Ok was thinking that but didn't know if that would actually work or if that was just a kind of hop in hop out cool yourself kinda thing. Lol I'm probably getting way in over my head. But let me think about it over weekend and might be looking for me some ducks... Gota do my research
[COLOR=000000]A place to Hatch, Learn, Chat,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]& Meet new Friends![/COLOR]
When I came back to BYC after an illness I wasnt quite sure where to go, I wasnt sure where all my friends were hanging out or even where to look for everyone! It was then I decided to start the Halloween hatchalong. It was a very fun time! I found quite a few of my friends, but certainly not all of them! As the Halloween HAL closed I wanted a place for everyone to go to continue to get the support they need and for the friends to keep gathering. FEEL FREE to Invite anyone you wish, even if they just want to learn about incubation chat and support each other.
Percent Fertility is the percentage of fertile eggs of all eggs set. % Fertility = # of fertile eggs # of total eggs set Percent Hatchability is the percentage of fertile eggs which actually hatched out as live young. % Hatchability = # of eggs which hatch out # of fertile eggs http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2902/2902-1090/2902-1090_pdf.pdf
[COLOR=000000]Choosing an incubator[/COLOR]
Many different styles of incubators are available, most common are Styrofoam types found at most feed stores. These incubators hold more eggs and are usually less expensive, but they require more involvement in the hatching process. Egg turners are usually optional that can be added for convenience. There are also some great “hands free” incubators, commercial incubators as well as Simple Inexpensive Homemade Incubators. We make “Coolerbators” they work 100% better than our store bought incubator because it has less than .5 degree variance and we have very successful hatches in it!
[COLOR=000000]HELP How do I decide on an incubator?[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Still air or forced air incubator?[/COLOR] There are 2 main types of incubator. Still air and forced air. The difference is simply a fan. In forced air incubators, a fan circulates the air around the incubator which keeps the temperature constant in all parts of the incubator. The temperature can be measured anywhere within the airflow. In a still air incubator, there is no fan, the heat stratifies (forms layers) inside the incubator so the temperature is different between the top and bottom of the incubator.
IMPORTANCE OF FANS and HOW TO ADD ONE!post #58100
[COLOR=008080]Poultry Keeper Choosing the Right Incubator[/COLOR]
IMPORTANCE OF FANS and HOW TO ADD ONE!post #58100
[COLOR=008080]6" 240 cfm DUCT FAN for cabinets[/COLOR] all sizesclick HERE THERMOSTATS/TEMP CONTROLLERS: *Also see Incubator Accessories and Parts Above
Temperature Controller Thermostat Control Switch Unit 1 Relay Output with SensorCLICK HERE
STC-1000 Digital Temp.Controller w/Sensor AC110V Install/Wiring Diagramspost #63789
HOW TO SEAL a BATORClick HERE HOW Many VENT HOLES do I NEED?post #24735 DIY WAFER thermostat with ASSEMBLYClick HERE
[COLOR=008080]Aquarium Cheap light to see in Bators[/COLOR] post #68412 DIY Turners & Egg Trays & Hatching Baskets Mics
Locate your incubator in a room in which temperature is 70 degrees, free from drafts,
away from windows and direct sunlight.
[COLOR=008080]Did you know that the Incubating practice originated more than 2,500 years ago in Egypt and China. Methods of incubation were kept secret for a long time. In Europe attempts to use incubation are known from the 14th century. Owing to the imperfection of incubation apparatus (casks submerged in rotted manure, bakers’ ovens, and so on) and inadequate study of the conditions of incubation, it did not become common. Only since the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, with the invention of better incubators, has incubation become widely used in Europe and the USA; since the middle of the 20th century it has been the principal method of propagating poultry.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Collection, WASHING & Storage of Eggs[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Collection, Washing & Storage of Eggs[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Choose eggs that are of good size, not abnormally big or small. Do NOT set dirty, cracked, or porous eggs. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Clinical studies at the University of Arkansas have shown that if your going to set a dirty egg, set the dirty egg, [COLOR=FF0000]DO NOT SAND, WASH OR WIPE dirty eggs as hatchability decreases with these practices![/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=808080]Cuticula is the thin membrane that covers the whole eggshell that is made from the sticky fluid when laid which covers it and quickly dissolves due to carbondioxyde activity. [/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=808080]This membrane can be penetrated by gasses but functions as a kind defensive mechanism to prevent the entry of bacteria.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=000000] The washing and rubbing action also serves to force diseaseorganisms through the pores of the shell. [/COLOR]Place the eggs upright in an egg carton with the FAT, air cell end of the egg UP! Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for storage. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 55-65 degrees. Rotate your eggs a 3 times a day to keep the embryo from sticking. An easy way to turn all of the eggs at once is to place a thick book under one end of the carton, and later remove the book and put it under the other end of the carton, 3 times a day. Before adding eggs to the incubator always WARM eggs UP slowly to room temperature. IF THE EGGS ARE COLD Condensation can cause bacterial growth on the eggs! You can collect eggs up until 10 days or so, but after the 7[SUP]th[/SUP] day lower hatch rates may result. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Stored eggs take longer to hatch (about one hour per day of storage).[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs![/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. For more information on storing eggs refer to Recommendations for hatching egg handling and storage[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]
[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]If you MUST store longer please see this info HERE:[/COLOR]
When eggs were stored in the [COLOR=FF0000]small-end-up position for 2 to 4 weeks, it was, not beneficial to turn them daily as had been previously demonstrated to be advantageous for eggs stored small-end-down.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]PLASTIC BAG EGG STORAGE!!![/COLOR] [COLOR=626262] [COLOR=005CB1]http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=618820[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=626262]Temporary heating before incubation and enclosing eggs in plastic bags during storage improves hatchability, especially when storage is prolonged. A high humidity during storage also improves hatchability, probably due to a reduction in water loss. The changes in albumen pH during storage are discussed in so far as they provide a possible explanation for relationships between environmental conditions during storage and hatching results.[/COLOR]
TIPS:
Use your turners during storage!
SANITIZING/WASHING EGGS
Most commercial hatcheries sanitize their eggs. There are differences of opinions about how to sanitize eggs, if you feel they need to be. Some experts advocate washing and even lightly scrubbing eggs with soft brushes. Others feel that the most that should be done is dipping for a few seconds. Because of the varying opinions on sanitizing eggs, the following is an opinion of Brower and not necessarily a hard and fast recommendation. Accomplish sanitizing by dipping eggs in solution containing disinfectant that is just strong enough to kill bacteria and viruses. However, the disinfectant should not be so strong as to damage the embryos.
