INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

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Shalom to al the freinds EYS! :hugs
Report on my first setting in my DIY bator:
Today they entered to lock down.
2/8 didn't make it
6/8 Air cells looking good, and all of them are moving! So something is cooking inside! :)
Have some problem to elevate the humidity to 70-75%, Taking some masers hope they will do !
 
Shalom to al the freinds EYS!
hugs.gif

Report on my first setting in my DIY bator:
Today they entered to lock down.
2/8 didn't make it
6/8 Air cells looking good, and all of them are moving! So something is cooking inside!
smile.png

Have some problem to elevate the humidity to 70-75%, Taking some masers hope they will do !
why problem to elevate humidity?
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Is it too late to increase or I can try and get it up a tad and expect the hatch date to extend? It stays at 99 for most of the time but does drop to a low of 98.2 before the heater kicks on again
Not too late, hopefully. Just increment it a bit for now.

Thank you everyone for the well-wishes. I'm back online just in time to see that I'm going to be featured on the site Wrapunzel! Pretty stoked.
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That's cool. Keep us updated.

it's easier said than done I have gone months without being able see my niece beacause I stand my ground with him. In the end it only hurts her. I am the only "mother" figure she has ever had.
That's tough. Hang in there.

Hello to all. I have a hen that has been sitting. Yesterday 1 chick popped out from under her. She has not gotten off nest yet to get it to drink. I think this may be her first time to hatch. If it is same hen that hatched a few months ago, then its her 2nd time (and that did not go well). How long do I let her stay on nest with at least one chick if she doesnt take it down for a drink? Any advise greatly appreciated.
She hasn't gotten off the nest because she likely detects there are more chicks coming. This is a critical time. Don't mess with her. This is a hen's lockdown time for those BYC types. A chick doesn't need to eat or drink the first couple days for the very reason that even broody hatches can be staggered.
I trust a broody hen way more than any intervention a human can do. This may be hers but it isn't chicken's first rodeo. They and their ancestors have been hatching successfully for millions of years without human intervention.
She'll come off the nest to care for the live chicks either when she detects no more are coming or before the chick/s are desperately in need of food and water.

Be glad you don't have to do anything. Make sure starter food and water are available close by in appropriate containers that she can show them. They like to pick up food and set it back down to show the chicks what to eat. You may want to have a space that only has food on it even if you just clear a place on the floor and spread food on it.

So this is my first incubation experience. I am on Day 7. Looks like my egg turner got of its rail sometime in last 18 hours....not sure exactly when it happened but I always check the egg positions and noted twice in a row looked like they had not moved (bedtime last pm and first thing this am). Thought maybe randomly at same place in cycle. Novice! Just found the problem. So, I understand this is a critical time period. Am I up a creek without a paddle? How can I know if the batch has been affected? Praying I have not lost this whole group.

Thank you!

Relax. Early in incubation is a critical time for turning but a day won't hurt.

Quote: If she were mine and I decided to use Safeguard I think I would give 0.23ml per pound for five days in a row, that will treat all worms, but if you want to treat just the large roundworms, give it once and repeat in 10 days.

-Kathy
"fenbenSafeguard Will treat large roundworms, cecal worms, capillary worms, gape worms, gizzard worms, possible some species of tape worms". It will not treat eye worms, might not treat oviduct flukes

Internal parasites (endoparasites, worms, helminths)

Roundworms (nematodes)

