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Incubators Anonymous

are you doing a 45 turn or less? I forgot to ask if you checked temps at the bottom of your eggs as well, your using cartons and they do restrict air flow around that bator

The book I've been putting under them is about 1" so I would say in the 30-45 range. I haven't checked the bottom yet, i'll do that this evening.
 
I put 34 eggs into lockdown(tossed out 6 quitters) 13 of them are sex link EE eggs that were shipped the rest are just mixes from my flock. Hoping for a good hatch, my last hatch was 58%.
 
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A. The resolution is 0.1 the hysteresis is 1 degree per instruction manual I also looked at the other models manafactured by orimay electrical company

B. You will be surprised at the accuracy of the temp probe on the device. The brand I use measures ice water at 0.1C and boiling water at 99.9 everytime straight out of the box.

C I did not mean to place the temp probe of the controlling thermostat into the wigglie, I meant a seperate device. As I am uncomfortable with the swing of the WILLHI in the C version, I wont use them for incubation but as I have several, I use them just for thermometers.

D There are threads where people have used heating pads with not so good results

E I made a simple conversion for my LG



Works like a charm now. The swing even with a 0.5F (0.3C) hysteresis on the bator is not as significant as with the dial band way more controllable. I set this one at 38.2 to get an internal egg temp of 38.

It has 24 developing Lav Orps in it wight now. A 20 buck conversion turned a crappy bator into something equivalent of a $150 genesis.


F The science of incubating is fascinating to me. There are some great sites for research info. The art of putting it to practice to get a better hatch rate is exhilarating

G. Coated masonite works really well on the inside of a bator when it comes to cleaning.

I have used 2 layers of coated masonite with 3/4 foam board in between with great results. my environment has no more than a 10C swing from night to day or summer to winter so mega thick insulation is not that important - just enough to stop wasting money heating room air.

On answere D: There is an incubator that uses contact heating. It is an inflated air bag not water. It is VERY expensive and is usually used by zoos for the most rare of eggs. I think it may be from the Brinsea company.(Swiss cheese brain you know.
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On answere D: There is an incubator that uses contact heating. It is an inflated air bag not water. It is VERY expensive and is usually used by zoos for the most rare of eggs. I think it may be from the Brinsea company.(Swiss cheese brain you know.
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This one. http://www.brinsea.com/products/z6.htm

For that money I could fill a room with cabinet incubators.
 
Has anyone moved their eggs on day 18 from the incubator to a hatcher? How would someone go about doing it? I am planning on setting up a 10 (or 20?) gallon tank with shavings in it and a heat bulb (do I need to use a red one, or is a regular white one fine?) and a himidity thing (meshed water dish or something similar). The reason im doing it this was is because my incubator doesnt have a window- its an old mini fridge, and the eggs are about 10 inches up in the air.. and I have turkey eggs in there along with the chicken eggs.

any ideas and advice is much appreciated!

I have 4 hovabators, 3 for incubating and 1 for hatching. so yeah I move my eggs on day 18-19 to the hatcher every time. I use egg flats to hatch in, air cell up.
 
My turn to time in on turning.

One of the great things about forums is the exchange of information. One of the problems with forums is the exchange of information. Myths get perpetuauted.

Shipped eggs have the same development as a non shipped egg right? So why not turn them when the most critical time to turn is days 1-3? If the air cell is completely dislodged and rolling from one end to the other the chance of that egg hatching is just about zero so trying to "save it" is a lost cause. If you must - do it before you incubate. Once you start warming those eggs, start turning them.

if you have a 2 foot long incubator and you are "tilting" it, you need to raise the edge a full 2 feet in height to reach 45o. If you tip a cooler bator 45 on its other axis, it will probably be dangerously close to tipping over.

By raising it 1 foot you will be only getting 22o

A hovabator or LG needs to be raised 15 inches or so. Now thats a big stack of phone books or Bibles to rest the hopes of your hatch on.

There are loads of studies who make a living from hatching eggs. While we hate the mushy quality broilers and bland eggs they sell in the supermarket, sometimes its good to ask the experts.

And remember - most broiler eggs are shipped. The following site has information on that too. I just received a case of eggs from Aviagen that holds 300 turkey eggs. I only ordere 40 but this is their small box. And guess what? They ship loads of less 1500 by USPS as a routine.

Quote: http://www.pasreform.com/academy/frequently-asked-questions/incubation/26-relevance-of-turning.html
 

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