Mix the sanitizing solution according to the manufacturers' instruction. A recommended cleaning solution is Tex-Trol. TexTrol may be available at a local retail outlet. For the name of a retailer search for it online. If using Tex-Trol, mix one half ounce of concentrated disinfectant to one gallon of warm water. You can also use 1 ounce of Clorox to 2 gallons of water. The water should be 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (37° to 44°C). If the egg is warmer than the solution, contamination can be pulled through the pores of the egg before the agent has a chance to neutralize any pathogens.. Submerge the eggs for one to three minutes with dirtier eggs left in solution longer than ones that essentially look clean. Allow the eggs to air dry at room temperature and store as described above--or set in your incubator. A soft paper tissue can be used to dry the eggs but don’t rub the egg with a tissue or any material. Eggs have a natural protective cuticle that helps retard contamination. Rubbing removes the cuticle and can actually drive pathogens through the shell.
Sanitizing solution of chlorine (bleach) 6% hypochlorite and water at a concentration of 100 ppm (parts per million) = To make a100 ppm chlorine solution, combine 2 ml. (1/2 tsp.) of bleach with one quart of water.
The Cuticle removal
in hatching eggs as a means to reduce weight loss: Has actually been found to increase embryo weight during incubation and has direct relationship between rate of egg water loss, embryonic metabolism, and growth during incubation. But that warning of contamination is there if you dont follow cleaning procedures correctly. Chlorine treated eggs were not altered either. So with all that it is found that cuticle removal can be an effective method for increasing growth and egg weight loss.
'Sweating' of eggs refers to the phenomenon of condensed water sitting on the egg shell surface. This occurs when cold eggs are suddenly exposed to a higher environmental temperature. The warm air with a certain moisture content cools down rapidly directly around the colder eggs. Since cold air contains less water than warm air, relative humidity will increase until the air is saturated. And at that moment, condensation will take place on the cool egg surface.
[COLOR=FF0000]Prior to EGG placement in the incubator,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]place the eggs at a room temperature for several hours.[/COLOR]
Accurate and detailed records are very important in incubation.
In addition to records of individual eggs it is important to keep records of the temperature and the humidity, so that trends in temperature and humidity may be detected early and can be corrected for next hatch.
[COLOR=333333]Here is a spreadsheet for the intense OCD hatcher there is a sample page and a workbook page[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333] ozexpatbychatchtemplate.xlsx 20k .xlsx file[/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]INCUBATION RECORDS, SOFTWARE/APPS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]FIVE Apps To Make You A Better Chicken Keeper ARTICLE CLICK HERE[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]FREE Homesteading, Farm & Animal Recording Keeping Forms [/COLOR] https://homesteadapps.com/app/free/forms/Monthly Poultry Record Sheet Form record daily feed rations, bedding, eggs, and other information for poultry [COLOR=000000]Spreadsheets/online places[/COLOR]
The following table lists incubation requirements for various species of fowl.
[TR]
Species
Incub. Period (days)
Temp (F.)¹
Do not turn after
[/TR] [TR] [TD]
Chicken
[/TD] [TD]
21
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
18th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Turkey
[/TD] [TD]
28
[/TD] [TD]
99
[/TD] [TD]
25th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Duck
[/TD] [TD]
28
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
25th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Muscovy Duck
[/TD] [TD]
35-37
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
31st day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Goose
[/TD] [TD]
28-34
[/TD] [TD]
99
[/TD] [TD]
25th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Guinea Fowl
[/TD] [TD]
26-28
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
25th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Pheasant
[/TD] [TD]
23-28
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
21st day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Peafowl
[/TD] [TD]
28-30
[/TD] [TD]
99
[/TD] [TD]
25th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Bobwhite Quail
[/TD] [TD]
23-24
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
20th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Coturnix Quail
[/TD] [TD]
17
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
15th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Chukar
[/TD] [TD]
23-24
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
20th day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Grouse
[/TD] [TD]
25
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
22nd day
[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]
Pigeon
[/TD] [TD]
17
[/TD] [TD]
100
[/TD] [TD]
15th day
[/TD] [/TR]
¹ Measured at degrees F. in a forced-air incubator. For still-air incubators, add 2-3 degrees F. ² Measured as degrees F. using a wet-bulb thermometer. Use chart to convert to relative humidity.
Ventilation is VERY important during the incubation process.
While the embryo is developing, oxygen enters the egg through the shell and carbon dioxide escapes. Oxygen requirements will increases during development and during hatching. Unobstructed ventilation holes, both above and below the eggs, are essential for proper air exchange.[COLOR=FF0000]REMOVE RED VENT PLUGS, TOO MANY PEOPLE FORGET TO REMOVE THEM AT DAY 10! [/COLOR] [COLOR=003366]NOTE: When Lockdown occurs, vent openings are frequently restricted in an attempt to boost incubator humidity. Instead of helping the chick hatch, the chick is suffocated from lack of oxygen. Never decrease ventilation openings at hatching in an attempt to increase humidity. Increase humidity by other methods. If any vent adjustments are made, they should be opened more. Try adding a dampened sponge or towel to help boost humidity during lockdown.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]VENTILATION (OXYGEN)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Hatching at High Altitudes[/COLOR] post #37908O2 deprivation to day 10 of incubation followed by regular oxygen concentrations leads to stronger chicks post #33815[COLOR=FF0000]NEVER USE VENT holes as a means to Control HUMIDITY especially during HATCH DAYS![/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]TEMPERATURE[/COLOR]
THERMOMETERS, HYGROMETERS & CALIBRATION
Celsius to Fahrenheit (ºC to ºF) conversion calculatorclick HERE [COLOR=FF0000]Thermo/hygro suggestions [/COLOR] post #13998
HAVE A PLAN IN CASE YOU LOOSE ELECTRIC ITS THE SEASON!seepost #522
[COLOR=FF0000]HUMIDITY[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]The Air Bubble in the Egg[/COLOR]
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide. and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from this water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. [COLOR=FF0000]Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.[/COLOR] There are quite a few opinions on Humidity, but it is no set number.
Humidity is [COLOR=FF0000]NOT A SET NUMBER, you need it YES![/COLOR]
However, you use it as a tool to "adjust" egg weight loss during incubation. [COLOR=FF0000]We candle on days 7,10,14,18 To WATCH WEIGHT LOSS IN EVERY EGG! [COLOR=FF0000] An EGG MUST[/COLOR] lose approximately 13-14% of its weight[/COLOR] during the incubation process. THIS IS YOUR GOAL!! You can monitor this by marking Air cells and also by weighing. Please refer to CANDLING section of this Article for more Air Cell info.
Size of air cell on day 7, 14, and 18 of incubation
[COLOR=FF0000]WHY to MEASURE WEIGHT LOSS IN EGGS, [/COLOR]
MEASURING PROCEDURES (HOW TO), HOW TO CALCULATE, and HOW to interpret RESULTS
[COLOR=005CB1]http://www.aviagen.com/assets/Tech_Center/BB_Resources_Tools/AA_How_Tos/AAHowto1WaterLossEN13.pdf[/COLOR]
I choose the easier method, keeping a close eye on air cell growth during incubation. You begin by ONLY adding a small amount of water and keep Humidity between 20%-30% and adjusting as you weigh or candle depending on moisture loss. IN SOME AREAS OF THE COUNTRY YOU MAY NOT NEED TO ADD ANY WATER! USE IT AS A TOOL FOR THE CORRECT WEIGHT LOSS IN THE EGG! So if your air cells look too large at each candle period you must add some humidity, too small air cell lower it, and if your weighing you adjust as needed. UNTIL DAY 18 LOCKDOWN,
then stop turning and raise humidity to 65-70%
UNDERSTANDING HUMIDITY
Views of Day 18 Candle.....
