on tapeworms (according to MSU) so it's good to rotate them.
The reason for my Wazine-rules are that birds may have an unknown parasite load*** and worming them with the kill-all wormer first may cause them undo schock, blockage as all the dying worms (including those killed in the lungs or airways) are then considered a 'foreign protein', or blockage as all the worms in the digestive tract are expelled through the vent or digestive tract.
After my initial worming with Wazine 17 (piperazine 17% is what the drug actually is) and the follow-up broad spectrum, then I worm twice annually with the broad spectrum whether or not I see worms.
Looking in the droppings for worms is a lost cause as worms need to survive by staying IN the bird. You won't often see then outside of the bird (except the rice-like or flat worm tapeworms) so using visual examination of the feces for the actual worms is ineffective. Either have a "fecal egg count" done twice annually, or worm.
In between wormings, I also advocate using more natural methods to hopefully help control worm populations in the environment. These methods do not expel the worms, but can be seen as a help-mate in reducing numbers annually. DE (food grade only), VermX, cayenne powder, herbals, etc. Again these do not treat an infestation - but they can help hopefully prevent the kind of numbers that cause one.
Another important factor is dryness of environment. The more dry the bedding/grounds, the less likely that bacteria and the ova or parasites themselves can exist there. That's why I like the dried and compressed horse-stall shavings (not chips) for coops, and sand (rather than stripped soil) for bedding. The dryness will go a long way in helping you with worm loads.
Also, not treating your birds to earthworms or beetles helps as well. Let them find their own. If you like to feed live bugs, try mealyworms that are cultivated for bait or reptiles. They're less likely to be intermediate carriers of parasites.
SUMMARY AND FOLLOWUP:
So in a summary, my advice for the immediate would be Wazine 17 (piperazine 17%) used one day in the water as the sole source of water. Use yogurt that day for digestive tract stress. It's beneficial to do a yogurt/molasses/applesauce flush any time you worm to help flush out the paralyzed or dying worms. (1/8th teaspoon molasses, 1 jar of babyfood applesauce, 3 tablespoons of yogurt, and some cooked oatmeal - mix - serves four hens).
Re-worm in 4-6 weeks with fenbendazole (safeGuard - ask for directions) or 5% ivermectin cattle pour-on (again ask for directions)
Still trying to pen the only avian vet down about results and necropsy stuff. Can you say arduous task? Between my oldest starting 1st grade and my 3rd have a vomit flu, geesh.
