Well, three chicks hatched today! Two blue links and the Ameri-Flower! The SBEL is still pipped and another BSL are pipped. 
Pictures coming soon.

Pictures coming soon.
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Well, three chicks hatched today! Two blue links and the Ameri-Flower! The SBEL is still pipped and another BSL are pipped.
Pictures coming soon.
I think so but I wouldn't mind knowing more. Humidity is variable based one air cells, correct?
start reading, get your thermo hygros calibrated (tells you how in that article) tells you how to collect and save eggs, and all that good stuff in the article. You are correct, start with your own eggs, sell them off on CL or something, and practice practice practice, and then try getting shipped eggs not too far away though. shipped eggs can be tough even for a seasoned hatcher. but you have to understand the basics. and that article has the basics
Setting fresh eggs and egg quality see hatching 101 article
Humidity
Humidity is NOT A SET NUMBER, you need it YES! However, you use it as a tool to "adjust" egg weight loss during incubation. We candle on days 7,10,14,18 To WATCH WEIGHT LOSS IN EVERY EGG! An EGG MUST lose approximately 13-14% of its weight during the incubation process. THIS IS YOUR GOAL!! You can monitor this by marking Air cells and also by weighing.is never a set number, its about the required weight loss that the embryo/chick needs to loose to be able to turn and pip inside the egg, its about optimum chick quality and growth size inside that egg, too much humidity can bring a mushy wet chick that cannot absorb its yolk correctly and has excess fluids and sometimes cannot turn to hatch it is that large of a chick.
With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the HORIZONTAL egg).
CALIBRATION! YES! It’s IMPORTANT! Calibrate the thermometer/s you are using for your Incubator. I use 3 thermometers! You need to make sure your thermometer is reading correctly, Even one degree may cause serious problems with your hatch! see HATCHING 101 for how to calibrate
Ventilation: Oxygen requirements will increases during development and during hatching never cover vent holes during hatch time.
BE PREPARED TO LOOSE ELECTRIC have a back up plan for emergencies see hatching 101 article for suggestions
SHIPPED EGGS = CHANGE OF PLANS see hatching 101 article
https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/hatching-eggs-101
Batch 1 had day 7 on 11/3 Day 14 at the strike of midnight tonight!
Batch 2's day 7 will be 11/14... and that is the batch that had 2 sappy eggs.
And yes, he is still in charge of the humidity. Still has it in the 40's, haven't seen much change in the aircells from day 7. Yes, I have been grumping about it. We'll see with tonight's candle of the 3 remaining eggs. From batch 1.
Oh, and bator #2 will be here today so I can get that set up and running for the hatcher.
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so that leaves two to pip yet? did you candle those two?
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