[COLOR=FF0000]How Does a Hygrometer Work? [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000080]NOTES: It’s a good idea to keep the incubator plugged into a surge protector. Use distilled water in your incubator to help prevent bacteria growth. Omphalitis, Mushy Chick Disease and Yolk Sack Infection may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. Brinsea sells a disinfectant, formulated to be used for cleaning eggs, incubators, safe and effective against yeasts, fungi, viruses and bacteria which can cause fatal damage to the growing embryo. Pennies can be added to water wells. Copper helps to destroy the cell walls of bacteria, thus keeping bacteria out of the incubator. Pennies before 1982 have more copper content and pure copper kills 99.9% of bacteria.[/COLOR]
A few TIPS & TRICKS!
Below image is a Simple waterer/suctioner out of aquarium tubing placed through side of incubator and into water wells. Use a Kids medicine syringe to add/suck water without opening or disturbing eggs.
In the image below are the different sized cups I use the first 18 days of incubation INSTEAD of using the wells in the bottom of the incubator. I had a hard time getting humidity correct, so I started using different size containers and caps for water holding, I could easily remove & replace as necessary. It WORKS WELL and I can keep them clean and sanitized better and not disturb my eggs! I will remove these cups on day 18 so the chicks don’t drown in them
and use the lower wells at lockdown at day 18.
2" funnel & we shoved it into a small piece of 1/4" tubing, a cleat on the inside of the unit (a wide-crown staple or cable staple would work also) to hold the tubing in place.
This way you can add water to the middle of the bator without missing the water troughs and without opening the unit. see below (Thanks tlpounds)
REMEMBER~
Surface area of water will increase humidity more so than depth!
If you need a safe boost at lockdown just add a dampened sponge or rag.
A "ShamWoW" is great as a wick and can hang from the sides or across top of incubator.
[COLOR=FF0000]Setting Eggs & Turning[/COLOR]
It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!
It is likewise important to SANITIZE your incubator AND equipment before AND after use!
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs.
[COLOR=FF0000]WHY IS EGG TURNING IMPORTANT EVEN WITH SHIPPED EGGS?[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000][COLOR=000000]REMINDER to see the Shipped eggs section of the article and to treat every shipped egg differently as its air cell is presented to you![/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Failure to turn eggs during incubation CLEARLY[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]reduces hatchability in every scholarly study and every clinical trial. [/COLOR]
We were able to demonstrate that it is critical to turn eggs for at least the first three days of incubation and better for the first seven. READ MORE HERE and HERE
Only add room temperature eggs to your incubator to prevent SWEATING. Sweating/Condensation weakens the egg's natural defense mechanisms, providing an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria and penetrated through the shell pores and kill the embryo. Eggs can be laid on their sides or placed in turning tray with pointed end down/big air cell end up. For shipped eggs, please refer to [COLOR=FF0000]SHIPPED EGGS section of this article.[/COLOR]
Mark eggs, using a pencil, with an X on one side and an O on the other. Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day, or odd number of times. [COLOR=000000]Turning by hand they should always be turned an odd amount of times and move them to a different part of the tray to protect them from temperature variation. You basically roll the eggs with your fingers/palm from X to O. It is important to NOT ROLL the eggs in the same direction every time. Improper rolling can cause the chalazae that holds the yolk in place to tear.[/COLOR] Turning the egg prevents the embryo from touching and attaching to the membrane inside the egg. The most convenient way to turn eggs is to purchase an egg turner. [COLOR=FF0000]Take extra precautions [COLOR=000000]when turning eggs during the first week of incubation. The developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that rupture easily when severely jarred or shaken, thus killing the embryo. [/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]When adding Eggs the temperature will immediately drop. DO NOT ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT, or risk accidentally cooking them. Wait 2/4 hours and if the temperature is still low, make a small adjustment, as small as you can. (Note: Small adjustments on the manual Styrofoam incubators make BIG changes!)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]REMINDER THAT YOU MAY BE ENTITLED TO REIMBURSEMENT[/COLOR]
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. [COLOR=FF0000]Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]MARKING and OBSERVING[/COLOR] the size of the air cell is a way of checking for correct weight loss of the egg and is commonly used. However, this can be inaccurate due to the different, types, shapes, and ages of eggs. The protrusion of the embryo into the air cell also may effect observations. Again, it is the most common method for non-commercial hatchers. With experience you can adjust your humidity as needed by visual inspection of air cells. However, Weighing is the MOST accurate. [COLOR=000000]If the incubation humidity is too low (very dry conditions), the air sac will be larger than normal and the humidity in the incubator should be increased to reduce the rate of water loss. If the air space is smaller than normal then the opposite applies.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Track the air sac with pencil tracings when you candle,[/COLOR]
Chicken eggs need to lose 13% moisture over 21 days, NOT day 18 lockdown. Weigh all the eggs on the first day, before you put them in the incubator and weigh again days 10, 14 & 18. [COLOR=000000]Several formulas can be used to determine the rate of weight loss or overall per cent weight loss and to correct the humidity if the values are off.[/COLOR] For accuracy, a digital scale should be used which can weigh in grams. Don't forget to subtract the weight of the container holding the eggs from the total weight when calculating the average egg weight. If you use a rack to incubate your eggs it is best to weigh the entire rack instead of each egg to get an average. If you are incubating [COLOR=FF0000]SHIPPED eggs upright in a carton you will also weigh the entire carton so that the eggs are not disturbed.[/COLOR]
Some Explainations from cochins1088 on weighing Eggs!
[COLOR=333333][COLOR=000000]Eggs should lose approximately 11% - 12% of their mass at 18[SUP]th[/SUP] day of incubation. To monitor mass loss, a person must keep track of an egg’s weight. Optimally eggs should be weighed right after they’re laid, but this isn’t always possible. When eggs are shipped, weigh them as you remove them from the package. Keep in mind that the eggs will lose some of their mass during storage. According to Aviagen, eggs lose about 0.5% of their[/COLOR] masses per week in storage.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]How to Calculate Mass Loss[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]First subtract the current weight of an egg from the original weight of the egg. This number will give you the weight loss. Then take the weight loss and divide it by the original weight of the egg. This will give you the fraction of weight that was loss. Lastly, multiply the fraction of weigh loss by 100. This will give you the percent of mass loss. [/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For example:[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Original weight (50 g) - Current weight (45 g) = Weight lost (5 g)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Weight lost (5 g) divided by Original weight (50 g) = Fraction of weight lost (0.1)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Fraction of weight lost (0.1) multiplied by 100 = Percent of weight lost (10%)[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For those of you who incubate large numbers of eggs, you can weigh the trays to find the average mass of each egg.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]For example:[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]If a tray weigh of eggs initially weighs 700 grams and the empty tray weighs 200 grams, than the eggs must initially weigh 500 grams. If there are 10 eggs in the tray, then each egg weighs approximately 50 grams.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]Let’s say that 2 eggs are removed because they were infertile.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]After 18 days, your tray weighs 560 grams. If you subtract the weight of the tray (200 grams), than the eggs must weigh 360 grams. There are 8 eggs in the tray, so each egg weighs approximately 45 grams.[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]With this example, the eggs lost 10% of their mass by day 18.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000080]Note: Kitchen scales work great. The WeighMax Pocket Mini CD Digital Scale below works great if you weigh individual eggs. I pasted an egg carton cup firmly to hold the eggs. Be extremely careful not to tip your scale and crack your eggs![/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 1[/COLOR]
Always wash hands before handling eggs.