  • Acuaria spp ~ Dispharynx ~ Synhimanthus spp. $. Gizzard worms. Gizzard, esophagus and proventriculus. Can be a problem in endemic regions, mainly in birds kept outdoors.
  • Ascaridia spp. $$$. Chicken roundworms. Small intestine. A serious problem worldwide, also in confined operations.
  • Capillaria spp. $$. Hairworms. Crop, esophagus, small intestine, large intestine.
  • Heterakis spp. $$$$. Cecal worms. Cecum. Probably the most threatening worms in all kind of poultry operations worldwide.
  • Oxyspirura spp. $. Fowl eyeworms. Eyes. Usually a secondary problem in individual birds kept outdoors.
  • Strongyloides spp. $$. Threadworms, pinworms. Small intestine. Can be a serious problem worldwide.
  • Subulura spp. $. Cecum and small intestine. A secondary problem in birds kept outdoors worldwide.
  • Syngamus trachea. $$. Gapeworms. Trachea, bronchi. A serious problem in birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.
  • Tetrameres spp. $. Proventriculus and esophagus. Can be a problem in endemic regions, mainly in outdoor opertaions.
Tapeworms (cestodes)

  • Amoebotaenia cuneata = sphenoides. $. Small intestine. Usually a secondary issue in most poultry operations
  • Choanotaenia infundibulum. $. Small intestine. Usually not a major issue in modern poultry operations.
  • Davainea proglottina. $. Minute tapeworms. Small intestine. Can be a problem in birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.
  • Raillietina spp. $$. Small intestine. The most frequent tapeworm in poultry, however normally not a major problem.
Flukes (trematodes, flatworms)

  • Prosthogonimus spp. $. Oviduct flukes. Oviduct, bursa of Fabricius. Can be a serious threat for birds kept outdoors in endemic regions.






Capillary worms









This chick had 3 cc Safeguard in the water:


Those are roundworms, the easiest of all the worms to kill.

-Kathy
Okay, so I put a pea sized amount of wormer in some water it and it dissolved pretty good, still a couple of small flakes that I couldn't break up but she's drinking it, hopefully she'll get enough in her that it will help and she'll want to eat more than meal worms and scraps from one of our chickens we're roasting tonight. I'll give her a bit more tomorrow maybe if I can tempt her to eat.
You need to give her 1.15 ml orally (4-5 pea size amounts), not in the water.

-Kathy

Clear tote, that's a great idea!

The dosage measurements are for 10% paste. ie there is 100mg of active ingredient for 1g (1000mg) of paste.

So...

0.5cc of paste ~= 0.5g of paste

0.5g of paste = 500mg of paste

500mg of (10%) paste contains 50mg of active ingredient

A dosage of 50mg active ingredient per 1kg body weight

=500mg of (10%) paste per 1kg body weight

=0.5g of paste per 1kg body weight

=0.5cc of paste per 1kg body weight
If your bird weighs 2kg then you would need 1cc (or 1g) of paste.
Quote:
Yes. Just take a big bite out of a fresh one.

Fecals can be done at home, which might be an option for some:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1047614/doing-fecal-floats-at-home

-Kathy
X2
All one needs that they may not already have is a fair microscope.

...

I personally wont take a fecal to the vet myself lol

I want something that is easy to use as well

Something in water is always easiest, but we should have options for all people and all treatments that will work.

People dont want to and wont read or understand most of the stuff we discuss. they want to know what to do period.

I think the best thing to do is have a visual chart that will show SOME types of worms, and then treatments below it.

and a preventative if its possible.

I personally do the ivermectin and fenben follow up after 10 days and for 4 days as a preventative. every 6 months, I was doing every three but that gets out of hand. Although its a pain I get internals and externals.


Woo, skipped about 400 pages.... I'm starting to think that non of my Bielefelder eggs are going to develop. I know it's only day 3 but I see no veins in even the lighter colored eggs..... I'm hoping they are just slow to show because they were shipped.
Have patience.
day 3 is way too early to candle IMHO
I set the eggs, rely on temp and humidity to be accurate and don't do anything else unless they leak or stink till I pull all that don't hatch by day 23/24.
 
no, 33 is not too low until day 7, can you use a smaller water container?

I can!
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Have patience.
day 3 is way too early to candle IMHO
I set the eggs, rely on temp and humidity to be accurate and don't do anything else unless they leak or stink till I pull all that don't hatch by day 23/24.

I know, maybe I'll get there someday. But since my candling is relatively simple (I don't even move the egg out of the tray) I do it for fun.
 
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