INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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I've never weighed either. I marked air cells, but never used them to gauge humidity. I always followed the formula: 30% for 18 days, then 65%. Barnyard chicks always popped, but the sussex were always malpo or DIS. wish I could hatch them again to see what the problem actually was. Probably low humidity, because the egg shells always seemed a bit porous/thin. I always had a few stinkers.

Anyway, with the honas I wanted to be a little more scientific. Not a big deal. I think the AC look pretty good despite weight loss.


Another thing I will say AGAIN!!

THE CANDLE DAYS 7 14 18 ARE NOT SET IN STONE!!!

Candle 3 eggs every other day or so AFTER day 10 and follow the air cells a bit CLOSER visually!! You will find you have more time to catch issues and adjust humidity!!
 
@campingshaws I loose much more weight than 13 14% again everyone on here that has weighed with us had wet goopy jelly chicks.
@BENNY

LET me say this.....

If your hatching shipped eggs I personally feel weighing them is useless, you have NOT A CLUE how old or how much they have already lost. Also air cells vary so much with shipped eggs.

So do our own eggs, when hatcheries incubate they typically would set pretty close to age eggs and same breed! We need to ALWAYS REMEMBER TO THINK OUT OF THAT COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIES STANDARDS! I realize I have that written in the article, its information that is standard. I DON'T WEIGH EGGS!!! When I did I lost 15+ percent per egg! and I weighed individually! look at everyone that weighed so far on the thread and had 13 percent weight loss and had big wet yellow goopy chicks! I dont think anyone that weighed had shown us a good clean hatch, PLEASE pull the posts if we had! would love to read them again!

We have many more variables than that of hatcheries, BREED alone changes the rules! Do you all remember the discussion on how the egg shell is created, and how the colors are put on some eggs? example why marans and other dark eggs and green eggs will need lower incubation temps to loose weight. We mix breeds in the bator all the time! We set clutches of eggs meaning we have different weight loss before incubation therefor weighing the tray must give us an average, but the average of what? @ChickenCanoe needs input here as I believe he weighs and not sure if he does several breeds at one time etc. I refuse to weigh eggs because I hatch all sorta eggs old new shipped, different breeds.

So these are my THOUGHTS from experience with incubation, I DO NOT WEIGH, and I dont have faith in weighing either because of the reasons above.

so should I go hide now?

Lolz, a well thought out informational post, why hide?

FWIW, Sally, I weigh. I don't draw air sacs. So, as a testimony to weighing as a method of hatching, you can follow my settings (I am setting 100 eggs every 24 days this year). Setting #1 had 15 deaths (early and late) out of 66 viable eggs. My weight loss wandered around far too much (I was as far off as 0.20% to -0.67% from ideal) and too dramatically.

This setting, weight loss has been way more consistent, from 0.26% to -0.30%, and the swings have been far more gradual than setting #1. We will see in the next couple of days whether that has made much of a difference.

I agree that there are very many variables, but the one thing about marking air sacs is that there is no good way in comparing what you have to what others say is good. Whereas, weighing actually lets you make a 1:1 comparison. I'm not saying there is a 1:1 comparison (say, breed X versus breed Y), but you can at least compare it to a goal. I can't take a picture of my air sac line and overlay it on some ideal egg...
 
I've never weighed either. I marked air cells, but never used them to gauge humidity. I always followed the formula: 30% for 18 days, then 65%. Barnyard chicks always popped, but the sussex were always malpo or DIS. wish I could hatch them again to see what the problem actually was. Probably low humidity, because the egg shells always seemed a bit porous/thin. I always had a few stinkers.


Anyway, with the honas I wanted to be a little more scientific. Not a big deal. I think the AC look pretty good despite weight loss.

They look great, Ms. Camping. Im still waiting for my incubator to regulate.... 102 right now.. way to high for little quail eggs. :(


You're so close! I fiddled with my temp the other day and I should've changed the environment instead. :/ it ended up running low all night. I think I've finally got it settled.
 
Oh I hope they are fertile!!!  YAY lockdown!!  bators are still holding well? 



Shipped eggs..... 100.5-101 calibrated temps, typically LF eggs starting with a 30% humidity for my fan speeds/bators

it depends on the age of them, and what air cells are like. I like to set them as soon as possible as they are already old when they get here.

I candle upright when I get them and mark air cells immediately.  Incubate upright.

Then I let them get to room temp where the bators are, and I will set after 6-12 hours if the air cells are pretty good, and start turning the next day.


HOWEVER, the ones that are wiggly jiggly loose I let sit a day or two not turning in the incubator,

and the rollers I also set in the bator,  I dont touch at all until day 10 and decide what to do with them if they are alive.


ONLY candle from above, and try not to lift them or move them, dont go candling any shipped egg on its side or moving it upside down!
its best to keep them in the bator to candle.  And I only really do a candle at day 7-10 depending on the shape.

Is all the above the same procedure for shipped DUCK EGGS?? THANK YOU
 
@campingshawsdid the lady with the attacked hen disappear?
@Sally SunshineHi, glad you are feeling better. Do you know if Dick is npip? MO law requires that for out of state eggs or testing.
 
Hi people.....just popping on to say howdy....I will be on later...I made a few decisions I want to ask about.
But I'm too busy at the moment to stay....hope all you are great today!
I have a friend on another thread who's having some worried about her health...so all who are healthy today be thankful......because it's really the only thing that matters....talk later......Phil
 
I've never weighed either. I marked air cells, but never used them to gauge humidity. I always followed the formula: 30% for 18 days, then 65%. Barnyard chicks always popped, but the sussex were always malpo or DIS. wish I could hatch them again to see what the problem actually was. Probably low humidity, because the egg shells always seemed a bit porous/thin. I always had a few stinkers.


Anyway, with the honas I wanted to be a little more scientific. Not a big deal. I think the AC look pretty good despite weight loss.



Another thing I will say AGAIN!!

THE CANDLE DAYS 7 14 18  [COLOR=FF0000]ARE NOT SET IN STONE!!! [/COLOR]

Candle 3 eggs every other day or so AFTER day 10 and follow the air cells a bit CLOSER visually!!  You will find you have more time to catch issues and adjust humidity!! 


You're saying that for everyone else, right? Because you know I'm a chronic meddler... :oops:
 
Im out of breath.. the boys came home and said two big dogs where trying to get in our yard. They were beautiful... no tags. one was a pretty boxer and the other a black lab. very sweet, Oly girl scared them away from the fence line though.. dont need dogs eating my birds.
 
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