The shell of an egg is thin and opaque when held near a bright light. The easiest type of egg to candle is the white shelled egg and some of the hardest eggs to candle are dark brown eggs, like the Maran eggs pictured below.
You could try two or more flashlights to see into them!
[COLOR=FF0000]Candle days are 1, 7, 14 & 18[SUP]th[/SUP] day[/COLOR]
Turn on your Candler and shut off the lights in the room so it is dark, evenings are best. Hold the flashlight/Candler like the image below and set the egg air cell/fat end down on your hand. This will prevent any light leakage from the flashlight. Your hand protects the egg from the hard surface of the light and helps more of the light to go through the egg.
[COLOR=FF6600]CAUTION: Be very careful when you handle the egg[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF6600]so you don't accidentally crack it or DROP it![/COLOR]
Slowly & gently rotate the egg until you can see inside the egg. On Day 1 candling you will mark air cells and check for cracked or porous eggs. Lightly mark the air cell with a pencil. Candle quickly if the light gets hot, you will kill the embryo. On Day 1 candle you will NOT see much inside the egg but you may have a glimpse of yolk moving as you gently rotate lightly colored eggs.
[COLOR=222222]Chicken Embryo Development, views from the Inside AND Out. *Graphic Photos**[/COLOR]
TINY Sappy spots possibly due to Rough Shipment of EGGS
Day 11 candle funky air cells from shipped eggs.
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs
Saddle Shaped Air cell, where it dips on two sides
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs
Note the pictures below on day 10
The two on the right have “scrambled” contents from shipping
[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 7[/COLOR]
When you Candle on day 7 there should be some light blood vessels surrounding it and you may see the embryo move. See above and below video. My favorite time to candle! Eggs that are clear should be re-candled at 10 days before tossing. If your not sure and it doesn’t smell leave it! If your egg is colored or a brown egg, it is harder to see through the shell, you may want to wait a few days and try again. Or find a better candler. You can see the large round yolk move inside the egg, this is NOT the embryo at day 7! Its just the yolk!
It IS ALIVE!!!! Video below day 7 Candle
[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 14[/COLOR]
It will begin to look pretty dark in there! Look for movement.
You should again see some good veining.
THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 14!
[COLOR=FF0000]CANDLE EGGS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=3366FF]DAY 18 & LOCKDOWN![/COLOR]
Candle day 18 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs.It will look pretty dark and FULL in there! You may or may not see movement on this candle.Its ok if not, don’t panic! The chick may easily be resting!See how that air cell is beginning to dip more to one side and if you lay the egg down it will roll into the hatching position. I set my eggs with lowest dip in the aircell up. This position for hatching is good so the chick is able to turn into position and I can easily see my pips too! Day 18 laying horizontal for actual hatching helps a chick hatch 1-2 hours earlier. I lay my eggs down LOWEST DIP of the AIRCELL UP! This is the normal and most likely hatching position and the chick will break through or Internally pip and externally pip in that probable area. See the image below with the x, x being lowest dip in air cell and probably pip area/s.
[COLOR=FF0000]LOCKDOWN![/COLOR]
Stop turning, Remove Turner and Raise Humidity to 65% - 70%
depending on what your air cells may still need
[COLOR=008080]NOTE: It is now known that the different embryos communicate with each other by a series of clicking sounds,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]the rate of clicking being the important feature. Ensuring the eggs on the hatching trays are in contact with each other facilitates[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]the synchronization of hatching where the eggs are incubated in a modern machine. This assists in reducing the time between when the first and last chicks hatch.[/COLOR]
After Day 18 candle you will “LOCK DOWN” your eggs. Lower the temperature see suggest temps below and increase the humidity the last three days. STOP turning and the incubator stays closed, for the next three days while the chicks hatch! If you’re having a hard time with humidity it is OK to open quickly to boost, add warm water or increase the size of the pan or add a wet sponge.[COLOR=FF0000]NEVER ADJUST HUMIDITY BY cutting back airflow.[/COLOR]VENTILATION is EXTREMELY important at this stage!
Researchers have found that lowering temperatures will prolong incubation,
HOWEVER it is favourable to do so at the end of incubation.
[COLOR=FF0000]Day 19 & 20 Temp Min 98.0 Max 98.5[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Day 21 Temp Min 97 Max 98.0[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]on what that chick is doing in that egg at this time![/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Development of motor patterns in avian embryos:[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]hatching behavior http://www.int-ornith-union.org/files/proceedings/durban/Symposium/S46/S46.1.htm[/COLOR]
A GOOD IDEA FOR SOME STYROFOAM INCUBATORS
COVER THE BOTTOM WIRE GRATE with A SMALLER TYPE OF SCREENING
CHICKS can get broken legs in these large sized wire grates
EXAMPLES Window SCREEN, or DOLLAR store rubber Shelf mat with the holes
see below: [COLOR=000080]Note: foam grip drawer mat on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This ALSO protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]VIDEO : Early day 19 INTERNAL PIP[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333](shipped initially loose air cell, set after 12 hours and turned upright in the cabinet cooler incubator right from set)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Silky embryo in position for hatch and with internal pip (NOTE: NO EXTERNAL YET!) [/COLOR]
[COLOR=000080]Note: foam grip drawer mat on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This ALSO protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]PREPARE BROODER:[/COLOR]
Prepare everything you need for them once they have hatched.
Now is the time to do final checks on brooder, heat lamp and feed.
Eggs can rock for several days before hatcing, but how exciting it is!
[COLOR=FF0000]Understanding The Hatching Process[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Between the 15th and 16th days, the chick orients itself so that its head is near the air cell at the large end of the egg. Not long before the chick is ready to attempt to make its way out of the shell its neck acquires a double bend so that its beak is under its right wing and pointed toward the air cell.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]21 DAYS is just a baseline for hatching eggs.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Many chicks can take 23 - 25 days![/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Some pip internally and fully hatch in hours while others will be 24 hours or more.[/COLOR]
Egg movement! Eggs can “Rock n Roll” days before they are due to hatch!
The initiation of hatch occurs partially from the increased carbon dioxide level in the egg. This process causes the embryo to begin twitching it's muscles allowing the inner shell membrane to be punctured by the egg tooth. The chick then begins breathing the air in the air cell. Using its egg tooth, it pecks at the shell thousands of times and after a few hours the chick pips a small hole through the shell and begins to breathe air directly from the outside. [COLOR=FF0000]After the chick has made a hole in the shell, it stops pipping for 8+ hours sometimes up to 24 hours and rests.[/COLOR] During this time, it is acclimating its lungs.
[COLOR=333333]In regards to opening and closing the bator to remove already hatch chicks; It is important to remember that chicks can go [COLOR=FF0000]3 days[/COLOR] [COLOR=333333]without food/water. It is better to wait for the remaining chicks to hatch to insure reducing the impact to unhatched pipping eggs.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]But my new chick is running around in the bator knocking eggs around![/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]LET THEM GO! DO NOT OPEN THE INCUBATOR! They are fine![/COLOR]
MONDAY 5 PM noticed external pip
[COLOR=B42000][/COLOR]
TUESDAY DAY 20 9AM STILL RESTING,
hole slightly larger but chick is NOT zipping!
[COLOR=005CB1][/COLOR]
2 PM TUES. CHICK IS ALREADY OUT!
missed the last quick zipping!
Silky on the left, two CCL hatched at the same time!
[COLOR=005CB1][/COLOR] ITS IMORTANT TO NOTE: THIS CHICK TOOK WELL OVER 24 hours to hatch! and absolutely normal!
[COLOR=000000]Oh NO![/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]It PIPPED the WRONG END![/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]MALPOSITIONS[/COLOR]
It is common to lose about 1-2% of the chicks due to deformities and malpositions. Deformities occur during embryo development, while malpositions occur the last week of incubation. Malpositioned embryos are unable to pip the eggshell and escape due to improper positioning within the egg. The chicks can have difficulty positioning for pipping, absorbing the yolk sac, or changing from embryo to chick breathing air. The majority of malpositioned embryos that have died in the shell probably resulted from exhaustion and/or lack of oxygen. One GOOD thing to remember is that SOME malpositions are Lethal and some are not! Occasionally, malpositioned chicks will hatch unassisted but the hatch does need to be monitored closely to ensure that the chick is not becoming stressed, or stuck. Often as a result of the position in the shell they have been unable to absorb all of the yolk. Please refer to Navel SECTION BELOW.
[COLOR=333333]Common reasons of Malpositions are:[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Eggs are set with small end up.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Advancing breeder hen age and shell quality problems.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Egg turning frequency and angle are not adequate.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Inadequate % humidity loss of eggs in the setter.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Inadequate air cell development, improper temperature and humidity regulation, and insufficient ventilation in the incubator or hatcher.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Imbalanced feeds, elevated levels of mycotoxins, and vitamin and mineral deficiencies.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=333333]Lower than recommended temperatures in the last stage of incubation.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]She HATCHED! But what's with her butt?[/COLOR]
If there is slight bleeding at the navel use corn starch or a dab of cold water to stop the bleeding. You can also swab the umbilicus area with a 1% solution of Betadine and place the chick back in the bator to dry. If you do see this and the chick is already out of the shell dangling with this, use a clean sterile scissors to cut through them, DO NOT PULL as you can harm the chick’s navel!
[COLOR=FF0000]But only the cords![/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]DO NOT CUT IF THERE IS UNABSORBED YOLK SACK!![/COLOR]
Please see HOW TO TREAT & PREVENT yolk sack infections!!
Yolk, a WONDERFUL Story of a Chick that stopped pipping midway and ended up having a yolk sack rupture and a bunch of other issues! It is well worth a read and "Rock" has all the footage to boot!
DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick Care Tips.html
Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks 2 C. Water 2 TBL. Brown Sugar, honey or molasses 1/2 tsp Salt 1/2 tsp. Baking Soda
Mix until all dry ingredients dissolve & Keep refrigerated
You could also use electrolyte drinks Gatorade or Pedialyte, or
3 drops of POLYVISOL (liquid childrens A-B-D vitamins)
Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand![/COLOR] AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.
Wry neck is a condition in which the baby chicks head or hangs it sideways or tilts backwards, causing it to be off balance and fall over. Sometimes chicks can be weak and fall over but if its tilting of head back is causing toppling its typically wry/crooked neck.
Torticollis is a symptom from different illnesses. Marek's disease, a possible vitamin deficiency in magnesium, vitamin E, thiamine, avian encephalomyelitis or listeriosis, food poisoning/botulism, heavy metal/lead toxicity, Fungal aspergillosis, ear infections, and head injuries with some vulted skull breeds.
Understanding Splayed Legs and incubation distress that easily leads to splayed legs
This condition has been associated with high humidity during incubation, but the results of our research indicate that higher temperature conditions during the last phase of embryo development may have a bigger impact. Splayed legs are also observed when newly hatched chicks are placed on slippery floors.
Just pop in and say hello and what your plans are in the bator!
Experienced Hatchers also needed to help out with the growing demand for help with incubating!
Its not just for shipped eggs! Its awesome, most check daily and are there to help and support!
Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case!
IMPORTANCE OF FANS and HOW TO ADD ONE to your STYRO!post #58100
[COLOR=008080]6" 240 cfm DUCT FAN for cabinets[/COLOR] all sizesclick HERE THERMOSTATS/TEMP CONTROLLERS: *Also see Incubator Accessories and Parts Above
Temperature Controller Thermostat Control Switch Unit 1 Relay Output with SensorCLICK HERE
STC-1000 Digital Temp.Controller w/Sensor AC110V Install/Wiring Diagramspost #63789
HOW TO SEAL a BATORClick HERE HOW Many VENT HOLES do I NEED?post #24735 DIY WAFER thermostat with ASSEMBLYClick HERE
[COLOR=008080]Aquarium Cheap light to see in Bators[/COLOR] post #68412
[COLOR=000000]Cleaning Incubator and Equipment [/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]FUMIGATION OF HATCHING EGGS AND EQUIPMENT[/COLOR]post #48689[COLOR=008080]CLEAN INCUBATOR BEFORE AND AFTER USE[/COLOR]post #48689 COLLECTING, WASHING & EGG STORAGE
Washing, Cuticle, Sweating eggspost #63837
[COLOR=008080]How to Tell the Age of a Chicken[/COLOR] post #8494 Digital Egg Scale - Accurate Humidity Measurement and Egg SizingHERE ZONES OF COLD INJURY fro EMBRYONIC DEVELOPMENTpost #36213 PULLET EGGS???post #41984 UNDER CONSTRUCTION DOUBLE YOLKERS NOT suggested but they can hatch with assistancepost #46649BIRTH DEFECTS CONVERSATION AND INFO ON WORMERS!!post #25707post #25706 Abstract DIPPING EGGS IN VITAMIN Cpost #33828
[COLOR=008080]Pre-Incubation Warming of Chicken Eggs[/COLOR] post #65812
[COLOR=008080]Double fertilization spots?[/COLOR] post #5991
Example 57 out of 126 were declared fertile.
[COLOR=000000]Hatch Rates...[/COLOR]
Example 50 of the 57 fertile eggs hatched the % hatch=
[COLOR=000000]PURCHASING EGGS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way [/COLOR] [ATTACHMENT=959]HOWTOREQUESTANDSHIPEGGSSallySunshineWay.docx (940k. docx file)[/ATTACHMENT] [ATTACHMENT=971]Unpacking-USPSReimbursementsSHIPPEDEGGS.pdf (561k. pdf file)[/ATTACHMENT] [COLOR=008080]Results Shipped SS Way[/COLOR] post #63575 [COLOR=008080]cree[/COLOR] post #6321 [COLOR=FF0000]REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!! [/COLOR] post #4964 [COLOR=008080]Kristins horribly shipped eggs and hatch[/COLOR] post #57321[COLOR=008080]DO you have to be NPIP certified to ship hatching eggs? States/Agencies Info see[/COLOR]post #33884 [COLOR=008080]Great IDEAS to find eggs CHEAP! [/COLOR] post #775 [COLOR=008080]Julian date on trader Joe eggs understanding it![/COLOR] http://www.fs.fed.us/fire/partners/fepp/julian-calendar.pdf post #5098 [COLOR=008080]BYC Links for EGGS[/COLOR]........
[COLOR=FF0000]Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans![/COLOR]post #53845 [COLOR=FF0000]REQUEST HOW YOU WANT YOUR eggs SHIPPED PEOPLE!!!! [/COLOR] [COLOR=FF0000]HOW TO REQUEST AND SHIP EGGS Sally Sunshine Way...[/COLOR] [ATTACHMENT=960]HOWTOREQUESTANDSHIPEGGSSallySunshineWay.docx (940k. docx file)[/ATTACHMENT] [ATTACHMENT=972]Unpacking-USPSReimbursementsSHIPPEDEGGS.pdf (561k. pdf file)[/ATTACHMENT] [COLOR=008080]COLD? REQUESTING HEAT PACKS discussion[/COLOR] post #32219[COLOR=008080]Heat packs for shipping animals/etc[/COLOR]http://www.tsksupply.com/categories/Heat-Packs/ [COLOR=000000]INCUBATION[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]A MUST READ***** [COLOR=FF0000]INCUBATION QUESTIONS w/answers[/COLOR][/COLOR] post #85688
Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!post #53845 Important FIRST TIMER Incubation TIPS!post #66830 ***DUCK INCUBATION, QUAIL, GOOSE, PEAFOWL, GUINEA &
TURKEY Refer to individual sections below
INCUBATION CHARTS FOR ALL FOWL SPECIESCLICK HERE [COLOR=008080]Weighing Eggs, why and HOW TO![/COLOR]post #70097 INFO on The influence of high altitude on the hatching of chicken eggspost #37908 Egg Incubation Countdown/up Timer 21+ day digital TIMER, no more calendars!!click HERE Figure out your hatch times Hatch / Egg Turning ChartCLICK HERE TOTAL INCUBATION TIME HOURSshort hatch window is not the only factor to considerpost #39238 LINKS TO POST RESULTS ROUND OVAL = FEMALE MALE EGGSpost #7595 HOW to figure out FINAL HATCH RATE %post #4601 ANTS IN THE BATOR startpost #1884post #2031 Classroom Incubating Links for Slides Projects Programs Worksheets ETCpost #67049
[COLOR=008080]Incubation Seminar/Dr. K Bramwell Univ of Arkansas[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]Day 3 candle[/COLOR] post #40797[COLOR=008080] ****Embryonic Motor Behaviors embryo movement begin 3.5 days of incubatio[/COLOR]n Click HERE
[COLOR=FF0000]HOW and Why To TURN Eggs TURN MORE THAN 3 times a day!![/COLOR]post #22178 [COLOR=008080]Turning until day 18[/COLOR] post #51410 [COLOR=008080]UNDERSTANDING the CAM ~chorio-allantoic membrane[/COLOR][COLOR=333333] [/COLOR]post #22177 [COLOR=000000]VENTILATION (OXYGEN)[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Hatching at High Altitudes[/COLOR] post #37908O2 deprivation to day 10 of incubation followed by regular oxygen concentrations leads to stronger chicks post #33815[COLOR=FF0000]NEVER USE VENT holes as a means to Control HUMIDITY especially during HATCH DAYS![/COLOR] THERMOMETERS, HYGROMETERS & CALIBRATION
Celsius to Fahrenheit (ºC to ºF) conversion calculatorclick HERE Thermo/hygro suggestionspost #13998 Brinsea Incubator Thermometersclick HERE Strombergs Thermometers clickHEREHygrometers clickHERE Digital Thermo/Hygros clickHere Hova-Bator GQF Incubator Thermometer / Hygrometer (Wet Bulb) 3018 post #32892 HEAT SINKS/ Stones/Pebbles ADD THEM TO STYRO!post #43903 ziplock water wiggler for estimating internal egg temps with a probe thermometer post #115296 [COLOR=CC6600]Calibration is a MUST:HOW TO CALIBRATEpost #9068[/COLOR]
[COLOR=000000]WHY do we need less humidity to get the best weight loss for colored hatching eggs during incubation?[/COLOR][COLOR=008080] [/COLOR] post #36320 [COLOR=008080]Reducing humidity during the first 18 days of incubation[/COLOR] post #109266[COLOR=008080]KEEPING MOLD and BACTERIAL from growing in water WELLS during incubation[/COLOR]post #1644 [COLOR=008080]Humidity pumps DIY ETC[/COLOR] post #79960 [COLOR=008080]TIPS n TRICKS to raising humidity in incubators[/COLOR] post #42512 [COLOR=008080]Humidity pumps DIY ETC[/COLOR] post #79960 [COLOR=000000]LOCKDOWN, DAY 18, CANDLES, PIPS, ZIPS[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]*IMPORTANT INFO= TIMELINES PIPS ZIPS!!! & MARKING AIR CELLS DAY 18, DRAW DOWN,INTERNAL PIP, EXTERNAL PIP, and ZIPPING post #35770 [/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]DAY 18 CANDLE IMAGES/VIDEOS: [/COLOR] post #41176 [COLOR=008080]Day 18 Ancona Duck[/COLOR] post #84853 [COLOR=008080]Day 21 Ancona Duck[/COLOR] post #85709[COLOR=008080]Day 24 Ancona Duck [/COLOR]post #87139 [COLOR=008080]FIVE VIDEOS show Draw Down and Internals[/COLOR] post #44701 [COLOR=008080]DAY 18 DIS CANDLES[/COLOR] post #43401 [COLOR=008080]Incubation CHICK FIRST AID KIT Supplies[/COLOR] post #71640[COLOR=FF0000]Pips and ZIPS ARE NOT THE SAME PATIENCE is a MUST![/COLOR] [COLOR=FF0000]DONT PICK THE PIPS![/COLOR] post #24611 [COLOR=FF0000]TIMELINE of a silkie HATCHING! NOTE HOW LONG IT TOOK FROM INTERNAL TO ZIPPING[/COLOR] post #33770 [COLOR=FF0000]TIMELINE OF A POLISH HATCHING QUICK HATCHOUT![/COLOR] post #46572VIDEO of zip and hatch AT:[COLOR=0000FF]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyO3YwrsJPg [/COLOR][COLOR=008080]DO my Air cells look ok Day 18?[/COLOR]post #31971 [COLOR=008080]LOWERING TEMPS lockdown IS NOT NECESSARY but is said to AID THE HATCHING PROCESS[/COLOR] post #2898 [COLOR=008080]Hatching Behavior & How the chick Comes out of the Shell[/COLOR] post #34865 [COLOR=008080]YES a chick can chirp when its not pipped internally![/COLOR] post #20506 [COLOR=000000]**** [/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]TIPS adding/Maintaining HUMDITY[/COLOR][COLOR=000000]SEE HUMIDITY SECTION ABOVE ~[/COLOR][COLOR=008080] [/COLOR] **** SEE VENTILATION (OXYGEN) SECTION ABOVE !! [COLOR=008080]TIPS KEEP CHICKS SEPARATE IN THE HATCHER [/COLOR] post #44668[COLOR=008080]Empty shells - a valuable source of information[/COLOR] click HERE [COLOR=008080]This is what am EGG from a good chick hatch looks like! your goal[/COLOR] post #14673[COLOR=008080]HOW to figure out HATCH RATE[/COLOR]post #4601[COLOR=000000]Hatching videossee aboveVIDEO SECTION[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]Chicken Clucking playlist for incubation by Venymae link is Here[/COLOR] Chicken Clucking Playlist [COLOR=008080]Hens Clucking Vs LOUD Music effects incubation Emrbyos[/COLOR] post #71835 [COLOR=008080] [/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]Euthanasia[/COLOR]
[COLOR=FF0000]Step by Step Guide to ASSISTED Hatching -[/COLOR]Click HEREWhy to ALLOW ducklings to hatch on its own post #110858[COLOR=008080]NOPE she is not ready for you to assist yet[/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000]![/COLOR]post #24835 now is she? post #24850[COLOR=008080]MALPOSITIONS /PIPS WRONG END are the first to pip and the last DIS after hatch[/COLOR]post #19606[COLOR=008080]Malposition (pipped wrong end) chick most times will hatch! VIDEO[/COLOR]post #22241 [COLOR=008080]A WRONG END PIP IS BOTH INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL Pip! [/COLOR] post #518454 VIDEO HATCHING post #54642 [COLOR=FF0000]DUCK ASSISTING VIA CANDLES[/COLOR] post #79130 [COLOR=008080]assisting, Brown spot Duck egg malposition[/COLOR] post #87959 [COLOR=008080]Casportspony Scovy malpositions assists[/COLOR] post #43908[COLOR=008080]STUFF OOZING from pip[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]begin[/COLOR] post #19606[COLOR=008080]Images normal chick pip position[/COLOR]post #19606 [COLOR=008080]STUCK ZIPPING WHAT DO I DO?[/COLOR][COLOR=0000FF]bottom of[/COLOR] post #35770 [COLOR=008080]YES a chick can chirp when its not pipped internally![/COLOR] post #20506 [COLOR=008080]Heathers Call DUCK assist[/COLOR] post #43902 [COLOR=008080]It has a bump on its head! What The Heck Is A Vaulted Skull?[/COLOR] post #46616 [COLOR=000000]CHICKS Wet? Sticky? Stuck? Yellow Gel? What did I do Wrong?[/COLOR] post #25379
[COLOR=008080]Swollen abdomen? A WET chick? or infection[/COLOR] post #24810 [COLOR=008080]Eggtopsy possible Sticky chick[/COLOR] post #35087 [COLOR=000000]Navels, Umbilical, Yolk Sack and Abdomen Issues:[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]NAVELS She HATCHED! But what's with her butt?[/COLOR]post #25012 [COLOR=008080]Umbilical Gunk aka Strings [/COLOR]post #25012[COLOR=FF0000]Help I have a BLEEDER! NAVEL looks like a Vagina? begin (this is gonna be a long one)[/COLOR]post #5159 [COLOR=FF0000]Yolk Sac problems:[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]Duckling was high risk for yolk sac infection, dipped it's umbilicus in chlorhexidine and gave it Baytril.[/COLOR] post #35400 [COLOR=B22222]Chlorhexidine[/COLOR] post #35432[COLOR=008080]MY CHICK has yolk hanging and is dragging in the bator HELP! begin[/COLOR] post #15672[COLOR=008080]Mushy Chick Disease YOLK SACK INFECTION: [/COLOR]Mushy Chick Disease [COLOR=008080]THIS IS NOT PASTY BUTT its Umbilical[/COLOR] post #4077 [COLOR=008080]Look ok or not fully absorbed yolk?? Begin[/COLOR] post #4578 [COLOR=008080]Chick hatched with foot through yolk sack[/COLOR] post #68442 [COLOR=000000]Eggs UNHATCHED at end of Incubation[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]Chick Air Sac Rupture image of sacs[/COLOR] post #54382 [COLOR=FF0000]MY EGGS ARE COOKING TEMP TOO HIGH HELP[/COLOR] post #14649[COLOR=008080]TEMP SPIKE DID I KILL THEM! read bottom [/COLOR]post #8814 [COLOR=008080]Hens dont always kick out bad eggs BUT GOOD ones too![/COLOR] post #18059 [COLOR=008080]HOW do I know when my chick as turned the corner?[/COLOR] post #15777 [COLOR=008080]Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks[/COLOR] post #3876 [COLOR=008080]USING SPONGE WEDGES[/COLOR][COLOR=008080] [/COLOR]post #4473 [COLOR=008080]Chick and Chicken Vitamins HAVE SOME ON HAND[/COLOR] post #61039 [COLOR=008080]"yawning" thing like a silent crow. Any ideas or should I not be so concerned? NOPE normal[/COLOR] post #7522[COLOR=008080]Injured Chick stuck to momma hen sore broken wing[/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR]post #24212 post #24748 post #24751 [COLOR=008080]chick that has a larger than normal head and it's feet are not under it right[/COLOR] post #24680post #24687 [COLOR=008080]Funky nodule on nostril on a chick Saris[/COLOR] post #28995 post #31237 [COLOR=008080]lump on the side of my chicken's neck?[/COLOR] (its just a Full crop) HERE [COLOR=008080]READ ABOUT Little Crocket who spent her first 36 hours in a padded country crock dish[/COLOR] post #1993post #2062[COLOR=008080]Momma Hen Booted egg out of nest, SAVE The chick Video Assist A THANK you video from Maxine[/COLOR] [COLOR=0000FF]post #1864https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...earn-chat-meet-new-friends/1860#post_16101588[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]What To do with those chicks hatched?[/COLOR] post #2201 [COLOR=008080]Discussion of chicks that just dont grow begin[/COLOR] post #3626 &https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...not-grow-update-hes-found-a-forever-home/0_30[COLOR=008080]Partial Comb and Wattle Removal in chicks[/COLOR]post #36708 [COLOR=008080]HOW Sally Sunshine Euthanize chicks only for the strong at heart[/COLOR] post #15697 [COLOR=008080]Freaky looking chick with two crops, two vents four feet and three legs:[/COLOR] post #41295 post #41297 [COLOR=008080]Wry Neck [/COLOR] post #60013 [COLOR=008080]Cross BEAK Scissor BEAK[/COLOR] post #74787
[COLOR=FF0000]***DUCK, QUAIL, GOOSE, PEAFOWL, GUINEA, TURKEY Refer to individual sections below[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]How to evaluate Chicks after Hatch![/COLOR] post #56572[COLOR=008080]WHEN to start feeding CHICK after HATCH![/COLOR]post #4657 [COLOR=008080]Chick Pro and Pre Biotic vit cheap! I swear by them! 1st & 2 wks then ACV see[/COLOR] post #1409 [COLOR=008080]Chick and Chicken Vitamins HAVE SOME ON HAND[/COLOR] post #61039 [COLOR=008080]Raising Baby Chicks[/COLOR] CLICK HERE [COLOR=008080]New CHICKS Care Links & When to begin feeding [/COLOR]post #22550 [COLOR=008080]First 60 days of Raising baby Chicks[/COLOR] click HERE [COLOR=008080]Socializing Baby chicks[/COLOR] CLICK HERE[COLOR=008080]How to Spot Problems with Newly Hatched Chicks[/COLOR]post #22550 [COLOR=008080]More Problems of Newly Hatched Chicks[/COLOR] http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-spot-problems-of-newly-hatched-chicks.html [COLOR=008080]All about COCCI Prevention Vaccines TREATMENTS Poo Samples [/COLOR]post #70896 [COLOR=008080]How to Prevent Chicks from Getting Coccidiosis[/COLOR] post #4779 [COLOR=008080]Quick lesson on pasty butt[/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000] [/COLOR]post #4657 [COLOR=008080]Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks[/COLOR] post #3876 [COLOR=008080]USING SPONGE WEDGES[/COLOR][COLOR=008080] [/COLOR]post #4473 [COLOR=008080]CHICK TEMPERATURE Measurement vs. observation: recognizing the comfort status of day old chicks http://www.pasreform.com/academy/fr...ing-the-comfort-status-of-day-old-chicks.html[/COLOR]post #20918 [COLOR=008080]HOW do I know when my chick as turned the corner?[/COLOR] post #15777 [COLOR=000000]BROODERS & HEATING[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]LEDs and CFLs are better for light (less electric cost)[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]Ceramic emitters. They last longer and if they break, they don't get glass all over. 25-250 watt. I use 150s.[/COLOR] http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-250W-11...w-Plant-Lamp-Pet-Reptile-Heater-/231394987292[COLOR=008080]Smaller watt ceramic heat emitters if brooding indoors. They come in 50-300 watt sizes.[/COLOR]Click HERE [COLOR=000000]Heating pads, Caves, Plates[/COLOR]
[*] [COLOR=008080]TIPS on setting QUAIL eggs in turner[/COLOR] beginspost #31912 LocalYokel improvised cups/water bottle tops/ hatch= place in small dish damp papertowels.
[COLOR=008080]Keeping duck water clean[/COLOR] post #47877
[COLOR=008080]Casportspony Scovy malpositions assists[/COLOR] post #43908
[COLOR=008080]Heathers Call DUCK assist[/COLOR] post #43902
[COLOR=008080]Duckling was high risk for yolk sac infection, dipped it's umbilicus in chlorhexidine and gave it Baytril.[/COLOR] post #35400 [COLOR=B22222]Chlorhexidine[/COLOR] post #35432
[COLOR=008080]FIVE Apps To Make You A Better Chicken Keeper ARTICLE CLICK HERE[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]FREE Homesteading, Farm & Animal Recording Keeping Forms [/COLOR] https://homesteadapps.com/app/free/forms/Monthly Poultry Record Sheet Form record daily feed rations, bedding, eggs, and other information for poultry [COLOR=000000]Spreadsheets/online places[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]*NOTE*: Silkie rooster over purebred hens will usually produce sexlinks. Females will have dark skin, and the males will have light skin.[/COLOR] post #124541[COLOR=008080]Benny's green egg color genetics eggsplanation[/COLOR] [COLOR=000000]PROCESSING[/COLOR]
[COLOR=008080]Caponize your roosters[/COLOR] How to caponize a rooster Warning Graphic pics & post #39979 VIDEO post #54418http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/1051/leg-health-in-large-broilers/ [COLOR=008080]Joeys Tabletop Plucker[/COLOR]post #101813 post #101822 [quote url="[URL]https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1046313/incubating-w-friends-come-hatch-learn-chat-meet-new-friends/41900_100#post_16457499[/URL]"] [/quote] [COLOR=000000]Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case! I am not a vet and nor is anyone else that I know of.[/COLOR]
I love my goats too. It is just hard to pick a picture or two. I know I posted the ones on the llama before so I left them out.
Sorry you lost so many eggs. How are your goats?
Banti my quote wont let me comment its all jibber......
I think lockdown for my few that made it is tomorrow, I will set serama and some pure BCM pullet eggs then too. Perhaps try brahma since the last batch failed and the lady still wants chicks, we shall see
I don't really do lockdown per se. If I did, I would have needed to do so yesterday but I have other eggs to turn. Later today, I'll put the ones due to hatch in pedigree bags and tomorrow, I'll add water when I turn the later set one last time till I pull the chicks.
It never cost us much to keep horses. Were we bad people for never using a vet or medicating them?
We kept a small herd of about 8 or so horses. We had a barn but they didn't use it. We had their hooves trimmed a couple times but that's it. Occasionally gave a little grain but they had 100 acres to roam for food.
We had Quarterhorse, American Saddlebred, Tennessee Walker, Appaloosa, POAs, Welsh pony and a Shetland.
i like calls and aussie spots, ravyn has call eggs that need to go, we can probably find you any breed you want though lol
hmmm i wil try again
horses are not hard
lol, i spend $20 every other month for grain, trade for hay, spring shots are $200 including coggins, and farrier every 8-10wks for $45 (she's barefoot) and she would love to just have a run in shed, but do have a barn for hay storage, used to just keep it in the garage
My last foray into chickens was for the manure. I used to get manure from a stable nearby and they closed. I still needed manure so was going to get 6 pullets to satisfy that need. I came home with 10. Realizing they also laid eggs and produced meat, within 3 months I had 100 chickens.